When I first start my motor, it seems like it not only takes too long to show oil pressure, but that it's actually getting longer from when I first started running the motor.

It is so cold that in order for it to keep running without shaking itself to death I typically pull the choke out enough for the truck to initially idle at around 1100-1500 rpm, and slow it down(with the choke) immediatelly.

NOW, even with those high rpms, it seems like it takes about 2-4 seconds for the oil pressure gauge(it's a mechanical unit) to budge but quickly shoots to 50-55 thereafter. It did this with the Baldwin filters I used before, so I switched to Mobile1 thinking the drainback valves might be bad on the Baldwins, but no. No change in how fast it builds pressure.

Is that normal? I just can't stand the thought of my brand new bearings and journals spinning at 1500 rpm with no oil for 2 or so seconds every morning, or time that I start it after not running for half an hour. It's terrible...and it's a new engine(not only should the clearances be tighter, but the pump is new also), shouldn't the pressure build up within half a second or so?

Normal, or bad news?

 

Cold? In Bakerspatch? It doesn't get that cold ever there does it?

What oil are you running?

Keep in mind that the engine bearings are not "dry" when you start it.

There's a fair amount of residual oi in there.

I wonder though if your oil pick-up tube is loose, has a hole in it or the pickup tube -connection at the pan is sucking a little air.

That *could* lengthen the amount of time to prime the oil pump each time.

I use Baldwin filters exclusively on everything I own, especially my GMC diesel Suburban which requires a filter with an anti-drainback valve. If it didn't have it the oil would completely drain out of the filter and it would be empty on every start.

The Ford Y-block Filter (B2) doesn't really need an anti-drainback because the filter is not upside-down etc... But the B2 does have one.


<table style="padding-right: 5px;" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="80%" align="Right"><tbody><tr> <td class="PartSpec1" valign="Top" width="20%" align="Left"> Descriptions: </td> <td class="PartSpec2" valign="Top" width="50%" align="Left"> Full-Flow Lube Spin-on (Also Used as Hydraulic or Transmission) </td> </tr> <tr> </tr> <tr> </tr> <tr> </tr> <tr> </tr> <tr> <td class="PartSpec1" valign="Top" width="20%" align="Left"> Contains: </td> <td class="PartSpec2" valign="Top" width="50%" align="Left"> Anti-Drainback Valve
8 PSID Front End By-Pass Valve </td> </tr> <tr> </tr> <tr> <td class="PartSpec1" valign="Top" width="20%" align="Left"> Fits: </td> <td class="PartSpec2" valign="Top" width="50%" align="Left"> Chrysler, Ford, Mazda, Toyota Automotive, Light-Duty Trucks; Allis Chalmers, Case, Caterpillar, Ford, John Deere, New Holland Equipment </td> </tr> <tr> </tr> <tr> <td class="PartSpec1" valign="Top" width="20%" align="Left"> Replaces: </td> <td class="PartSpec2" valign="Top" width="50%" align="Left"> Allis Chalmers 7023700-0; Case A146696; Ford B7A-6714-A, C9NN-6714-A </td> </tr> <tr> </tr> <tr> </tr> <tr> <td class="PartSpec1" valign="Top" width="20%" align="Left"> Thread: </td> <td class="PartSpec2" valign="Top" width="50%" align="Left"> 3/4-16</td> </tr> <tr> </tr> <tr> <td class="PartSpec1" valign="Top" width="20%" align="Left"> O.D.: </td> <td class="PartSpec2" valign="Top" width="50%" align="Left"> 3 11/16 (93.7) </td> </tr> <tr> </tr> <tr> </tr> <tr> </tr> <tr> </tr> <tr> <td class="PartSpec1" valign="Top" width="20%" align="Left"> Length: </td> <td class="PartSpec2" valign="Top" width="50%" align="Left"> 5 13/32 (137.3) </td> </tr> <tr> </tr> <tr> </tr> <tr> </tr> <tr> <td class="PartSpec1" valign="Top" width="20%" align="Left"> I. Gskt.: </td> <td class="PartSpec2" valign="Top" width="50%" align="Left"> G381-A </td> </tr> <tr> </tr> <tr> </tr> <tr> </tr> <tr> </tr> <tr> </tr> <tr> </tr> <tr> </tr> <tr> <td class="PartSpec1" valign="Top" width="20%" align="Left"> Related to: </td> <td class="PartSpec2" valign="Top" width="50%" align="Left"> B34 (Short Version) </td></tr></tbody></table>



















I don't think you have a lot to worry about unless you're running 50wt oil in cold wx.


