Never used the stuff besides dumping it down the sinks. I blow my water lines out with air.

 

I don't use a pump to get the antifreeze into the system, my water pump and a suction line and valve provision just for that purpose. On my old toyhauler the pump didn't have the extra plumbing so I would just unscrew the pump's suction line and then stick a length of surgical tubing into the fitting and the pump would pull the antifreeze right out of the jug.
I first drain my system, then blow it out pretty good and then pump the antifreeze in, overkill I know but that's how I've always done it and have never had a problem. The whole operation takes less than an hour so it's no big deal.

 

How can I be sure all of the water is out of the hot water lines? I have drained the water heater.

 

I need to pump the antifreeze into the black water washout sprayer thingy majiggy. I was told that those are prone to freeze damage.

The dealer I bought it from can not get it in for the repairs needed until the first week or so of December. Since it is new, the manufacture recommends that it be winterized by the selling dealer. Plus I don't have to screw with it....well that was the plan until the wife called to make the appointment.

So I need to blow the lines out and then put antifreeze in the p-traps and water lines?

 

OK, Have you setup the water heater by-pass? By-pass the water heater, drain the water heater tank, hookup compressed air to the city water connection (turn air regulator down to 30 PSI or so) open all faucets and taps both hot and cold to blow the lines dry. I usually bump each on/off a few times to get all the water out that I can.

 

For my black tank rinse thing-a-ma-jig I hookup my outside shower hose to the flusher connection (they are close together on my rig) once the system is charged up with antifreeze and then run some af into the black tank via the rinser. That will work if you fill your system with af, if you just air blow the whole system dry then just use the same air connection that you use on the city water connection to blow air into the black tank rinser connection.
I also do my blowing dry with my grey tank dump valve open so all the water leaves the systems, then close it before adding antifreeze to the system, the traps get filled as I check for good af flow at the faucets. Don't forget the toilet line and add some extra af to the black tank to keep the dump valve seals wet and happy.

 

Good to know that I got the same advice from a few folks!

This is how my boss said to do the prep for winter. I was also told to just blow the lines out and put antifreeze in the traps.

I left work early on Friday and stopped at the local RV/TT store. I picked up the pump, city water adapter and 3 gallons of AF for 33.00. The sales Lady told me to do it either way on the pipes.

 

To update my towing of the camper after the oil cooler and EGR delete.

EOT never made it over 212F and the coolant never saw anything over 200 F. The biggest spread on the deltas was 15 F going up a 3% hill. The oil recovered nicely on this trip. Before the oil cooler replacement, the EOT would not recover fast. It took a long while to see it drop a few degrees. Today it recovered in under 5 minutes after we got back on flat terrain.

I ended up running the unlimited tow tune from Matt. All the other towing I used the 8k tune. After talking with Matt I decided to try the unlimited tow, since I have no way of monitoring EGTs.

The truck wasn't as peppy as the 8k tow, but it pulled smoother then the stock tune with the tow/haul mode activated.

 

I don't think there is a water heater bypass. I did check and there is antireeze in the hot water heater. Mine has the AF tube near the pump with a valve, I sucked the fluid into the system, the cold side was filled, I opened the hot valves to drain the water back. The toilet has AF in the tube and I dumped some in the black and some down the grey drains.

What kind of adapter do you all use to blow out the lines?

 

Check again, every modern trailer I've seen has a water heater by-pass, sure beats having to use 6 to 8 gallons just to fill that tank.
The blowout adapter I use is just a PVC male hose fitting with tire valve stem on the other side, I use a clamp-on air chuck to put my regulated air supply into the city water connect through it. Something like this but mine has an actual valve stem on it. http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...-out-plug/4410

 

I'll have to get a pic of what I use. I went to the hardware store, bought a pipe to hose adaptor, and threaded in another pipe adaptor to get it to the size of the male quick coupler that my air tools use. So just screw the thing into the hose connection, and pop on the air hose. Regulate it down to keep it below 40 psi.

 

So kinda like the working man's version of this fancy gizmo Dave? Winterize Manufacturing - Quick Connect RV Blow Out Plug

 

EXACTALLY like that! But brass, cast, Teflon tape, uglier, and cheaper. Lol

 

Thanks, I will have to look at my heater again. It got down to freezing last night but not a super hard freeze, I will take a look at it tonight if I have time.


Do you guys remove your battery over the winter or leave it charging? I have an extension cord running to the RV from the house, is that ok for several months?

 

My TT is plugged in all the time at home, year round, never had a problem with a battery.