Driver side is nice & tight to the hub, passenger side flops a bit. Major grinding noise from that area and it seems to be locking 1 or both front wheels so it's hard to get it to move 6" let alone down the road.

Tried taking it off and can only get half the screws out of the hub...any tips for getting the rest out (pretty sure they're round now instead of hex )
If I have to I'll take my 4" makita with a cutting wheel to it.
Could I use the hub from a '84 F150? No idea what axle they use other then they're a goofy looking independent setup.

 

You could drill the heads off of the screws.

 

and yes the 84 hubs will work they should both be dana 44 ttb front axles and yes you craterd a lock out happends to me on a regular basis lol but change to Warn Premium or Mile Marker hubs i found they hold up to alot of miss use and abuse trust me, why dont you use a small drill bit lightly into the hole and easy out them alot less work and head ache

 

Here's an example of the wrong way to do it.

 

how is that the wrong way if you drill hous the head alittle bit enough to fit a small easy out then it should come right now im not talking aboiut drilling the bolts out

 

And what happens when that small piece of tool grade steel breaks off in the screw?...

Easy outs, imo, are the worst way to remove any fastener. If he's already going to be drilling it for an easy out, why not go ahead and drill the head off?

 

cause whats left of the thread might be a PITA to get out as long as the bolts are not case hardend beyond an 8 the easy out will work just fine

 

Thanks for the help
Wasn't the hub creating the problem I/we were trying to fix. Drilled the heads off some of the bolts, grinder took off the rest. The "splines" on the heads of the bolts were locking 'em in place. What an idiotic setup. Dunno what my dad got for hubs, they say "SuperWinch" on 'em. Think we found a bigger issue though.

Seems the rear end blew up. Something's binding in the rear, either the ring&pinon or brakes but the wheels turn fairly easy by hand so I don't think its brakes. Tries to move and the rear diff dips either down or up (depending on forward or reverse) and it makes a short grinding noise, almost a click. With 1 rear wheel on the ground I can turn the one in the air fine until it tries to move the driveshaft, then it suddenly stops (out of gear) and makes a quiet click. They don't turn smoothly with both in the air and I can feel the "click" every 3/4 turn or so. Last week he hauled a round bale that was about 5.5ft high in it...pretty sure it overloaded something as this poor thing's 20 yrs old.

Only thing I understand how to fix is my car...no training or anything on trucks... lol and my dad isn't any better.
Yup, broke the rear end. Doing exactly what's described here (except the first indication was the rear end locking up every 3/4 turn instead of 1/2 mile): https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post10152836.

 

sounds like you sheared a pin

 

Yeah, snapped off one tooth clean and sent it into the diff cover and cracked a 2nd tooth off. Looks like the shaft that holds the spider/transfer gears in the diff has enlarged the hole it rotates in so the gears can rise up & lock the diff in place until the engine overpowers the "lock." Looks like it was ran a long time w/o fluid too.
The pinion appears to have chewed into the case directly behind it, or its broke off some lock ring or something.
I think it'd be better to find another rear axle assembly with lower miles and put it in, my dad (his truck) wants to tear this apart and fix just enough to get down the road again.

 

nope find antoher axle cause if that case has that much damage your looking for trouble

 

A complete used axle would probably be the cheapest way to go. Make sure you get the same ratio.

 

Found a '89 F150 2wd 5spd manual for $300. No idea what engine it has but it's been sitting ~5years. Extra cab, long bed with a cap.
I'm positive it's worth the $300, but would the axle be the same as the 4wd one?

Is there a guide of sorts on what transmission will work with what engines? While we're swapping rear ends I'd think it a good idea to upgrade to the 5spd from the silly 4spd, if it's all bolt-in.
Sorry for the maybe simple/stupid questions...everything seemed to be bolt-on & don't worry about it with the '78 F250 I had myself for a while.

 

Check the axle code on the door jamb, decode here: What is my Ford rear end ratio, do I have positraction - Drivetrain.com
The trans from a 302 or 351w will bolt to your 300/6, but you may have issues with driveshaft length. You will probbly need to convert to a hydralic clutch.

 

Already has hydraulic clutch, one of the things I looked at before we tore it apart. Makes it simpler for me, never did understand the cable idea.
Do the codes have to match perfectly or could we get away with any of the 3.55 gear codes?