What have you done to your truck today?
Delivered a 1960's Sears suburban tractor to an old friend. Drove on the highway, with Liz's 300/NP/ Sterling 10.25 drive train churning it's guts out to go 65.
Spent some time figuring out an alternate, understandably highway free route back home.
Shiveron, Ulysses is a great name for a truck. Which carburetor do you have?
-James Huston
Spent some time figuring out an alternate, understandably highway free route back home.
Shiveron, Ulysses is a great name for a truck. Which carburetor do you have?
-James Huston
I pulled out the spanners today and went under the bonnet to work on a few oily bits.
My idle stop solenoid arrived today so I went about getting it installed. Fairly easy really, with the most difficult part in the adjustment.
I'm sure many know how these things work, but just to share for those that don't..
The idle stop solenoid actually replaces, or overrides the idle stop screw. When using this solenoid, you need to back out the idle stop screw so it no longer comes into play.
The solenoid is energized by KEY ON power and at that point, will extend to open up the throttle plate just a bit; just like the idle set screw does (or did). You need to adjust (turn in or out) the idle stop solenoid to set your idle speed.
Once the key is turned off, the solenoid de-energizes and retracts, allowing the throttle plate to snap all the way shut.
When using the idle screw, the plate stays open just a bit when the engine is shut down. Because of this, some fuel can get sucked in the engine after the ignition is shut off. If there are hot spots, it can cause dieseling or engine run-on.
The idea behind the idle stop solenoid (anti-dieseling solenoid) is that as soon as the key is turned off, the throttle plate closes all the way and will NOT allow fuel to get sucked in. No fuel, no run-on.
Pretty simple and, in my view, pretty slick solution. And guess what? It worked slicker than slick on my truck. The run-on issue is intermittent, but with the solenoid in place I can already tell a difference; engine shut down is positive. It might be too early to say but I think it fixed the problem.
Job Done
One more off the list.
My idle stop solenoid arrived today so I went about getting it installed. Fairly easy really, with the most difficult part in the adjustment.
I'm sure many know how these things work, but just to share for those that don't..
The idle stop solenoid actually replaces, or overrides the idle stop screw. When using this solenoid, you need to back out the idle stop screw so it no longer comes into play.
The solenoid is energized by KEY ON power and at that point, will extend to open up the throttle plate just a bit; just like the idle set screw does (or did). You need to adjust (turn in or out) the idle stop solenoid to set your idle speed.
Once the key is turned off, the solenoid de-energizes and retracts, allowing the throttle plate to snap all the way shut.
When using the idle screw, the plate stays open just a bit when the engine is shut down. Because of this, some fuel can get sucked in the engine after the ignition is shut off. If there are hot spots, it can cause dieseling or engine run-on.
The idea behind the idle stop solenoid (anti-dieseling solenoid) is that as soon as the key is turned off, the throttle plate closes all the way and will NOT allow fuel to get sucked in. No fuel, no run-on.
Pretty simple and, in my view, pretty slick solution. And guess what? It worked slicker than slick on my truck. The run-on issue is intermittent, but with the solenoid in place I can already tell a difference; engine shut down is positive. It might be too early to say but I think it fixed the problem.
Job Done
One more off the list.
Actually, there is a specified slow idle speed with the solenoid disconnected, generally around 550-600 rpm so the throttle plates don't stick.
Whilst working on your lorry, did you take spanner twixt thumb and forefinger?
Whilst working on your lorry, did you take spanner twixt thumb and forefinger?
Last edited by 85lebaront2; 10-25-2014 at 06:36 PM. Reason: Added line.
This is true; the curb idle screw is adjusted just so the plate is cracked. Enough to keep it from sticking, but not so much as to allow fuel to get sucked in. It seems to be a balancing act.
100 rattle cans with a pistol grip?
Went over to replace the EGR spacers and carb-mounting gasket. Found that the leak prompting those changes was no longer leaking. Left carb on truck (still idles like ****). Let my friend convince me to let him weld the old choke tube to the intake manifold. This, friends, was a mistake. It looks like ****, and in the process his welder killed something related to the starter. I'm starting with the relay because it's right there, and cheap, but having gone through the Chilton manual, I don't think I'm gonna get lucky. I'm starting to suspect my friend is less competent than we both had hoped.
But, I got the truck moved over to his house by towing it behind his truck. I now know the speedometer works, and that all four tires are no longer round. I'm gonna need a stronger drink to deal with this truck (and my own incompetence). Someone hide my wallet, please.
But, I got the truck moved over to his house by towing it behind his truck. I now know the speedometer works, and that all four tires are no longer round. I'm gonna need a stronger drink to deal with this truck (and my own incompetence). Someone hide my wallet, please.