The problem is everyone wants one of these rather than fix their problems, a stabilizer is a shock that absorbs feedback, resistance so the wheel isn't jerked from your hands, it isn't to remove play!

 

I hear you. I'm going to give it a go and if it raises the steering to my expectations, great, if not I'll throw a new box in for $120. It looks like about 8 bolts total and an hour or two of work. Because you're not changing any geometry, I don't think you even need to do an alignment.

JP

 

It should come standard on an E350 because of the tires.

 

Thanks for the tips one and all! Installed and functional and could tell immediate difference!

 

I would recommend this to any one considering it. I test drove over some areas that I normally avoid because of steering pull and follow and with just a normal hold on the wheel no other action was needed.

I was prepared to spend the cash for new ford brackets for my '08 E-150, but patience paid off in that we are scrapping a '94 E-350 diesel cube-van at work and I salvaged the parts and bought a new KYB shock for $35. Every cube-van I've checked since reading this thread has had the stabilizer.
All the bolts came out intact from the 18 yr old Minnesota truck and every thing was cleaned up, repainted, installed and looks like new. I tapped 10 x 1.5 mm starter threads part way into the holes already in my frame, but probably didn't even need to, the factory 13mm head, piloted self tapper bolts easily screwed into the frame rail with hand tools. I'm sure it would be just as easy to cut the threads by just running the bolts in with an air ratchet.

Thanks to the OP for pointing out this easy fix, makes the E just a little nicer.

 

Great thread! I just installed the stabilizer in my 2001 E150 last night and haven't gone for a test drive yet. I have a couple of questions.

Question 1:
If I understand correctly, the OP changed the bracket from the top of the arm to the bottom. The schematic also appears to show the bracket as attaching to the bottom of the arm.

If there isn't any interference with the radiator hose does it matter which way the bracket is mounted? How is it actually mounted on the E350? How are most people mounting it?


Question 2:
I have the OEM nut/washer attaching the above mentioned bracket to the stabilizer. I couldn't get the nut tight enough to stop the washer from spinning. It barely spins and there isn't any noticeable play. I suspect the powder coating on the bolt attached to the bracket is coming off and stopping me from being able to turn it any further. Should I take off the nut, clean the threads and put it back on tighter. Or doesn't it really matter?

Thanks in advance!

 

Replace the bolt, or add another washer.

 

Cheesy, If I understand, you are asking about the position of the bracket that attaches to the tie rod? And whether the bracket is above or below the tie rod. On mine the bracket is below the tie rod with the u-bolts going over the top of the rod. That is how it was on the '94 7.3l, E-350 that I got the parts from, and if I had tried to mount it above, the bolt would hit the radiator hose on my '08 5.4l, E-150 (8 lug). I don't see where it would matter though, as long as there is clearance, keeping in mind suspension travel.

 

Thanks for the responses. I have plenty of clearance, so I decided to leave the bracket where it where it is. As for that washer that spins. I discovered that the OEM combo nut and washer has a little flange that hold the washer on. The flange prevents the washer from making contact, so no matter how tight I get it, the washer will spin. That must just be the way it is. I think I'll stop second guessing my installation and enjoy the improved steering!

 

Took about 5k miles for my new moog ball joints to loosen up enough that wheel returned to center. I don't have steering stabilizer shock.

 

I also wanted to mention tire difference. I have had my front end aligned many times to experiment and it's set with just a bit more tow to reduce wonder. Ya, cost me a 1/2 MPG but drives straighter. I also installed Bilstein shocks and air bags.

Then new tires. The E rated tires really caused empty vehicle to wonder depending on road. The groves, ruts, painted lines or anything they could try to follow so I experimented with air pressure. The higher psi the firmer the tire and more it wonders, drop E rated tires to 50 psi and not bad. I also installed air bags front and rear with independant adjustment then measured from ground to fender line and from ground to frame trying to level vehicle. Once vehicle was level on all sides, the only problem I noticed was tires following road imperfections. Run tires at lower psi helped reduce this. If you can find a brand new straight highway to test this you can see how much comes from tires following imperfections.

A rear sway bar reduces body roll like the HD bilstein rear shocks. I added air bags to control variable loads but no matter what I do it comes down to the REAR tires pulling as the biggest problem. I don't have any problems in high winds at 70 mph after all these mods and can handle turns or off ramps at pretty high speeds but driving in the right lane with worn ruts is a PITA. I can't make the Michelin tires on my van slide/spin in the rain because they offer such great traction but that comes at a price. They follow every little imperfection on road making the vehicle wonder. New highways without imperfections, it drives pretty good.

Just wanted to mention tires since they make the van feel like front end is wondering when it's not the front.

