Porthole - you got it violet with a grey stripe is +12v, grey brown is ground. The gauge is 18 or 20 if I remember correctly.

 

Well I didn't find those on the driver’s side. But by that time I was ready to install my relay pack.

I did find what looks like violet/white and gray/tan on the right side kick panel. Large connector on the fuse box. The colors could be violet/gray and gray/brown

These wires reversed when actuating the locks, but the signal was not strong enough to run the solenoids in my tool box.

So I made a bank of 4 relays I had sitting around (775's), used the signal to run the relays.
Works great now.

Sure would have been easier if the locks worked like they did in the old days
I wouldn’t think the solenoids could operate using 18-20 gauge wire.
I guess the screw type doesn’t use anywhere near the current the old plunger style used.

 

Yeah the current draw is minimal on the new actuators - driving a relay rather than the actuator is definitely the way to go. I've got an old style actuator for the tailgate that has 14 gauge pigtails on it so I'm paddling the same boat.

 

In a day or two I'll post pics of what I did. I think it came out pretty good.

 

If memory serves me correctly, fuses would start blowing shortly after washing vehicle or a strong rain. Water was entering remote keypad on drivers door. This would cause body control module to supply signal to continuously lock or unlock actuators. This can also cause them to overheat and damage them. This is like holding switch in lock or unlock position. Sometimes the interior and cargo lamps will be on without being manually activated. To test it, lock doors electronically. Use water hose and let it run over outside keypad. Sometimes it will activate right away or it could take a while. It may take days for moisture to wick inside keypad. Then again it may have an old fashioned short to trace down. Good luck. Hope it was helpful.

 

A couple days ago I was getting in my truck like normal and started the truck and went to put the window down put nothing happened so I turned the truck off and then turned back on hit the window bottom again and it made a whining noise but still the window did roll down so I drove back to the houes got outta of the truck and then after 15 min or so I went and tried it again window rolled down but now power locks keeps blowing there fuse so I stared taken the door panel checking wires I got to the passager side where the big bundles of wire travel under the door sill and found a purple and black wire in a liege spot totally melted to wear bare wire now shows but not touching the cab or any metal someone out there have any ideal how or why this is happening

 

Hey guys, sorry to resurrect an old thread but I'm now having this problem. Seems that when truck is not running the lock fuse doesn't blow. As soon as truck gets started, the door locks fuse blows. Any ideas? Voltage spike? Bad BCM? If the BCM was bad, what other symptoms should I see? From what I can tell, everything else seems fine.

Edit: 2011 F350, deleted.

 

Just an idea.. But look at your wire harness by the E-brake. Mine was rubbing and caused blown fuses when I put the e-brake on.

 

There's also a recall out for doors coming open unexpectedly. Could they be related perhaps?

 

Had this problem with my old 2011. Never found the problem, just kept a good supply of fuses. In my case, I noticed the problem never occurred until I would spray out my bed/tailgate with water. More specifically, water getting inside the tailgate while down. There has to be some wiring in there that's tied in. I just disabled the autolock feature and didn't use the locks, so that driving immediately after washing it out didn't cause a short. A few hours later, no problem locking doors again.

 

I had trouble like this. Insulation on wires in flex tube of door broke down and wires shorted. Suggest people check the wires in flex tunes for each door every so often.

 

Any suggestions on how to go about finding shorts on the 2011+? Perhaps put a new fuse in and then try locking the driver's door first and then passenger and see when the fuse blows?

 

To Start
Which fuse are you blowning, F32 or F20?

F32 is the power feed to the control circuit.

If it is F20, the power circuit, then I would guess that it wouldn't blow a fuse by simply turning on the power to the truck because this circuit is hot all the time. But I don't assume anything when troubleshooting. To operate the door actuators lock or unlock you change the polarity to the actuator. Also if you remote start your truck it activates the door locks!!

 

F20 is the one that is blowing.

I haven't used the remote start lately so that's not the issue.

I installed the EZ Lynk delete tuner recently but unlikely that has anything to do with it.

I did add recon LED lights through the entire exterior but when I use lock and unlock function on the key fob the lights all seem to work no problem.

So it seems it has to be something in the door lock circuit.

 

Do you have the auto lock mode on in your truck. From the wiring diagram it seems that it would happen when the actuators lock. Either the violet with gray stripe (Both rear doors and front passenger doors) or the Blue with Green stripe (driver's door) is grounding out. Might to isolate each wire and see what happens, my big guess is the BLU-GRN wire.