Installed a new from junk yard Ford front emblem.

 

Wow! What a difference.

 

Haven't done anything to the truck today buy drive it. But, I did do plugs, wires, air filter, coolant hoses, cooling system flush, thermostat and refill the cooling system on the Miata today. New battery arrived. I ordered a Deka gold for it, and it says it was made 3/17. Heh, must be from the future. I also found the original sales receipt along with the other warranty information. This car has every single option available, including limited slip. A/C was an $850 option

 

Got the last door body filler sanded and ready for primer them moved on to the beer can roof.


Had to strip the roof down to bare metal, looked like someone walked all over the roof. It had filler all over it that was lifting because of rust under it. Also found rust under the paint. Once stripped I turned it in to a porcupine to pull the low parts up.




Pulled the low spots up and on the plus side no more beer canning of the roof.
Because of the rust on the roof I treated the full roof to Oxy-Gone
When it does it's job I can then start with the body filler......oh joy..........not!
Dave ----

 

Got my new passenger side manifold on, exhaust hooked back up, k&n air filter, new ford logo wing nut for the air cleaner, insured the beast, and drove it around a bit.


The new manifold in, thankyou summit!



New wing nut via amazon.



Here it is next to my dads 77 f150.

 

Looking good, I installed the same manifold on my truck last summer. There's a good chance you're smarter than me and already thought of this, but make sure all those plugs are tight. They're only finger tight as shipped. There are 4 on the top and 1 on the side near the outlet. A plug worked itself loose ( I never thought to check them) and made one heck of a racket.

 

Yeah i made sure to check them and tightened those bad boys down real good before i installed the manifold, unfortunately i found my drivers side manifold is going to need to be replaced when i get a chance. Tuning the carb today, found a pinhole by the #6 piston on it. Come on payday lol.
But she drives good steereings a little stiff, so's the pedal but i can live with it for now.

 

Looks good where did you get them (Leds). Having a booger of a time getting my hand up in there to unhook the main connector into the dash panel..

 

Well, after being in Nicaragua for two weeks we got home last night and I got to touch all 4 Ford trucks today. First, I did a bit of work on Rusty, getting him ready for sale. One problem he had was a broken rivet on the bottom of the passenger's side mirror. Problem solved.





But, the next problem wasn't quite as easy to solve. What do you see in this pic?





And then I checked on Big Blue. Looks like he's got more than one leak. The dark puddle in the front appears to engine oil that has dripped from the clutch cover. And the light puddle seems to have come from the transmission, although I'm not sure exactly where it is leaking. The investigation continues.....

 

Well, let's see, some one drove one of the trucks and looks like it was left with the key in the ignition and it appears to be on. Third problem, can't help with the transmission, but the oil leak looks like the usual 460 rear seal issue.

 

Not only is the truck "on", but the door is locked. And only one set of keys. Can you spell AAA? Took him three minutes. Those slide locks aren't as easy as the pin locks.

As for the oil leaks, tell me more about the 460 rear seal issue?

 

How hard could it be to fix?...

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...on-pulled.html

Highway flares optional.

 

Gary, the 460 rear main seal was a split rope seal and was later serviced with a 2 piece rubber seal, probably similar to the 335 series engines. The issue is getting to it in situ.

First the engine has to be raised as high as you can get it, with the emission system removed and carbureted it probably isn't as bad as mine would be. After it is up (if you remove the upper radiator bolts, the fan will lift the shroud and radiator saving draining to cooling system) both motor mounts need to be removed so the pan will come off.

After the motor mounts are off, remove the pan bolts and lower it as far as possible, then working through the gap, remove the pickup tube bracket from the main cap bolt/stud and remove the oil pump from the block. Lower the pump and pickup into the pan, slide the pan back and down until it is off.

Loosen the first four main caps enough to allow the crank to drop slightly (1/32") for clearance, remove the rear main cap and you will see the seal, if it was installed correctly there will be a section protruding on one side of the lower and upper sections.

After you get it out, see attached pictures for installation.

 

Thanks, guys.

KR - That was an inspiring read. I read 2 pages and and inspired to remove the engine, if and when I do it.

Bill - Thanks for the info. But I remember replacing the rear main on Bruno's Windsor in the truck and vowed to not do that again. And this would surely be 460/351 = 1.3105 times as much fun.

So, now I have to figure out everywhere it is leaking and plan to address all the spots in one go. The transmission leak is easy - I think the ZF will fix that. But after I posted the pic of the puddles I found one in front. Not as big, and not centered, but a leak nonetheless. It may be from the PS pump, or it may be from the oil filter adapter - which also has oil cooler connections built in and being used.

 

Considering the number of leaks, when you do the ZF5 swap, take the hood off and pull the engine.