The ford steering is so easy that some people move the wheel a little going straight causing van to wonder is prob. why the steering stabilizer feels like it helps highway driving. If I drive on a new road and set cruise control then with both feet planted on floor and arms locked on wheel resting on my legs so I can hold wheel firmly without movement I notice the van goes straight but feels like it's rocking just a little so I think we tend to move the wheel just a hair to compensate for this seat of the pants feel while causing additional problems and this is why many think the steering stabilizer is the answer. It calms down the steering wheel micro movements.

I believe this seat of the pants movement we are trying to correct may be the wind load on a big box moving down the road at speed causing this little body roll feeling we try to adjust for while causing additional sway.

I've owned 4 vans, have driven many work vans. I've logged millions of miles in different vehicles and I've never been in a single van that drives like a car. Just saying...

I'm considering aerodynamics may be playing a roll here and these would help highway driving by reducing the vehicle sway.

Aerodynamic Fuel Economy Savers for Road Vehicles

Consider this! If we move the steering wheel a hair based on seat of the pants feel caused from wind load micro sway then by eliminating or reducing that sway we would reduce our seat of the pants need to compensate. If wind causes rear of van to sway or move it then moves the front maybe 1" up and down just enough to change the steering so we compensate for this by moving the wheel then compensate again by moving back until we are worn out.

Bottom line, you have to account for all variables if we hope to come up with a real solution. Heavy duty shocks, air bags, E rated tires eliminated high wind issues but added tires following imperfecton problems I didn't have before so now what ?

Just throwing stuff out there based on my testing...

 

Just gonna post this:

If airtabs worked, the truck manufactures would have installed them from the factory and said their trucks are now the most fuel efficient. That's LITERALLY the number 1 purchasing factor for fleet buyers. That's also why you see so many of those awful Freightliner Cascadias at auctions, as they were the first to apply heavy aerodynamics to their trucks and fleet buyers loved them.

In fact, if any of those silly gizmos worked, they would be on every single truck where they would be driving down the cost of fleet operations and increasing profits for companies.

 

I think there has been some great input throughout this thread as to the problems and fixes for the vans. The twin I beam steering is sensitive to anything that moves the suspension. Wind, road bumps and undulations in the road, and the fact that the whole steering mechanism moves too freely and is not dampened. Any wear in the steering accentuates the problems. The stabilizer works because it definately reduces the speed at which the steering moves when it has wind etc try to move it. Because its dampened it doesn't move so far or so fast and that is why we who have tried it have found it works to improve the problem definately over 50 percent.
It doesn't fix it all and won't mask a bunch of other problems ultimately if they are there.
The harder you make the suspension with air bags, shocks, springs etc the less it can move and it will improve the issue, but then you have to live with a van that rides like a real truck. Its all a compromise and there is no one cure, just a few things that really do improve the issues. I have recently added the roadmaster active suspension to my van and it again helps to stabilize the van and doesn't hurt the empty ride at all, improves it, so I am very happy with the results. That combined with bilsteins, the stabilizer, michelin MS2's I enjoy driving my van now more than ever, which is really the bottom line. If you enjoy driving the vehicle then don't add the extras. Andrew.

 

I find it amazing how many of my disabled buddies own Econolines, have owned them for years due to them being the only van that lasts with all the wheelchair modifications, we drive one handed with a spinner **** and at speeds at times passin everything on the highway yet none of us have had any of the issues listed on here. LMAO

As for air bags, I have them because entering/exiting puts increased weight on the passenger side, and heavier springs on that side aren't the answer because when the lift is in, the weight is balanced. I don't want the springs broken down, to answer those who argue "if the factory don't add it it don't need it," the vans weren't designed for my lifestyle!
Wandering is corrected with an alignment, the shop needs to use the Ford Econoline recommended adjustments, they aren't a one setting fits all, that's why many won't drive straight, along with drivers need to know how to drive an I-beam vehicle. The stabilizer is a shock, just like the ones on your suspension, a fluid damper, no more responsible for centering your steering than supporting the weight of your vehicle or you'd be fighting it to turn. The 3/4 and 1 ton should have them stock, the tires are big and heavy, but not necessary, ambulances have them because the high top and extra weight they carry.

 

I've been wanting to try this "fix" on my 2008 E-350 (40,000 miles) for a while now. I recently purchased a MIG welder and decided to make my own brackets, and purchased the standard Monroe stabilizer. The project went well and I got to drive the van about 100 miles this weekend to test it out. I definitely noticed improvement in overall driving, but the biggest change came with the lack of push when passing or being passed by semi-trailers on interstate. I assume that I'll see similar improvement on windy days.
I will recommend the project for sure.