I agree it is strange math, but it is true of every one of these trucks I've seen. You just keep peeling the onion until you get to something you can live with.

However, I've never seen one magically become a 4wd. The transfer case and associated lever haven't ever just appeared. But, they do bolt on - albeit to a different tranny. As does the front axle.

 

Got the cowl leaks fixed. Even got the w/washer working - bad plug end.

Gary, saw a 53 Chev in Martinsville yesterday. Nice copper metallic paint. Been modified, wish I had my camera with me. Would have waited for the owner but, wifey said time to go.

 

I like that Chevy just the way it is.
WAY better than all these fake 'Rust'o'Mod' paint jobs.

Probably put more modern brakes and tires underneath it, but that's about all.

 

Thanks, George. I'm going to compile a list of how people have built those trucks, so info is helpful. However, there are a bunch of them out there so getting the info isn't too difficult.

So far what I've found is that the majority of them are "belly buttons". IOW, 350/350's.

 

A picture of this thing comes up on Wikipedia when you Google "patina". And the patina is 3D. In fact, you can literally tell which side was on the north.

 

Gary,

Stovebolt -- Old GM - GMC - Chevy Trucks! is very good; & also OldGMCtrucks.com - Restoration & Preservation Resource for old GMCs - Home Page

I've used both a lot while doing my WW2 GMC.
Yours looks in great shape - are we going to see a hi-po 270/302?

 

270/302 would be nice.
Sticking with the Chevy, ditch the 216 splash oiling and go to a 235 or 261 (rare). Used to drag race a 56 Chev 2 door 235 3 spd 4:56 rear. Put in a Corvette 6 cyl cam, headers , plus other mods. Loved beating those v-8 Mustangs....
Clifford Performance :: Make 6 = 8

 

The 270 or 302 would be my preference as I doubt many could tell the diff between that and the Stovebolt. The extra cubes and main bearings with those engines would be much appreciated. And the only way I'd rebuild the 216 is if we are going for a full-on restoration, which is not my preferred approach.

Actually, I've already rebuilt a 216 in my life - using the term "rebuilt" quite loosely. In high school a buddy had a '37 Chevy sedan and one day we got it out on the sand around the Arkansas River and got it stuck. That instilled in us the desire to beat the sand by build a "dune buggy". So we bought a '47 Chevy panel from the salvage and set to work. They pulled the body and I "rebuilt" the engine by installing new rings and main bearings, and removing the shims from the rods. Then we shortened the frame 3' and put dual rear wheels on it. With a bus bench seat welded on we hit the sand and discovered we could go just about anywhere.

And, in doing that we learned a LOT of things. One is that a 235 head gasket won't work very well on a 216 as the larger bore uncovers a water passage. Another is that jumping a 6 volt battery with a 12 volt battery isn't a good idea - unless you enjoy a surfuric acid rain when the 6 volt blows up. And third, welding can be done with oxy and coat hangers - we didn't have a single crack after much abuse.

 

I have a 75 k5 blazer with a 4 inch lift. has a 350 4 bolt with a turbo 350 all rebuilt in 2005. Driven 1,000 miles maybe until I got it. Has a clear title, body is shot but driveline is great.


I have no use for it, give me what I paid for it 500 bucks and I will sign it over to you.

 

Such an offer! I'll talk to my son about it, but we may be far enough from ready to make a decision to miss the deal. However, I do appreciate the offer. It would give us a good starting point. But, is a 4wd TH350 like a C6 with a different tail housing and the t-case bolted on? Or did Chevy use a divorced t-case?

In any event, thanks! We will consider it.

 

It is just sitting in our pasture. When they rebuilt the transmission, they cross threaded a bolt hole on the pan. It was leaking transmission fluid like crazy. I bought the truck and helicoiled the hole. No more leaks. I have never driven it.
i believe it has dana 40? Axles. I think it also has a quadrajet carb with an edelbrock performer intake. It sounds strong.
I did give the radiator to a friend that was in a bind.
It would have to be trailered.

 

You may be able to get some money out of it from the top and the rollbar.

It has the top that comes off all the way to the windshield. Most only come off behind the driver.
the roll bar is exposed inside the truck where the others have it built into the body.

 

Again, you make it intriguing. But, it can't be shipped? (Although I shudder to think how you would pack it. )

 

I changed my oil and XL-12 transfer case fluid only to discover my used Saginaw steering pump is leaking.

Advance has the reman Cardone with lifetime guarantee and magnet in the reservoir on sale for $40.99 ($18 off)
Of course, I'd just got back from there.

Walmart, 6qts of Motorcraft diesel oil and an FL-1A for $26.97 otd..

 

It took two trips to autozone, but I replaced the heater hoses which were a source of a small coolant leak. I think the heater core will be next!

Two 5/8 hoses, brand new.





My problem was here: wrong diameter hose for this fitting.





The old hoses.....





1 ft of 3/4 hose and a reducer later, done.





The adapter area.





Driver side engine shot.





Passenger side shot.