By the way, if you don't have a set of Baldwin catalogs, you can view their E-catalog here; Baldwin Filters | Home

 

Well, I have the 223, which has the filter side mounted.

Secondly, yeah, 30-40º is cold to me, heh. Call me a wimp....
I was running strait 30w up until a couple weeks ago, now I run 10w-30.

I hope my pickup tube isn't malfunctioning in some way!
Thank you.

 

I think I have the answer. You have a mechanical gauge and they get so called
water logged which means the tubing gets full of oil and in cold weather the gauge
gets real sluggish. Example here in N England it is now 8* I have a loader and the
engine is in the rear so the gauge tubing is a little long and starting it takes about
a minute for the gauge to even move. So time to time I have to blow out this tubing,
so there is no oil in the pipe. After thats done, when starting oil pressure pushes against
air in the pipe. I never figured out how this oil manages to get in there but it happens.
On one of my trucks I added mech. gauge with that white plastic tubing and I can see
there is no oil in this tubing and this gauge is instant. Oil pushes against air-the gauge
is the end of the road, thats how it should work.

 

This is an old fashioned gauge where the oil tube goes strait to the gauge. Looks normal to me.

But yes, it makes sense now.

 

Yup - Bakers-ville gets pretty cold sometimes. 2-4 seconds wouldn't bother me. Takes that much time after an oil-change.

 

But it shouldn't take that long normally.

I would try another gage though, just to verify it.

 

Yeah. You need an anti-drainback filter.

10w-30 should give you very quick oil flow. .........it probably won't affect how quickly the gage registers though....


That would depend on where in the system you're "looking" at the pressure.

 

From what I can tell, every modern oil filter comes with an anti-drainback valve.

 

Nope, usually only Ford filters (FL-1, etc). Historically because GM filters hang down. Ford likes to put them off the side so you dribble oil all over everything when you do a change. You may be thinking of the bypass valve.

 

^Man, I've done more research on oil filters than anyone should do over a lifetime. And I even learned about them in a college automotive class.
Maybe I don't know a lot......but....
I know for a fact that any filter I've ever used uses an anti drainback valve, but I didn't want to say such things without my proof that I've gathered over many years.

Opinions and Recommendations - Oil Filters Revealed - MiniMopar Resources
Oil Filters Revealed - MiniMopar Resources
NTPOG Oil Filter Review
Motorcycle Oil Filter Comparison (They are even blatantly shown in the picture, round rubber ring)
Motorcycle Oil Filters & Air Filters

Not enough, give me an hour, I'll have more,


Albuq, I must contest and say that YES, every modern oil filter comes with an anti-drainback valve.


EDIT: None of that is my point. My point is I wonder why oil pressure might be an issue with filters with an anti-drainback valve. But I got some great clues above, so unless things get a little worse, I think I'll just let live and let die for now.

 

Almost done with your alternator bracket Nick. Will finish 2morrow.

 

I was just wondering if your engine oil filter was converted to a spin on? If so be
sure the adaptor drain hole is up. I have bought these in the past from Napa and
they are stamped TOP so filter oil doesnt drain back. Just a thought. As said above
I would screw another gauge right to the block and try it.

 

Some things to think about -- the larger the line to the gauge = quicker response time, some gauges have an orfice in the inlet side to prevent gauge damage due to pressure spikes. This orfice often becomes clogged and slows gauge response time. The pressure line should be burped to help with gauge response time. I don't trust the plastic /nylon tubing in the gauge kits, they kink and melt too easy, and break in cold weather. I use copper/ steel / aeroquip hose instead. Less chance of failure. They also sell braided stainless aeroquip hoses for gauge hookup if you like the Bling. I sometimes go the the hyd hose store and have a custom line fabbed up.

Have A Great Day-----------Hotwrench

 

After looking through my Baldwin Product Guide, it appears that MOST of the lube filters have anti-drain-back valves but not all.

I don't think the presence or absence of an anti drainback valve would affect oil pressure at all. It's just a rubber flapper-type checkvalve to prevent the filter from draining.



I believe he said he's using a Baldwin....If he's using a Baldwin B2 (which is the correct one for just about ALL the old Ford 6/8's), it DOES have an anti-drainback valve.