78 f150 vaccum question
#1
78 f150 vaccum question
The water pump in my 78 f150 went out the other day so I had to replace it. As I was putting it back together I came across a 3 port vaccum connector with no home. It appears to me there may be a pressure switch missing from the drivers side of the thermostat housing. I have googled, searched here, checked my haynes manual, and I cant find any info. Please see the attached photo. Its a 400 with air conditioning, non catalyst and vaccum hoses everywhere. I started it up and cant feel any vaccum at that port. I would like to straighten it out because it actually tees off there and goes to the vaccum advance on the distributor. Can anybody confirm my suspicions? It appears as if the PO removed it and plugged it. Any help is greatly appreciated.
#3
#5
I got a 79 f150 with a 400, a/t with the same thing going on. I have three hoses coming off that connection that go nowhere, best solution I've come across yet is plugging the lines, seems to make the truck run better. I also had an open line coming off the passenger side of the exhaust manifold ( hot gas recirculation, emission thing about 2" diameter that I covered with a beer can to keep from gassing out the cab of the truck) that I believe may have something to do with at least a couple of the dead-end vacuum lines.
It'd be great to find out for sure where those lines are supposed to go though.. Maybe they'll double gas mileage when hooked up
It'd be great to find out for sure where those lines are supposed to go though.. Maybe they'll double gas mileage when hooked up
#6
#7
there is no reason to run that thing. You should pull it and plug it off...no smog shop on this planet would ever realize it's gone.
the sole purpose was to hold back vacuum until the engine was warm, hence keeping your timing retarded until the engine warmed up...IMO unless building a concourse correct show truck, leave it off and just plug the vacuum advance straight into the bottom port at the base of the carb front/pass side...and if it's a dual vaccum advance dist, leave the port closest to the dist blocked off or replace the can with a single advance style. It'll never have any effect on functional smog tests, because you don't smog your engine when it's cold.
the sole purpose was to hold back vacuum until the engine was warm, hence keeping your timing retarded until the engine warmed up...IMO unless building a concourse correct show truck, leave it off and just plug the vacuum advance straight into the bottom port at the base of the carb front/pass side...and if it's a dual vaccum advance dist, leave the port closest to the dist blocked off or replace the can with a single advance style. It'll never have any effect on functional smog tests, because you don't smog your engine when it's cold.
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#8
Thanks steponit, I hoped you would see my post and offer yours and Mil1ion's advice. What is that website? Also, I agree that most of that vaccum junk can go, especially here in Minnesota where i dont have to get it smog tested. I am merely trying to decide what can go and what cant. I had already debated eliminating a bunch of the vaccum lines, but am not sure which ones I can get by with yet.
#9
there is no reason to run that thing. You should pull it and plug it off...no smog shop on this planet would ever realize it's gone.
the sole purpose was to hold back vacuum until the engine was warm, hence keeping your timing retarded until the engine warmed up...IMO unless building a concourse correct show truck, leave it off and just plug the vacuum advance straight into the bottom port at the base of the carb front/pass side...and if it's a dual vaccum advance dist, leave the port closest to the dist blocked off or replace the can with a single advance style. It'll never have any effect on functional smog tests, because you don't smog your engine when it's cold.
the sole purpose was to hold back vacuum until the engine was warm, hence keeping your timing retarded until the engine warmed up...IMO unless building a concourse correct show truck, leave it off and just plug the vacuum advance straight into the bottom port at the base of the carb front/pass side...and if it's a dual vaccum advance dist, leave the port closest to the dist blocked off or replace the can with a single advance style. It'll never have any effect on functional smog tests, because you don't smog your engine when it's cold.
#10
the distributor would have two advance units coming off, one stacked on another vs the traditional type with just the one unit. However, block off the back unit and it works the same. I "think" the rear most unit was used to actually retard the timing under certain circumstances.
this is the actual unit with dual nipples, but one canister
this is the actual unit with dual nipples, but one canister
#12
Ok, so I need some more help with this. First off, when I consulted my local O'reilys, they said there are 4 different VCV's, and they are listed by color. Secondly, does anybody have a picture of the other distributor available for the 400/c6 for 78? Mine has a hole where that second nipple is. No nipple, and if the nipple is missing I have absolutely no idea where the vacumm line is either.
#14