Engine Compartment Detailing 101
#31
01-09-2011, 09:47 PM
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ROFL!! The guys at work were wondering what I was laughing at! Excellent!
I've been working on getting the F-Bomb decent. I did try to start and refinished a set of valve covers from my brother's 69 bumpside. His rig's PO put shiny Edelbrocks on so he had these as spares which match my "redneck" valve covers (as you have so cleverly described above!). I spent a whole weekend stripping, straigtening, and painting them VERY carefully. In fact, they're the best pair I have ever re-done. However, when I went to put on the passenger side VC - the danged thing wouldn't settle on the head. I compared the old one and the one I had just spent all weekend on and discovered the installed VC had the baffle clearanced so it would fit over the rockers. I gave up on it and decided to wait til next spring to do the underhood detailing.
Meanwhile, I've been gathering parts at the wrecking yard and swap meets so I should have everything I need (zip ties, convoluted tubing, clamps, relays, wire spools, connectors, etc.) to do a thorough job. I still need to buy a dual battery kit and clean up the passenger inner fender. Plus, my ignition control unit's insulated innards have melted and is now running down the driver's inner fender which I had previously finished.
I thought I took some shots of my 68 Stang's engine but can't find them. For a six banger, the engine looks, in my opinion, really nice.
To keep ya'll motivated, here are some shots of a very clean FE:
I've been working on getting the F-Bomb decent. I did try to start and refinished a set of valve covers from my brother's 69 bumpside. His rig's PO put shiny Edelbrocks on so he had these as spares which match my "redneck" valve covers (as you have so cleverly described above!). I spent a whole weekend stripping, straigtening, and painting them VERY carefully. In fact, they're the best pair I have ever re-done. However, when I went to put on the passenger side VC - the danged thing wouldn't settle on the head. I compared the old one and the one I had just spent all weekend on and discovered the installed VC had the baffle clearanced so it would fit over the rockers. I gave up on it and decided to wait til next spring to do the underhood detailing.
Meanwhile, I've been gathering parts at the wrecking yard and swap meets so I should have everything I need (zip ties, convoluted tubing, clamps, relays, wire spools, connectors, etc.) to do a thorough job. I still need to buy a dual battery kit and clean up the passenger inner fender. Plus, my ignition control unit's insulated innards have melted and is now running down the driver's inner fender which I had previously finished.
I thought I took some shots of my 68 Stang's engine but can't find them. For a six banger, the engine looks, in my opinion, really nice.
To keep ya'll motivated, here are some shots of a very clean FE:
#32
01-09-2011, 10:29 PM
I'm painting my power booster and master cyl with duplicolor enamel and the paint seams to get all dimpley ,what gives ? i sanded all rust gone degreased,cleaned off the degreaser ,does primer help the paint that much not to sound like a moron?but I would like to get this all fingered out be for i do the whole motor compartment
... sounds like your dealing with "fisheyes" cuz there is still some wax or oil on the surfaces. Use some PPG Acryli-Clean DX 330. You can use acetone if the booster is bare steel. Wipe/work it on and then wipe it off with a different rag.
I've had the same issue in the past and it is possible through work through some light fisheyes with very light paint coats. Primer is a good thing IMO.
#33
01-09-2011, 10:32 PM
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Try some adhesion promoter. You can get adhesion promoter at pretty much any parts store. What are you using to wipe the part down with? We use Wax and Grease Remover at the body shop and it always seems to work. You may just have difficulties with the master cylinder and brake booster because of the fact that brake fluid and paint don't like to be near each other. Hope that helps.
#35
01-10-2011, 09:31 PM
I think ya got two things going on with the paint job:
1. The grainines. I assume the booster was rusty and that it was sanded. It looks like alot of pitting which a primer-surfacer could have smoothed out after a couple of coats and wet-sanding with 400.
2. Fisheyes. Rust is porous so the clean-up may not have been that thorough. Was it completely dry before the paint was applied. A solvent-based cleaner (like PPG DX 330) is way better rather than a surfactant like Simple Green.
Since it is what it is at this point, I'd scuff, clean, and reshoot the color and see how it goes.
Blue booster? Do you really want to attract attention to it? Okay. However, I suggest Krylon Semi-flat Black #1613.
1. The grainines. I assume the booster was rusty and that it was sanded. It looks like alot of pitting which a primer-surfacer could have smoothed out after a couple of coats and wet-sanding with 400.
