I really don't see how you could have a problem with the filter, I have the cheap plastic release tools, and I just put some spray lube on there, insert the tool, and push the fuel line twards the middle of the filter as I wiggle the tool into the conector, and the line has always popped right off once you have the tool in all the way. Just a light pull should do it. I know when I got my pickup, the filter had been on there for at least 40,000 miles, and was rusted pritty good. It only took me at the most 5 min to change..

 

On some trucks, the filter is located between the rail and the side tank...so thats the problem, very little room to fit your hands and the tool.

 

Thats how mine is.. just bearly enough room for my hands..

 

I had major problems with it until I bought the cheapie one-piece plastic tool and used some PB Blaster, then it took less than 5 minutes.
It was the best $5 I've ever spent on a specialty tool

 

I have the old style with the plastic release tabs. I spent 30 minutes trying to figure out how to use the specialty tool on the filter because I couldn't get it to snap onto the new filter. Finally I gave up and crawled under the pickup. Pulled the two tabs and realized that the specialty tools weren't needed and the job was stupid easy.

Is there anyway for those of you with the later style to change to the early style? I'm wondering because it seems simpler to me if so many people have issues with it.

But hey, think of it this way, at least your fuel filter can be changed. My Monte Carlo has a "lifetime" filter in the tank that cannot be replaced.

 

The ones with the quick plastic snaps are nice and an really easy to swap out.

For those who are ambitious, I've seen Advance Auto sell the white plastic clip connectors in the HELP! section, but you'd have to cut the ends off your current ones and attach those.

You had no idea how many times I almost bought them and then just stuck'em on any way possible because of how frustrating it was.
First filter was removed with a screwdriver and ate up all the little teeth on those.
Second I couldn't get off after yanking and pulling, tried the plastic and it literally came off like butter in my hands. I did replace the little teeth things though, since they're in the same HELP! section.

 

Subford where do you get all those wonderful diagrams?

 

How about the idiot that decided to thread the fuel filter right to the carburetor. It was ok when the filters were made in the US but now you can only find China Crap. The treads on the new ones are for ***** and you usually strip out the alum. housing on the carb. when installing them. If that happens you're screwed. I got a replacement carb at the junk yard, rebuilt it and installed a brass nipple on the carb. and now use an in-line filter.

 

The ones above. I took the photo of the retainer clips, they were out of a fuel line going to a front tank on a 95 F150 at a salvage yard. I did not do the messing up of those.
The diagram is from a ford shop manual.

 

Last weekend I decided to replace both filters on my 95 f150 and my 04' E350. After some web search and diagrams I picked up the wix's and a $3.50 yello plastic release tool at checker's. I have never done this before and fully expected the tool to fail instantly! Once under the F150 I put some liquid wrench on the studs/nuts that hold the bracket to the frame and then inserted the tool(all fuel pressure was relieved prior per the Haynes manual) I rotated the tool gently while inserted and "pop" off it came, did the other end and put the new filter on and snapped down the metal clamps. Oh, I removed the bracket from the frame as suggested and it was easy.Went under the E350 which sits higher and basickly repeated everything and in about 20 min. I was done. The reason I started all of this was because my F150 had a throttle lag upon taking off...that corrected it just like new! The E350 had an error code dealing with fuel pressure and now thats good too. I think the Haynes manuals suck big time but if you read it "all over the place" you can figure it out.

 

It also helps a lot if you twist the filter to break the "O" rings free from the fuel lines after you unbolt it from the frame and spray WD-40 or liquid wrench in on the "O" rings.
Then you can push the fuel line in a little and insert the tool all the way in and then pull the fuel line free.

 

anyone have to drop their skid plate to have room to work on theirs ???

 

Close...I cut a section out using a hand grinder, to provide more hand room.

 

i found it makes it easier to change if u use a motorcraft filter.The stems are longer than a fram etc etc.Easier to get ur release tool in place.

 

On a pressurized fuel line? NEVER! You are just asking for a fiery death. Some numbskull did that to my wife's V10 Econoline van and the thing was spraying gasoline like a garden sprinkler! Rubber cannot replace steel!