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I'm thinking of running as much WMO through my 2000 F250 7.3 as I can do without having any reliability issues. I use the truck for work and can't be stranded. I've been reading a lot of threads on the basics and it seems that its as simple as obtaining WMO from a trusty source, filtering it through a few filters (10 micron then 2 micron sound good?), and mixing it into my tank.
I'm planning on making some friends at local mechanic shops that will let me come collect some oil on a fairly regular basis. I figure this is my best bet for getting the cleanest oil free of coolant & brake fluid. I'm thinking of buying a 12v powered pump and transferring the fluid into some 55 gallon drums in the back of my truck. From there, I'll transfer the oil into some kind of filtering system. After than, I can pump it back into the truck, or mix it somehow. Those last few steps are where I'm a little fuzzy and need some recommendations.
I need some help getting set up, so recommendations on where to source the following elements would be greatly appreciated:
Don't kid yourself on a 12 volt pump to move WMO. I tried, I lost. Get a used engine oil pump from a garage and run it with a drill. On the pick up side just cut the pick up tube off with a saw, leave enough pipe to add a hose and clamp, the block side of the pump you will need to tap and add a nipple to also add a hose and clamp. It will last forever.
Don't kid yourself on a 12 volt pump to move WMO. I tried, I lost. Get a used engine oil pump from a garage and run it with a drill. On the pick up side just cut the pick up tube off with a saw, leave enough pipe to add a hose and clamp, the block side of the pump you will need to tap and add a nipple to also add a hose and clamp. It will last forever.
Check out pabiodiesel.com.
Good luck
Armstrong
Thanks for the recommendation.
Checked out pabiodiesel and they've got some great setups for filtering. If I had the time I'd make my own, but I may just buy one of their 55g/hr centrifuge sets.
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-2000 F250 7.3 PSD - 265k
-1990 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ62 - 212k
-2001 M3 - TIAG Coupe - 6MT - 39k
-1995 M3 - Daytona Violet - Coupe/5MT - 182k - FOR SALE
Vacuum and pressure is the best and most efficent way to move fluid. it is very easy to build. this guy has a sweet setup, YouTube - WVO Collection using Propane turned Vacuum Tank, a little on the larger size but very well planned. i am in the process of collecting everyting to build one out of a 60-90gal water heater. dont have them room for a trailer mount. want to be able to through it in the back of the truck when i need to collect.
I've been using 12 volt pumps since I first started messing WVO back around 2000. Shurflo served me well but now I have 2 I bought off Ebay. They cost $33.00 each and are working fine.
nitro3421 Are you planning on blending or running your WVO in a two-tank system. If you are planning on blending, then blenders find it is easier to blend, then settle your WMO blend for a day or two before filtering it. You will find that most of the contaminants will precipitate out within hour to days, then your filtration setup can be simplified. I use just a y-trap, then one 20" 1-micron bag filter. If you are planning on using a centrifuge, then you will find the settled WMO blend will pass through the centrifuge better and will require fewer passes through it to get clean.
sorry to resurrect an old thread, but i've been thinking about pumping my WMO, as i'm tired of the HFT hand pump i've been using. your engine oil pump sounds pretty slick, but before i found this thread i was thinking about getting a used power steering pump and having it belt-driven off a standard 120v motor. i was thinking of doing this with a remote-reservoir pump, as are often found on toyotas and certain other vehicles. my local pick-n-pull has PS pumps for $25
does this sound like a good new idea, a common method, or the worst idea you've ever heard of??
update: just bought such a pump from the JY, from a 91 toyota pickup. its mounting bracket looks way too easy to mount, i'll post back when i have it set up
I use a pump I bought from Harbor Freight; it has worked well for 2 years. Hook it up to the compressor and the hydraulic thingy works pretty good. I also mix it with diesel first.
I have a couple of totes to store my oil/diesel mix in, then pump it to three 55 gallon drums mounted on a stand built of 4X6s/strong ties, let it set until I feel the urge to make some. I then run it through a gravity fed water filter in to another tote, then pump it back up to the drums through a 10, followed by a 5 micron house filter. Once that is done, I work it through my centrifuge into my final tote and put it directly into my truck. Never an issue in 2+years and about 40K miles on my 2002 7.3.
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Retired from USN and back to work.
well if you're gonna resurect an old thread, i'll post the update i promised on how that pump works out for me
it worked great for a couple months, then it sucked up a bit of gunk and that seemed to kill it. it now spins easily when dry, but when it has oil in it, it limits itself to about 80RPM. of course, thats slow enough to fry just about any motor i put against it, i even tried adding a drill motor to the motor thats mounted to it, and got nowhere.
so i pulled the pump apart, found a few chunks of foreign matter inside, cleaned it out and reassembled it, same story. now its collecting dust on the back table.
so i bought harbor freight's orange "heavy duty" drill mounted pump, and i can't get it to lift water 3 inches, so its collecting dust too.
what harbor freight model did you find? got an item number i can look up, or a pic of it?
Harbor freight has no pump that is self-priming. The clear water pump from HF works well if it is primed. It will not work at all if you don't have oil in the pump to start with.
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2002 F-250 Super Cab, 289,000 miles, 89,000 on WVO; Greasecar conversion, 20 plate heat exchanger, AIH delete-water injection in its place, DIY stock fuel bowl delete, 6637 air filter w/ Pete's cover, Straight Piped, GPR LED mod, CAT ELC, 203* thermostat, Bosch auxiliary coolant pump, ext coolant filter, fumoto oil drain valve, Aeroforce Interceptor scan gauge, ISSPro trans temp, boost, EGT, elec fuel pressure gauges, Cyberdyne coolant, veg oil, ambient air temp gauges, 80W low beams/100W high beams. No major grease related problems.
when i tested the HFT pump, my test was dipping the whole pump in a wheelbarrow full of water, then turning on the drill and raising the outlet of the pump up. i found it could lift water about 1.5" and no more. needless to say, i'm not wasting my time trying it with oil
thanks for the links, i'll check those out
I use this pump on my filtering setup. It is always primed, so it works great! It is only 40 bucks and if you buy the optional insurance it can be replaced free if it dies within 2 years.
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