WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN A CLASSIC FORD TRUCK

 

PART I

 

 

 

Well, you decided that you want an old Ford truck to “fix up”, eh ? But, you’ve never done anything like this before. You know what you want as a final product, but the “in-between” is a little fuzzy.  Is that where you are ?????

 

You’ve gotten to the point in your life where you have some discretionary spending money and the kids are gone so there is room in the driveway and the wife is at least somewhat agreeable to you taking on another project.  You’ve been watching the want-ads and the “Car Trader”  for a likely candidate and you’ve  seen a few ‘possibles’.  Now… if you only knew what to look for when you go look at them.  Hopefully this epistle will give you some insight into what you need to think about before you put down your money.   The first thing you’ll find here is this “What you buy should depend on what you want to do with it”.  Let me explain…..

 

You’ll find old trucks in all conditions.  They will run the gambit between show trucks and scrap piles.  One of the first things I’ll offer here (with a caveat) is no matter which way you want to take your truck, buy the best truck you can find… not the best you can afford… the best you can find… money spent up front is ‘cheaper’ than money spend down the road repairing/replacing missing parts or work done badly by the previous owner. I cannot stress this enough. Now, the caveat… if you’re rodding the truck… you’re only interested in certain parts and pieces… so if the engine is dead, it doesn’t matter since you’re probably gonna replace it anyway.   You’ll soon learn that exceptions outnumber rules 10 to 1 in this hobby.

 

Classification of vehicles and amount of involvement.

 

The Trucks  at the upper range of your budget (and far beyond) are meticulously  restored or customized… they have trophies and picture books to show every step.  Their owners can quote from memory where every piece and part were purchased and the price (including shipping).These trucks might need some fresh paint or at least a change in color to suit you.  If you only want the ride and not the journey to build it… this is where you need to look. (no dirt under your nails)

 

Some trucks will be previously restored/rebuilt vehicles that appear to be road worthy and ready to go. Most will be, but use caution at this point.  Their definition of ‘road worthy’ and yours may be significantly different.  That is if you’re particular about brakes that slowly fade to the floor and the bungee cord holding the door closed.  At this level… some amount of involvement, sweat, blood, cash outlay and frustration enter into the fun/expenditure equation.

 

Some have been sitting in a field for years, they might have a barn leaning against them or maybe even with a 5” sweet gum tree growing up through the engine compartment or the bed. The previous owner (hereinafter referred to as the P.O.) will smile, pat on the fender and assure you it was running when it was parked saying “All she needs is some fresh gas and a ba-tree”.  At this point you might be considered a masochist and enjoy pain, suffering and financial ruin.  But, it can also be the most rewarding crusade of all when it is complete… besides, you didn’t need that 401-K anyway.

 

If at this point, if you find that you haven’t ‘actually’ done your homework and studied the condition/price range now is the time to do it.  I suggest looking at the ads, search the internet and the old car trader magazines.  Attend a few car/truck shows and talk to owners.  Most times you won’t see a for sale sign on the windshield but subtly placed on a side or back window on a business card or neatly lettered with a phone number on the glass.  Don’t be shocked if you see some that are more than your annual salary.  You can buy a complete car for what some truck builders spend on a paint job.  The more you know, the better equipped you are to invest in one of these beauties.

 

So let’s jump ahead a bit and assume you’ve done your homework and are a wary buyer ready to find your ‘deal’.  Remember the first rule from above…

 

“What you buy should depend on what you want to do with it”

 

Later in the article I will tell you about ‘paths’ and how your ‘choice’ of vehicle types will affect those paths.. i.e. restoration vs. rodding. 

 

If your taste runs toward a restoration… that is, a truck that looks like it just rolled off Henry’s line you want to find a vehicle that is as complete as possible or at the very least has all the ‘repairable’ parts there.  A complete truck with engine and drive train… interior parts and sheet metal that can be repaired or replaced is the best place to start.  Anything less is just going to cost you more money later on …. Maybe lots more.  Some of the year classes had particular parts… emblems, grills, interior trim parts that are not reproduced now-a-days and good pieces are extremely hard to find… If you have to have that model, make sure it’s as complete as possible.

 

If you plan on building a street rod type vehicle you can consider a vehicle without engine/transmission and even the rear end… although moving it will be more difficult without the rear end.  Since you’ll probably be installing a different engine and drive train anyway… the original ‘stuff’ is something you’ll have to do away with and there is a limited market for used engines/transmissions.   So in this case, a good frame and all the sheet metal will be the basis for your choice.

 

Now ??  can you see the first fork in your road ??  More on that later.

 

 

 

 

DO YOU KNOW WHAT YOU’RE LOOKING AT ?

 

For your next homework assignment… read this chapter… there may be a pop quiz later…

 

You’ve found an ad in the Wednesday morning classifieds for a ’54 F-100 in original condition with what you think ‘might’ be an attractive price based on the telephone description given by the seller. (hereinafter referred to as “The #%&$%@ P.O.)  You tell the seller that you are ‘very interested’ hoping he won’t sell it before you get there and  make an appointment for Saturday morning to check it out.  When you arrive you see it sitting outside the barn.  The heavy drag marks from inside the barn give you your first clue..  the brakes are locked up so this truck ain’t been driven in awhile.

