I decided to post on here to let anyone know that is thinking about changing their own injection pump and injectors that you can do it. I am not a diesel expert or really any real diesel experience beyond simple stuff like oil changes and coolant, or simple engine external work like alternator. I have done a lot of internal gas engine mechanical work, but am not a professional mechanic; just work on my own stuff and helping friends. I figured it can't be that hard as long as I pay attention and learn and read on here before starting.

My truck is 88 F-250 4x4 5-speed 7.3 with an ATS 093 turbo. The turbo does make some less room, but it really is only a pain for the back pass side glow plug. It is not much hassle for the injectors or the return lines. The turbo does not affect the IP access. I had a small leak from somewhere, could smell the fumes after shutting off warm engine. It was not leaking enough to drip, but could smell it. Getting maybe 16 mpg if I drive easy and not trying to go 75 mph, hahaha.

Here is my advice to anyone thinking about doing it: go for it. Just read this article in link below, it has all you need. Study this article and the pictures. Print out a copy and have it with you when doing the work as a step-by-step guide:
TikiWiki : IDI Fuel Injection Servicing

About the only thing I did differently is that I removed the top IP mounting bolt. Even though I could get the IP loose, it would not come out without getting extra clearance by removing the stud. I just double nutted it and got it out, the IP can be juggled around to get the stud out. Once removed, the IP came out much easier. The job took me about 7 hours total over a couple days, including some cleaning up the engine a little. Just pay attention and keep everything organized. Anyone with good mechanical skills can do it. I did not need a special wrench, I was able to get the three mounting bolts with a std 9/16 combination wrench. I did not have any trouble getting the old injectors out, I did spray a bit of penetrating oil on each before starting to help. I shopvac'd each injector hole to make sure they were clean before installing new injectors; and used anti-sieze on the threads.

I got the IP with the U-Haul deal which saved a lot of money. I put new injectors, BB code that I got from Russ on here. It was a bit more money, but these are tested and he includes a good return kit with the better quality O-rings. Not that much more vs rebuilt set or buying new from a different place. The return line kit is easy, just takes time to cut and fit all the hoses and clamps.

As for timing the engine, I just set the IP about one line width advanced from the scribe. My fuel filter is fairly new so I did not change it. It took about five 10-second cranking cycles for it get the system filled. It started up a bit rough and a lot of grey smoke, but cleared up after about 15 seconds. I let it warm up and went for a short drive couple miles. Checked for any leaks and seemed all dry, a good sign! The next morning it fired up quick, but some grey smoke again for about 10 seconds. Once I drove it 25 miles to work, it has not smoked any when starting up. Starts up real nice in the mornings too. No real smoke when driving like it had before if it was lugged a bit. Boost is maybe 10 psi and it was 11 psi before. I think the fuel could be turned up especially since I have the turbo. I bought the non-torque screw pump, which is what the truck had on it. I still want to get timing set to get it running as good as possible, but I will say it runs real nice now and hopefully will be better mileage. The engine does seem a bit more responsive with the new pump when you goose the throttle. It was a bit lazy before the IP and injector change. I have not had a chance to drive enough to check mileage yet.

So my message to anyone that is thinking about doing this and whether you can do it yourself is that you can do it. Save the money you would pay to have it done and use that money for something better.

To the guys on the board here contributing, thanks already for the information and money savings for me and my truck, Terry

 

good going Terry!great post too.
you can't beat having an engine you can work on yourself.no removal of electrical sensors,or worse;the whole cab removal on some of these newer diesel trucks.
back to a more simple time,when engines were made in the USA and a guy could not only identify parts,but actually replace them with ease.
we may not have the most power diesel engines on the road today,not by a long shot.but when we need 'em, their there for us reliably with just a little $ in maintenance.

 

Can I prime the pump effectively by removing the fuel screw plate and pouring fuel into the opening? I am assuming I should crack the injector lines while cranking the first or second time until I see fuel come from them. Any other tips to get it to start without wearing out my starter or draining my batteries?

 

Just crack the lines and crank, then tighten when you see fuel.

 

hey thats a good question.it sure does take some cranking to fill that sucker up.
i had to spin a full 20 seconds,went off and had a smoke,then came back and let my e-pump prime for a min or two,then she still took another 10-15 seconds before she fired up and run rough.
i was about to get the battery charger ready.i don't think my starter liked me that day.
filling it up with fuel before install sounds like a good idea,but i dunno if it is or not.id risk warming the starter up before id risk messing up a new ip lol.

 

Great post!

And thanks for that link, i'm gonna need it my self soon enough!

 

Yeah, I need to make a checklist based off that Tikiwiki before I tackle the IP job.

What would happen if I wanted to be a clever guy and remove the glow plugs before cranking the engine with the injector lines cracked to spin the engine over faster? I assume it would not damage the starter and flow the fuel quicker. I am replacing the plugs as part of this job anyway. Yes, they are Motorcraft/Berus.

 

What would be the reason for that? It bleeds pretty fast just fine by itself.

 

I would say removing the glow plugs is more work than its worth, and runs a good risk if any are swelled...

I would just make sure your fuel filter is full, crack all the injector lines, and start cranking. When fuel starts to come out of the injector lines tighten them up. when you try it again it should start like normal.

 

X2, it should bleed in two 15 second cycles of cranking.

 

The only reason I asked that is because I am replacing all 8 plugs with fresh Berus. I already checked all my plugs and they are Berus and have no swelling. It sounds like my idea would be unnecessary. I just replaced the starter and as a result, the engine cranks really fast, so I can probably pop that sucker off on the second try. I was just worried about the possibility of cranking through 5+ cycles and draining my batteries. Some one cheaped out and put 650 CCAs in it. Next time, it gets 950s!

 

Well, in that case, if you're removing them anyway, why not? But i would try not to let it actually run that way. May not hurt it, but i dont think it'd be exactly good for it...

 

This might be as good a place as any to ask:

Where are the timing marks and what do they look like? I just replaced my injection pump but the truck has no power and smokes like crazy.

 

now you need this thread.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...mp-timing.html

 

Thanks! Now I know what I'll be doing this weekend.