No, I did not. The WAY1, VEX1 are Bronco/4WD F-series 302 W/E4OD, there are probably others that will work. At one time I had a comprehensive list but can no longer locate it.

 

I appreciate your research, but where did you find that? I have searched OIL2 and have found little information. I have no issue buying another computer but would prefer to use what I have.

Again, thanks for your extra effort.

 

The catch code represents a particular calibration, the strategy represents a specific feature set the computer has. Other '95 5.8 MAF Cali trucks use the AHACA strategy, so yours is very likely to be the same. The AHACA strategy is probably close to AHACB, i can check when I get home.

 

I know This is an old post but I'm curious if y'all know anything about the sct eliminator 4 bank e prom. I'm used to tuning obd2 vehicles and have never messed with an obd1 so I'm at a loss on what to use to get some more power out the truck. It's a 95 f150 5.0maf 4x4 currently an automatic, I have longtubes on it and will soon be putting a cam and gt40 heads on.

 

It's really no different than a regular chip, only you get 4 tunes instead of 1...
What do you need to know?
The chip has nothing to do with power, it's the tune itself.
Programming a chip is no different than flashing an ecu, you still need to Dyno tune it for max potential. Don't get a mail order tune. Go to a local Dyno tuner and get it done right.

 

So can I just take it to a dyno shop and they can flas the eec on the truck? I don't give a damn bout going back to the factory tune so if I can save the 250 it costs I'd be real happy lol. I don't need to swap tunes, I want an all out performance tune to run all the time

 

I said programming a chip is no different than flashing the ecu... I did not say you didn't need the chip.
If you don't have an obd2 truck, you need a chip
They make a single tune ship, and a multiple tune chip. Go to your Dyno and see what they can program. They may be an sct or possibly a diablo chip seller, they may not offer a switch chip, so you're only getting one tune anyway.
Call or go to your Dyno shop with your ecu code, and see if they offer a chip and can program it. That's the easiest way to move forward with this.

 

Ten four I will. Thank you very much for the information

 

If I remember right as well with doing the bar switch on the map in the SD systems didnt they increase the fuel to a point with in the stock program range as they where changed out as 1 would be the sealevel and 3 above 3000 ft in elevation . and as you increased the elevation it would drop the fuel curve down . as oyu were then in thinner air and as such would require les fuel for the same response. so if you were below 3k in feet and running a 3 bar map you are then in turn faking the computer out tell it to run in a slimmer fuel profile. as well as those with a semi radical cam and are worried about vacuum wobble on the map. would you not then also be able to run a vacuum check valve split in the middle of the line like the old distribs ( they look like a fuel filter for a lawn mower or small gas motor ) so that way it would stabalize the vacuum, as well as a additional vacuum can for the map as then it would be a slower curve on it then comming straight off the vacuum tree on the manifoldas well as the check valve and a thinner vacuum line would then limit the amount of vacuum being pulled on the crystal inside of the map and then limit the response curve on the map as well
?!?

 

From what I have seen, the forced induction seem to have used mass air sensors. I was digging into a 1990 SC engine system, it used DIS and MAF on it's controls. Since Ford MAP sensors actually put out a frequency signal vs everyone else using voltage I'm not sure what could do.

I have a Chrysler Turbo-II engine in my Lebaron convertible, it uses a 2-bar sensor and I run 14 psi boost, if I wanted to go over that (engine will easily take 20 psi) I have to go to a GM 3-bar sensor which is, like the Chrysler one, 0-5 volt signal. Chrysler was still using a MAP sensor on the 2005 Town and Country we had.

 

Where in south Fl?

 

Hello, I had to re-up(computer crash) I do lots of reading/googling, and yes this is old but I believe this is good info I am trying to share, on NLOC,net, a thread title PiMPxs (MS3)) started by Dark Lord, seems as though, stinger performance is adding a real plug & play ecm/ecu that also controls our E4OD trans, that they are intro'ing this year, stinger rep starts telling on page 9 post #127 or #128, and saying will be cheaper than megasquirt/quick 4($1,800) or another one @ ($1500) with quick 4. says theirs will be less than ($1500) and has a lightning guy as guine pig for them, working bugs out, I've tried looking at their web site, dont have a clue if I was even on right one, only seen 4cyl turbo stuff? I have 95 F150 SC 4x4 5.8L

 

I already thought the pimpx rig was plug and play. A few people on here are running it and seem to like it, but it's pricey even in its current edition. Pricey as in, more costly than a home built setup.

 

Interesting how far some of this has come since I was working on mine. I thought at one point I was dealing in black magic trying to get any information on a MAF/SEFI 460 and E4OD. The latter was the biggest stumbling block, the Mustang EECs will work just fine with a manual or even a 4R70/75W transmission, the E4OD is different enough that it is not possible. Primary reason is the E4OD has a coast clutch that is engaged in manual 3rd to ensure engine braking. The Output Shaft Speed sensor can probably be worked around.

 

This computer is now released. It's called the PiMPxshift and a number of Lightning guys are now running them. It's the first product listed on this page of the site: STINGER PERFORMANCE PARTS - 2.3 Turbo Performance Parts for Mustang SVO, Thunderbird Turbo Coupe, Merkur XR4Ti, Pinto, Ranger, and Sand Rails There are a lot of 4 cyl parts on the site as that's where it started 15 years ago but the V8 stuff (ECU's/tuning stuff particularly) has been where the focus has been the last few years.