2. Fisheyes. Rust is porous so the clean-up may not have been that thorough. Was it completely dry before the paint was applied. A solvent-based cleaner (like PPG DX 330) is way better rather than a surfactant like Simple Green.
Since it is what it is at this point, I'd scuff, clean, and reshoot the color and see how it goes.
Blue booster? Do you really want to attract attention to it? Okay. However, I suggest Krylon Semi-flat Black #1613.
#36
01-10-2011, 09:49 PM
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I think ya got two things going on with the paint job:
1. The grainines. I assume the booster was rusty and that it was sanded. It looks like alot of pitting which a primer-surfacer could have smoothed out after a couple of coats and wet-sanding with 400.
2. Fisheyes. Rust is porous so the clean-up may not have been that thorough. Was it completely dry before the paint was applied. A solvent-based cleaner (like PPG DX 330) is way better rather than a surfactant like Simple Green.
Since it is what it is at this point, I'd scuff, clean, and reshoot the color and see how it goes.
Blue booster? Do you really want to attract attention to it? Okay. However, I suggest Krylon Semi-flat Black #1613.
1. The grainines. I assume the booster was rusty and that it was sanded. It looks like alot of pitting which a primer-surfacer could have smoothed out after a couple of coats and wet-sanding with 400.
2. Fisheyes. Rust is porous so the clean-up may not have been that thorough. Was it completely dry before the paint was applied. A solvent-based cleaner (like PPG DX 330) is way better rather than a surfactant like Simple Green.
Since it is what it is at this point, I'd scuff, clean, and reshoot the color and see how it goes.
Blue booster? Do you really want to attract attention to it? Okay. However, I suggest Krylon Semi-flat Black #1613.
Last edited by wasowski; 01-10-2011 at 09:52 PM. Reason: pic
#37
01-10-2011, 11:00 PM
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No you dont have to wait 7 days I would say lol. I would take a light sand paper to it to scuff it just a little bit... then use some of the solvent based cleaner like mentioned in the previous post or wax and grease remover. I have had this happen to engine parts that I have been painting and came to the conclusion it is because I did not get all of the grease off.
#39
01-20-2011, 08:28 PM
The measurements are for a MC that is 2.75" x 5.75". You 'll need to get yer own seal but that's a piece you can get from a local parts store's HELP! section or NPD, LMC, etc.
#40
01-20-2011, 08:46 PM
I actually ordered that cover and it is to small,mine is bigger then that? Did they have different sizes or do I have a different master cylinder? Its the one in the pic I posted.
#41
01-20-2011, 09:01 PM
Dunnno man.....What are your measurements?
#42
01-21-2011, 02:14 AM
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#44
03-27-2014, 06:10 PM
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I know this an old thread but its useful i just have a couple paint question. When i first got my truck i did some clean up and paint on the air cleaner, VC, etc. I used some high temp engine paint in the lighter blue but it was like $7 a can at advance auto. I know i need to go back and do a better sanding job and repaint and im trying to locate another snorkel so i can make my air cleaner like yours. I think that looks so awesome. I have the same style air cleaner you do.
What I cant decide is whether I want to use the lighter blue or the darker one. I went to walmart today to look at some candidates and didnt find anything in the light but found a couple of dark ones. The motor is a 410 out of a 66 mercury. Was this originally the light blue? It was basically black by the time i got it.
Heres what i was looking at
Krylon Colormax "true blue" gloss (1910) or Krylon Paint+Primer same color (8920)
Or rustoleum "deep blue" gloss
What I cant decide is whether I want to use the lighter blue or the darker one. I went to walmart today to look at some candidates and didnt find anything in the light but found a couple of dark ones. The motor is a 410 out of a 66 mercury. Was this originally the light blue? It was basically black by the time i got it.
Heres what i was looking at
Krylon Colormax "true blue" gloss (1910) or Krylon Paint+Primer same color (8920)
Or rustoleum "deep blue" gloss
#45
03-27-2014, 06:44 PM
Ya really ought to use a paint specifically formulated for engines and heat which are more resistant to oils and such.
Here are the principles applied and using Rustoleum High Heat engine paint. IMO, my paint is a touch too dark. Oh well, it's what I bought... that's why I went with silver valve covers to lighten it up.:
Here are the principles applied and using Rustoleum High Heat engine paint. IMO, my paint is a touch too dark. Oh well, it's what I bought... that's why I went with silver valve covers to lighten it up.: