Rebuilding 1947 1-ton front & rear suspension?
#1
Rebuilding 1947 1-ton front & rear suspension?
My stock suspension system (front and rear) is really sloppy thus needs to be rebuilt or replaced. It will be driven on the interstate (no more than 60 mph) as well as on secondary roads. I hope to keep it stock if possible as long as it is safe. I see a lot of discussion for 1/2 trucks but not as much for larger trucks. I'm not familiar with these type suspensions so any advice will be appreciated. Thanks in advance, Roy
Last edited by Chief-e9; 02-27-2011 at 09:00 AM. Reason: Clarification
#2
First, if you plan on going on the interstate, you will likely need a whole new rear axle. The gearing on the 3/4 and 1 tons was very low (high numerically) and would rarely go over 45mph. And I don't think there are new gear sets available for those axles.
But what is sloppy in you suspension? The bushings where the springs attach to the hangers? That is about the only wear point. The front is the same except for the steering components.
Really, if you replace the worn parts the original springs will do fine on the highway, as long as you make sure none are cracked or in real bad shape. A little rust is fine.
The suspension is the same principal as what is used on modern day trucks in most respects. The rear's still use leaf springs and some fronts use leaf springs. But most are coil overs. The original suspension, if in good shape, will do fine in most any application, whether it be driving around town, or on the interstate.
What is wrong with the suspension that makes you think it's sloppy?
But what is sloppy in you suspension? The bushings where the springs attach to the hangers? That is about the only wear point. The front is the same except for the steering components.
Really, if you replace the worn parts the original springs will do fine on the highway, as long as you make sure none are cracked or in real bad shape. A little rust is fine.
The suspension is the same principal as what is used on modern day trucks in most respects. The rear's still use leaf springs and some fronts use leaf springs. But most are coil overs. The original suspension, if in good shape, will do fine in most any application, whether it be driving around town, or on the interstate.
What is wrong with the suspension that makes you think it's sloppy?
#3
The truck now has 351W engine, A/T, P/S, and Dana rear-end. However, the front and rear suspension, as well as brake system, is still original. The truck tends to wander somewhat and has a lot of "creaks and groans", etc. You can tell by looking at the springs and rest of suspension parts that they are old and not been serviced if not ever, in a long time. Therefore, I'd like to rebuilt it entirely if worthwhile. I really don't want the expense of replacing with a newer system (for example, Mustang II suspension in the front) unless absolutely necessary since I don't drive the truck that much.
#4
1940 suspension
hi,
I have the same situation with my 1940 one ton. I do not have all the answers, thinking about keeping all 4 wheels drums, but did add a modern power brake dual system under floor (it will mate to modern engine for manifold vac brake assist). I plan on getting a used 302 or similar with AOD trans.
It seems that one big factor is the differential ratio, believe they had 4:11 gears, so you need an overdrive to even get close to highway speeds.
As far as suspension goes, the front is more critical than rear. It has a naturally wandering suspension with the shackle designs, bump steer is a big issue. No way to fix that unless you go with a M2 setup - BUT I do have an idea.
Most parts stores sell a truck "steering stabilizer" ( one shock horizontal between both links) to keep long travel jarring to a minimum. I am going to try that solution, less than $100!!
Also another firm sells a disc brake frt conversion, about $600, but the catch is you may have to change the wheel bolt patterns too. Engineered Components, Inc. - Your One Stop Brake Shop!
keep in touch, let me know what you decide.
thanks,
mpr
I have the same situation with my 1940 one ton. I do not have all the answers, thinking about keeping all 4 wheels drums, but did add a modern power brake dual system under floor (it will mate to modern engine for manifold vac brake assist). I plan on getting a used 302 or similar with AOD trans.
It seems that one big factor is the differential ratio, believe they had 4:11 gears, so you need an overdrive to even get close to highway speeds.
As far as suspension goes, the front is more critical than rear. It has a naturally wandering suspension with the shackle designs, bump steer is a big issue. No way to fix that unless you go with a M2 setup - BUT I do have an idea.
Most parts stores sell a truck "steering stabilizer" ( one shock horizontal between both links) to keep long travel jarring to a minimum. I am going to try that solution, less than $100!!
Also another firm sells a disc brake frt conversion, about $600, but the catch is you may have to change the wheel bolt patterns too. Engineered Components, Inc. - Your One Stop Brake Shop!
keep in touch, let me know what you decide.
thanks,
mpr
#5
mprsox: Thanks for reply. You quoted "did add a modern power brake dual system under floor". What is the system to include type master cylinder, adapter, etc.? Did you use one from another vehicle or was it all aftermarket? Does it have a booster and are you still using the stock drum brakes? Sounds like what I need. The steering stabilizer sounds like a good idea, also. I'll pm you my phone number and we can talk if you like since it sounds like we have the same project ahead. Later, Roy
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