Modular V10 (6.8l)  

2006 3v "knocking"?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 11-22-2010, 08:01 PM
dew2loud1's Avatar
dew2loud1
dew2loud1 is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
2006 3v "knocking"?

Hey guys,
I just bought a 2006 F350 supercab long bed 4x4 with a 6spd manual and 4:30 gears with only 102,000 miles on it.
I got a great deal on the truck but it has some "knocking" noises. The dealer said he took it to a mechanic and he thought it was piston slap not rod/main knocking. I've built a lot of motors/hotrods but am not familiar with this engine or any of the modulars at all.

The engine hour meter says it has 3900 hours and it was a construction truck and had a fifth wheel hitch at one point so i'm guessing it was used fairly hard.

The knocking is not real loud but quite noticeable. It does seem to be somewhat load and rpm sensitive.
I'm just wondering where to look with fairly low miles like this.
I just can't imagine the cylinder walls would be worn enough to cause significant piston slap.

Would excessive crankshaft play cause knocking?
What does the timing chain tensioner knocking sound like?

Any other ideas and/or what should i check first?
thanks and sorry for all the questions,
 
  #2  
Old 11-23-2010, 07:50 AM
Johnny Langton's Avatar
Johnny Langton
Johnny Langton is offline
Postmaster
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: SE Texas
Posts: 4,171
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Read here and see if you have the same symptoms:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...r-tapping.html
JL
 
  #3  
Old 11-23-2010, 09:30 AM
dew2loud1's Avatar
dew2loud1
dew2loud1 is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Yeah i checked out that thread last week. I bought a stethoscope and best i can tell the sound is pretty audible at the second to last cylinder on the passenger side. Not that high up in the cylinder head. Obviously the sound was louder when listening through the freezeplug but it seemed to be in that general area.

My main concern is figuring out how serious it is, either way its getting a newer 3v or a cummins swap but i really don't want to send a rod through the block running it into town. If there is an easier cheaper fix i obviously want to go that route to put off replacing the engine right now.
 
  #4  
Old 11-23-2010, 09:44 AM
Johnny Langton's Avatar
Johnny Langton
Johnny Langton is offline
Postmaster
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: SE Texas
Posts: 4,171
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Originally Posted by dew2loud1
Yeah i checked out that thread last week. I bought a stethoscope and best i can tell the sound is pretty audible at the second to last cylinder on the passenger side. Not that high up in the cylinder head. Obviously the sound was louder when listening through the freezeplug but it seemed to be in that general area.

My main concern is figuring out how serious it is, either way its getting a newer 3v or a cummins swap but i really don't want to send a rod through the block running it into town. If there is an easier cheaper fix i obviously want to go that route to put off replacing the engine right now.
Well, my repair would have been only $15 if I had went with my gut instinct and pulled the cam cover to check it out.
It could be one of the chain tensioners allowing the chain to "rattle", or it could possibly be crank end play from a worn thrust bearing. Hard to say unless you've torn into it to see.
JL
 
  #5  
Old 11-23-2010, 09:59 AM
dew2loud1's Avatar
dew2loud1
dew2loud1 is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thats what i was figuring, i don't think the noise is coming from the top end but i'll do some more poking around to see and maybe pull the covers and check.

For checking the crankshaft endplay can it be done roughly without pulling the pan? And would this cause a "knock" higher up in the motor / piston slap on those back cylinders?
 
  #6  
Old 11-23-2010, 10:10 AM
Johnny Langton's Avatar
Johnny Langton
Johnny Langton is offline
Postmaster
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: SE Texas
Posts: 4,171
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Originally Posted by dew2loud1
Thats what i was figuring, i don't think the noise is coming from the top end but i'll do some more poking around to see and maybe pull the covers and check.

For checking the crankshaft endplay can it be done roughly without pulling the pan? And would this cause a "knock" higher up in the motor / piston slap on those back cylinders?
You can check endplay with a dial indicator and a prybar using the damper as a reference. not the easiest way, but it CAN be done that way.
I dunno how much resonance that could cause-or how the noise would sound.
JL
 
  #7  
Old 11-23-2010, 06:02 PM
krewat's Avatar
krewat
krewat is offline
Site Administrator
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Long Island USA
Posts: 42,561
Received 298 Likes on 157 Posts
Since you have a manual tranny, you can easily check if the crank endplay is causing it.

When it's at it's loudest, press on the clutch pedal until you feel resistance. This pressure from the throwout bearing SHOULD quiet the noise noticeably if it is indeed the crank endplay. The more you step on the clutch, the more it should quiet down. If it doesn't have any effect, it's probably (most likely, 99% sure) not crank endplay.
 
  #8  
Old 11-23-2010, 08:20 PM
dew2loud1's Avatar
dew2loud1
dew2loud1 is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Well pushing in the clutch didn't seem to quiet it down, i was really hoping that was it.

Any other ideas to check out to pinpoint it, do the rods/mains normally have issues with these trucks. Would anything else be causing a piston slap sounding knock.
 
  #9  
Old 11-23-2010, 08:27 PM
Johnny Langton's Avatar
Johnny Langton
Johnny Langton is offline
Postmaster
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: SE Texas
Posts: 4,171
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts
Originally Posted by dew2loud1
do the rods/mains normally have issues with these trucks.
No, not normally. If the previous owner ran it low on oil, or over revved it, they might have spun a rod bearing. Being a manual-it's possible that they managed to downshift far lower than they intended to causing damage. The aluminum bearings used on modulars last virtually forever if the engine is maintained properly, but they are not forgiving if you over rev the engine, or if you fail to keep the oil changed. If you don't find anything on the top end loose, I'd check there next.
JL
 
  #10  
Old 11-24-2010, 06:55 AM
krewat's Avatar
krewat
krewat is offline
Site Administrator
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Long Island USA
Posts: 42,561
Received 298 Likes on 157 Posts
And do check the REAL oil pressure with a real gauge. If it falls off to almost nothing when it gets warm, that's usually an indication of bad bearings, although one or two might not provide that much of a drop-off to be really noticeable.
 
  #11  
Old 10-30-2013, 08:57 PM
Brooce_AZ's Avatar
Brooce_AZ
Brooce_AZ is offline
5th Wheeling
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 27
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Zombie thread, but I have to try...

Was this ever resolved?

I have a similar problem.
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Galendor
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
12
11-05-2015 03:01 PM
matttrox
2004 - 2008 F150
3
04-20-2015 08:06 PM
F350Man79
1999 to 2016 Super Duty
11
07-28-2014 07:59 PM
F-ReV
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
4
06-09-2014 10:45 AM
G Ford Fan
Modular V8 (4.6L, 5.4L)
2
12-21-2013 05:37 AM



Quick Reply: 2006 3v "knocking"?



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:48 AM.