6.7L Power Stroke Diesel 2011-current Ford Powerstroke 6.7 L turbo diesel engine

SEIC (High Idle) MOD PICTURES

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  #271  
Old 12-21-2014, 01:31 PM
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Need a little help. My high idle used to work. Have it hooked up with the pot. It quit working and I found a white with violet striped wire in the PTO wire bundle that is just hanging and disconnected. The wire bundle has the wire labeled as parking brake and I think that the loose wire may be the problem. All wires to hi idle and upfitter are still connected and have power from upfitter. Anyone know where that white/violet wire goes?
 
  #272  
Old 12-21-2014, 02:17 PM
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I was just looking at a drawing of the upfitter switches and I see a White/violet wire running from the upfitter relay box to #3 upfitter.

Not sure that is what you are looking at? But it is all I have at this point.
 
  #273  
Old 12-21-2014, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Tim Young
I was just looking at a drawing of the upfitter switches and I see a White/violet wire running from the upfitter relay box to #3 upfitter.

Not sure that is what you are looking at? But it is all I have at this point.
Thanks Tim. I see that wire on the upfitter diagram. If that was not connected I would not get power from #3, which I do.
 
  #274  
Old 01-08-2015, 02:31 PM
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I've been reading through this and have been planning to make the mod. I just can't understand why this wasn't a factory option like other manufacturers. Here's the strange part....

I come out this morning and it was about 12* (3 with wind chill), and I start the truck and after about 30 seconds idling the idle increases to around 1100RPMs all by itself without me touching the throttle. It took me by surprise, so while sitting there idling I pull out the owners manual and in the Diesel supplement booklet I read the following:

In cold weather below 32°F (0°C), the engine may slowly increase to a higher idle speed if left idling in P (Park). As the engine warms-up, the engine sound level decreases due to the activation of PCM-controlled sound reduction features.

So does this mean that there is a high idle feature from the factory and if so what year did it start?
 
  #275  
Old 01-08-2015, 02:40 PM
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I also want to add that when I step on the brake the idle return back to normal
 
  #276  
Old 01-08-2015, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by 93-331-29PSI
I also want to add that when I step on the brake the idle return back to normal
Sort of, yes. Like the book says in cold weather the engine will increase to help with warm up, but once engine is warm it will not continue to due so. This has been around since at least the 99 model year and older if you had one of those lcd screens down by transmission hump.

The seic that this thread talks about will let you increase rpm at your command. Helpful when cooling interior with ac, keeping batteries charged when jumping something, reducing wet stacking during extended idling. Etc.

Sent from my SM-G900V using IB AutoGroup
 
  #277  
Old 01-17-2015, 03:28 PM
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i got one from bd diesel it is a poteniometer with an off position wired in to wire that is ignition it was a easy install so i can turn it off set it to were i want works on the remote start it was about 70 bucks in my 08 i went and got the potentiometer soldered the wires etc but i had no time so went this way
 
  #278  
Old 01-17-2015, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by EpicCowlick
Someone please give some background on why a high idle is useful? I thought it was only for PTO applications & such. Why, why, WHY I ask?
The high idle feature (SEIC - Stationary Enhanced Idle Control) is useful in ambulance chassis configurations. 1,200 RPM provides increased amperage output from the alternator(s) to support air conditioning, heating, lighting, radios, and medical equipment.
 
  #279  
Old 01-20-2015, 11:52 AM
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When you hook this up, are you supplying power to the circuit or just bridging? If you're supplying power to it, is there a specific amp rating you need to have connected or will 1 amp do?

What I plan to do is combine a few small circuits (radar detector, cell phone amp, etc) to a smaller micro switch pod built into where the "pocket" is on the drivers side of the console, and use aux 3 (10A) for a master on/off switch for that pod. I don't need/want the variable RPM settings, so I may just go with a standard on/off switch for SEIC.
 
  #280  
Old 01-20-2015, 07:11 PM
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I believe applying power. on my 2006 F350, Aux 1 and 2 are 30A. And Aux 3 and 4 are 10A. You should find some detail in your owners' manual. There are differences between model years. Our Aux 4 is set to provide 1,200 RPM period - no variation. Ours needed a jumper wire from behind the glove box and the wiring behind the fuse block. And I needed a Ford tech to do that. Neither the tech nor I could understand why that was needed.
 
  #281  
Old 01-20-2015, 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by txazguy
When you hook this up, are you supplying power to the circuit or just bridging? If you're supplying power to it, is there a specific amp rating you need to have connected or will 1 amp do?

What I plan to do is combine a few small circuits (radar detector, cell phone amp, etc) to a smaller micro switch pod built into where the "pocket" is on the drivers side of the console, and use aux 3 (10A) for a master on/off switch for that pod. I don't need/want the variable RPM settings, so I may just go with a standard on/off switch for SEIC.
Originally Posted by RBMiller
I believe applying power. on my 2006 F350, Aux 1 and 2 are 30A. And Aux 3 and 4 are 10A. You should find some detail in your owners' manual. There are differences between model years. Our Aux 4 is set to provide 1,200 RPM period - no variation. Ours needed a jumper wire from behind the glove box and the wiring behind the fuse block. And I needed a Ford tech to do that. Neither the tech nor I could understand why that was needed.

Just look back in this thread......all the answers are there. You do Have to use a resistor in series with the power connection.
 
  #282  
Old 06-08-2015, 01:15 PM
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Hi Guys
I want to do the high idle but I just want to check that I have to use a resistor. There is no other way of wiring this right?. Just looking for simple, on my 08 it was just 1 wire to an upfitter
 
  #283  
Old 06-08-2015, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by irly
Hi Guys
I want to do the high idle but I just want to check that I have to use a resistor. There is no other way of wiring this right?. Just looking for simple, on my 08 it was just 1 wire to an upfitter
If you are a 2011+, you need a poteniometer and the instructions are very straight forward.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-pictures.html
 
  #284  
Old 06-08-2015, 03:33 PM
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Thank you I just wanted to check to see the easiest way to do this, I dont need to adjust the idle I just want to kick it up. I used it all the time whenever I used my winch
Thanks again
 
  #285  
Old 01-03-2016, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by mvedepo
Yep. Originally was using the BROWN/WHITE wire. Needed the WHITE/BROWN wire. Works like a charm with both setups! Thanks for the input!!!
I'm new to this forum, and like the level of expertise I've seen here so far.

Excellent instructions! !! I just installed this with the potentiometer in my truck. Works great. One question I have is (and I apologize if this is obvious and I just don't see it) is there any reason to be concerned about the torque converter being locked while the high idle is engaged? I know that this is the purpose of the SEIC circuit and people use the PTO all the time, but will this effect anything else with the transmission, ie increase fluid change intervals.

I like that it adds a small load to the engine when engaged which should help keep EGTs up, I'm just not interested in increasing wear on other parts unnecessarily.

Thanks for the excellent write up.

Jay.
 


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