It will drive fine and then just boggs and will shut off at a stop sign or a light. then you have to fire it back up and good for a few miles then does again. Tonight i recieved a call from one of my workers who never drove this truck before and killed the battery. This is starting to get old with this truck
thanks

 

correct 351
i am not a mechanic i do know little bout trucks i own 18 and this is the only one that has this same problem and it seams that no mechanic can fix it or give me a direct answer to what is causing it

 

They've never checked for codes have they? is your check engine light on? did you read my other post about the Air Temp Sensor? check that out. it should be located on driver side, upper engine area, mounted on front of intake manifold beside distributor. This is from my 93 302. part your looking for shouldn't look too different.


Edit: sorry the part is not highlighted. its the one between the two injectors

 

It sounds to me like a bad PIP sensor in the distributor and it should show up when you read the codes that are stored in memory.
If the memory is clean check the fuel pressure when it does not start. You should also hear the fuel pump run for one second when you turn the key on and it does not start.

/

 

Are you sure subford? I am certain that this is the Air Charge Sensor. This is the the Temp Switch(Sender)


Isn't this the Coolant Sensor? Again this is a '93 302.

 

You are right. I thought it look funny but the place was right for my 95 302.
My 95 has the Air Charge Sensor in the filter box and not on the engine.
The second photo is right also for the computer sensor.

 

It's alright even the pros make mistakes. I'd check the fuel pressure before anything else then but having a bad pip is possible because I replaced mine about 8 months ago. Oh we forgot to ask him this question... Is your engine having a miss?

 

*Groan* EGR valve and sensors have to be replaced as well as the air pump and possibly even more. Once we get that fixed there may even be more wrong Thank God I got this truck for dirt cheap, I love it with all my heart and I couldn't imagine driving anything else but dang is this going to be expensive to fix. Thank you all so much for your help, you were right!!!

 

hmm... i think they are trying to trick you into parts. Gotta be careful and that's why you have us. Air pump I doubt needs to be replaced. What do you think subford? I'm okay with the EGR being replaced. Did you go to a mechanic johnstonwg23? I know your getting tired of us saying this but... Check for codes!!! lol

 

My truck won't idle for long enough for me to check the codes And I really, really appreciate all your help so I promise I'm not getting tired of any of it! I wondered about that air pump too actually so I went to get a second opinion (from a mechanic also) that said he doubted I would need to replace it too. This new mechanic is actually really respectful (hard to find that when youre a girl in a garage) and accomodating. He's the one that mentioned the EGR valve and sensors.

 

How did you get your mechanic to agree to install it for free???

 

it doesn't have to be running. it has codes already stored on it. just put the key on the "on" position just like if you were going to start it.

i know the question wasn't for me but install what the IAC? that's fairly easy to replace i bet you could do that yourself. and yeah i hear you mechanics tend to trick women when they walk in alone into a shop. take a guy with you next time.

 

id check the CHEAP fixes first try to stay away from mechanics as much as possible unless you find one that is actuly good and knows what they ware talking about, id check the fuel filter first real easy to fix
step 1
crawl under the truck on the driver's side and at the frame itll look like a little canister with a one line going in and one line going out
step 2
remove the C clips from the lines and just pull the lines off be carful fuel should come out
step 3
put new one in the correct way, it should have a arrow showing the flow of fuel, put lines on put C clips in a done.

Check the fuel pressure next you should beable to buy a fuel pressure gauge for about 15-20 bucks there is a little valve looks like a air inlet for your tires on the drivers side fuel rail you should have 35-45lbs of fuel pressure

check the distributor pull the cap off but becarful not to undo the wires should only be 2 tiny phillips head screws you will see the rotor mark with a sharpie probly red where the rotor in pointed to mak sure it is exactly where the center of the rotor is pointing or you will have to retim the motor and thats a BITCH. Take a 1/2 wrench and remove thje hold down blot the little braket that holds it down will come off too, then simply pull up.

What it sounds like to me is the teeth on bottom gear of the distributor is worn out ive had this happen to SEVERAL vehicals distributor should only be about 150 bucks hope this helps you,

also id do a tune up on it just in case somtimes fouled wires and or plugs and bad gas will do this trust me

 

error codes (check engine light) only turns on when there are problems with sensors being out of range in other words bad. it should have something stored hopefully but as mentioned before it could be the pip(pick-up coil) inside the dizzy(distributor). that would cause serious misfire so im going more towards some sensors not being able to do their job correctly now which ones i dont know and thats why you check for codes Tried to throw some words like pip and dizzy so you can become familiar with our language ha.

 

robert you've had dizzy's go out on you? were those things abused or what? its not a common problem but could be