Well last couple weeks Been doing alot of snowplowing here in CT,,,truck has been running great, with the exception of a electrical issue when raising plow and going into reverse,,,now and then,,tranny shutters for a second,,sometimes a dead pedal also,,,and it is in a direct relation with using the plow pump and reverse at the same time,,,this issue has been going on since truck was new,,not everytime when going into reverse,,,,but often enough to annoy me,,,and it cant be good for the tranny,,,57k now,,,never does it when plow is not in use,,,I have seen other posts with a similar problem here on FTE.

Anyway talked to a Alternator/Starter rebuilder yesterday,,,,met him he looked at the alt on my truck,,,and said it's a G6,,,which is a 110 amp Alt,,,going to build me a 170 amp,,with a smaller 8 rib pulley, to spin up faster while at idle and low RPM.

So now when looking at it yesterday,,,,,looks kinda tight between the Belt and Radiator/Shrouds and all,, trying to find the tensioner pulley,,, to loosen the belt for Alt R/R,,,,,,,Any tips on getting in there to do this Job ?? ,,,,Thanks ,,,Mark

PS,,,Checking out the Edge insight on the Volts display,,,running usual voltage is 13.62,,,using the plow,,goes down to 12.5 volts,,,,06' F-350 6.0 all stock

 

The 6.0 do not like low voltage.
I put in a 200amp HD unit and love it.
It puts out 110amps at idle.
You will also need to upgrade the wire to your battery's.
As far as install, you can just unbolt the alt and the put the new one on and use the bolts to pull the alt into place and tighten the belt.
here is a link with a lot of good info and also the place that I got mine.
Need a high amp alternator vender - TheDieselGarage.com
Ford Power Stroke 7.3L 6.0L 6.4L 6.7L Diesel Type High Output Large Case 6G Series Alternators

 

Thats what I did to bolt it back in place.

 

If you look at the tensioner from the passenger side you will see a spring loaded catch. If you pull on the belt from the passenger side it will pull the tensioner up, then you will need a secound person to reach in on the side of the tensioner and lock it into place. Belt will be loose then. Unbolt the alt unbolt the battery wire (10mm) and undo the electrical plug. Bolt new one up reinstall wires, put belt over pully, then simply pull up on belt again to release the lock, and your done. Pretty simple, I will see if I can find the link to a thread that explans the lock with pics.

 

here is the link to a really good pic of the tab (lock) that I was talking about. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ml#post9860611

 

There's a video floating around showing a guy changing one out in less then 120 seconds.

 

I just replaced mine, took bolts out tilted alt forward & down, put new in belt, tip up & hold it, install bolts, tighten!! Done.

 

you got lucky...Either your belt is a bit stretched or your tensioner is not very strong. I took mine out the same way by removing the bolts and tilting it forward. From there I used a 1/2" drive ratchet on the tensionser to get that metal kickstand (tab) locked in...I had to use a steel pipe on the ratchet for leverage. Push the ratchet towards the drivers side of the vehicle. Those of you who can pull the belt hard enough to engage the kickstand, you are strong!!! Of course I was alone. When all is put back together, a slight tug on the belt and the kickstand will release. FYI check to see belt is around all pulleys before releasing kickstand...don't ask how I know.

 

I just changed my alternator. My belt was new, and pretty tight. I had to use a 3/8th inch drive extension through the rearmost alternator mounting hole to tilt the alternator back up, along with using a 5/16" rod through the single hole on the driver's side as a guide, but with those aids it tilted back up.

The belt wound up half way off the alternator pulley, but it was simple to use the long extension to guide it on properly as I bumped the engine. It went back on track real easy.

This was a lot better for me than getting at the tensioner. It only took about 15 minutes to change the alternator.

 

guess I will add this for the next guy that looking for Tips


The tensioner has a Kickstand that works Sweet






Here how to Tweek the belt so you can flip up the Kickstand on the tensioner to hold the belt





So here is how it goes

First take the bar and Move the Belt as shown
This will cause belt tensioner to move to where you can Flip the Kickstand into it and let off the Pressure on the Belt while holding the tensioner In

Once the Tensioner is resting on the kickstand it will stay


Then after the work get the serp belt all lined up on the pulleys and then with your Hand Just Pull on the Belt a little until the Kickstand releases and Bingo your ready to Run

This truck has a Good setup as far as this goes IMO

 

i got the belt off now i can't get it back on. can't find my 1/2 inch drive , have no help and now i'm stuck

 

Look at that Pic I don't use a 1/2 drive

Just use a Small straight Blade screwdriver to get that shroud piece Off

With that shroud piece off I can grab with 2 hands Pull the Belt and Hold it one Hand while I use a Longer screwdeiver to Flip the Kickstand Up

I bet guys do it with that shroud on Too I just like my Room

 

I have changed about 8 alternators on 6.0's. I can do it by myself in three minutes flat by pulling the belt toward the passenger side battery with one hand and engaging the kickstand with the other.

 

well I always thought it took longer to find the tools to do it

Or maybe my tools a Mess LOL

 

Great tips Benny. Just did the sons and the 1/2" hole broke out. Its an after market one he lost on the road. Got it changed but now it is not putting out what DC power said it would. Only seeing about 13.6 volts on the scan gauge. Have to take it back out and have it tested, I'm not to far from them anyway.