I was in D1 Shield In February. The talk then was an expansion of the base to accommodate the State Department Mission.I have no idea if that happened or will happen.

 

Gotta love the Army way of doing things.............When I left Shield, in April of 09, They were moving everyone out and the scuttle butt was they were going to close it down and turn it back over to the Iraqi government................

 

Great write up indeed!

Nothing to dread about U-joints once you learn the ways as long as you have a big vise and bench top, though I've done it on the floor .... PITA.

Like the safety aspect of showing the use of visegrips to hold the bolt or a socket if used.

Back in the mid '70s I and a friend were working on a Ujoint for his 67 ElCamino, I was using a socket, for some reason being stupid and holding it between left thumb and fingers. To this day my left thumb has a permanent groove about 1/8" deep, like a valley in the thumb nail that is just left of center. I busted it good that day, still see a scar along the left side behind the nail leading to the joint, glad to have it though (the thumb). The scar and nail are good reminders.

ALWAYS use visegrips after that.

Small insignificant point for those who don't know, that CV joint is called a "double cardan joint". It's two universals back to back and they do cancel out each other's cyclic changes in velocity so that all total .... they form one type of CV joint.

You likely knew the difference, as well as that a U-joint isn't a CV joint, the driven yoke speeds up and slows down twice each revolution in relation to the drive yoke once you introduce any angle. Which is why it's so important to phase them in pairs just like the "H" of the double cardan joint does. Makes it easy for some to remember which way to spline their slip joint when present.

Only late Dents I've seen double cardan joints on are short bed 4x4s like yours and Broncos, I don't recall it on a long bed ... but could be. I figure it's because short beds rear drive shafts experience greater angles due to same heights and travel with a much shorter rear driveshaft.

 

All good info............I work as a heavy equipment/ truck mechanic and have done ujoints out in a dirt feild with nothing more than a good hammer and a bolt.... and thats even a bigger PITA than doing them on the floor. I've got so many scars and banged up body parts from doing this stuff for almost 40 years that I dont even remember the majority of them.......Hell Ive got scars on top of scars............LOL Been extremely lucky over the years to never have anything real serious happen though. As I get older I have gotten a lot safer how I do things...............And if I remember correctly, all of the long beds use a carrier bearing dont they? That would explain the lack of need for the CV on the longer wheel base trucks...........I havent worked on a long wheel base 4x4 for years, all I have owned in as far as dents go (besides the occasional parts truck) is short WB 4x4's. But used to work on the long wheel base ones on my job...................just been a LOOOOONNNNGGG time ago............

 

Now that you mention it, I think most long beds, mine included .... use a center carrier bearing and the rear shaft actually has three joints, one at the TC, one behind the carrier bearing, one at rear. My NP205 TC mounts to an adapter type tailshaft housing on the C-6.

Those with divorced TC s might be set up with a DC joint? I've never fooled with them much to recall.

10-04 on working in the dirt. That's partly what I was doing when nearly lost the thumb. Had I lost it, would have likely cost me a future career of my choice, maybe not met my wife, all kinds of changes in my life's direction.

Several uncles were both operators and mechanics on heavy equipement depending on job, know it's hazards. Broken foots from dropping stuff, missing parts, etc. I wanted to be a trooper, and made it. In flood of '85 was checking a back road for a creek level and a few men were there trying to move some equipement to high ground, they were in a hurry, had a chain just rigged under a Cat to pull another piece, water rising fast, guy took up slack before one guy got hand off chain .... 4 fingers gone in a flash and rising water ..... no time for ambulance, we just wrapped his hand good and put what was left of fingers in a styrafoam cup and he got in police car and we came out of the hollow through high water. Poor guy .... still missing 4 fingers, too mashed up to save.

 

I had a buddy years ago who lost his dad who was an operator for years. They were running scrapers and had gotten one stuck. They backed another one up to it to pull it out and the dad got in between the two to hook them up. He was the one operating the scraper that was going to do the pulling. He got off of it and did not set the can down. The park brake did not hold (which they never did back in the day) and the scraper rolled back pinning the dad between the two. My freind and his mother got a phone call telling them to come see him because when they seperated the two machines he would be gone...............My freind said the last thing his ol man said to him before they seperated them was: "I'm sorry.............I knew better than to leave that machine without setting the can down, I just was in a hurry" That one has stuck with me for years.................................Wow......... ....did this thread get off track or what??????

 

That's bad. Sorry for your friend.

Yeah, off track.

 

ok fellas, sorry to resurrect an old post but the OP did a great job with photos and explanation for newbies like me as I am trying to replace a leaking output seal on my transfer case. I ran into a snag today when trying to do the replacement and ended up having to order another output seal from NAPA today.

Couple of quick questions:

1. OP said there would be a washer between yoke and nut. I did not have one on my truck (1977 F250) Should I get one and what type should I get?
2. I think I put the seal on backwards as it started leaking like a sieve as soon as I put it all back together. The seal I took off had some type of black rubber gasket around it with a label saying "outside" (on the side facing out towards the yoke) and the one I got from NAPA did not. How do you know which way faces out? I obviously guessed wrong (go gentle on me, first time working on a transfer case!)
3. What type of gear oil do ya'll recommend for replacement?

Thanks!

 

I'm the OP so I'll see if I can help ya out.
#1 Was the nut you removed a flanged nut? If so, no need for a washer. Some used them some didn't. If it's NOT a flanged nut......Not sure how to help you out.......It needs to be a hard washer, not just a hardware store variety. Maybe try the Caterpillar dealer near you and tell em you need a hard washer of the correct O.D and I.D. Measure it up and go hunting.....remember............HARD WASHER!!!!
#2 Look at your new seal...........it should have a garter spring around the rubber on one side........that spring goes to the oil side IE: towards the inside of the transfer case.........or for future reference any fluid you are trying to keep in.
#3 I usually run a good quality 80W90 or 85W140 in mine. Have used both with no ill effects. I am assuming that its a 205 gear drive TC. If its an aluminum housing, It will use Dexron.
Theres never a dumb question when youre trying to learn and Im always glad to try and help somebody who WANTS to learn. Glad the post helped you out and if ya need more, just ask. I'll try to answer as quick as life allows.

 

Nut is flanged so that is the good news!

I took my previously purchased seal over to my buddy's house and he informed me that the seal and yoke needed a tighter fit so looks like I need to take in my yoke to NAPA and have the guy put some calipers on it.

I wasnt sure how tight the collar of the seal should be around the yoke but I am guessing pretty tight, hence the suggestion of the lube for the yoke.

Off to NAPA, let's try this again!