 

So here’s a partial list of things to look at and listen to (if you can) while you’re walking around and kicking those freshly inflated tires that show the signs of sitting flat for years.

 

RUST

 

These old trucks are notorious for holding water in certain places.  Water retention in trucks (just like ladies) is a bad thing.  Check the cab corners…all four.  Check the door bottoms, inside and out.  Look at the place where the running boards attach to the fenders…front and back.  Look at the drip rail around the windshield.. and look for rust thru where the roof joins this area.  Inside the doors look where the cab is bolted to the front cab mounts… these are really fun to replace.  Look at the seam at the front of the hood, and feel the inside of this seam… if you can get the hood open.  One more place to look is above the headlights in the fenders.  If there are any floor mats in the truck, or carpet, pull it back if you can and look at the floorboards… or what is left of them. Patch panels for these areas are available at a reasonable cost… but the cost of installing them can be considerable if you’re not proficient in welding and body work.

 

A strong flashlight and a magnet will help you detect damage in hidden areas and some bad/thick bondo applications.  Tap around on the truck with your knuckles till you hear a dull thick sound… that’s probably filler put in way too thick.  Not necessarily a reason to reject the truck… but make a mental note when you tally up your offer.

 

PREVIOUS MODIFICATIONS

 

Check over the front suspension carefully.  If’s original you’ll probably be safe… unless there has been some spring ‘alteration” i.e. heating with a torch to lower the truck.  Look for broken, bent or missing parts.  You should also be wary of any conversions to ifs from another vehicle.  Ask lots of questions about who did it, when, where, professional or homebuilt.  If it’s home done ask about how it was done… measurements taken, alignment problems… steering problems, tire wear, etc. If the installation looks less than professional.. walk on by.  Front suspension alterations, grafts, re-engineerings need to be done by someone with some knowledge of how those things work.  You want good welds with proper penetration and gusseting.  Correct steering connections and steering geometry are a must.  Just because it fit under the fenders doesn’t mean it will work.  Consider driving with your family down the freeway at 65 mph+ with a questionable front suspension before you decide it’s what you want.

 

Engine swaps are pretty common… look at the engine mounts and see if they are an add-on aftermarket component or some cobbled up angle iron affair that might drop the block on the way home… check the welding for cracks and bending.

 

The transmission should also be checked for support.  In the truck I bought, the transmission was being supported by a torch cut piece of bed rail that was held to the frame by twisted wire.  While you’re looking there look back at the rear end for signs of changes or abuse or rust through in the frame rails and spring perches.  Look for broken springs and hangers.

 

Look at the backing plates on the brakes for signs of leaking brake fluid, kinked or missing brake lines.  The presence of e-brake cables, clevises and such is a good sign… not that they work but that the pieces are there.

 

If the truck is running, have a seat behind the wheel and turn it over.  Listen for abnormal starter sounds.  Is the starter dragging or turning over slowly.  This could just be a weak battery or signs of other problems. When the engine starts, let it idle, stick your head under the hood and listen.  Do you hear any knocking or sounds like metal contacting metal.  A little ticking in the valves is normal on start up but should disappear after a minute or so.  Look for signs of oil or fluid leaks around the valve covers, heads, thermostat housing.  If all sounds and looks good… throttle it up a little and listen more.  Did the engine run up to speed ok or was there hesitation or stumbling?  If any of these tests return a negative, it not necessarily a reason to reject the purchase… missing or stumbling could be signs of inactivity..the truck has just been sitting too long.  Metal on metal sounds are another matter.  Here’s another exception..  if you’re going to rod the truck and replace the engine… the noises don’t matter.

 

If you feel confident about the truck, take her for a spin… pay attention to things like brakes holding firm on stops, clutch slipping, steering binding on turns, gears meshing properly when shifting.  Listen to unusual sounds and feel for vibrations in the drive train.  You’ve driven enough vehicles to know when something is wrong.  But, temper your findings with the fact that old trucks are well, old trucks, and even when new didn’t drive or handle like today’s vehicles.  It won’t be as quiet or smooth as your Lexus.

 

WIRING AND ELECTRICAL

 

Old trucks are notorious for having ‘alterations’ made to the wiring.  When something stopped working or the wiring released it’s smoke…repairs are frequently made with whatever is handy to get the truck back on the road.  Routing and connections are put in the category of “I’ll fix that when I get home” and are rarely completed later.  I’ve seen 12 gauge solid copper house wiring used, plastic coated stranded clothesline wire.. wire nuts used for connections.  Any additional length of wire was simply coiled or wadded up and stuffed under the dash.  Firewall grommets were long ago poked out with a screwdriver and the telltale signs of arcing are evident and melted insulation has dripped down the engine side of the firewall.  Sometimes things were just cut loose and left hanging. The original wire is over 50 years old.. the rubber insulation has hardened and broken away and the cloth cover has been a snack for rodents. So don’t be surprised at anything you see under the dash, including wasp nest and rat droppings.

 

The old 6 volt systems were at best less than dependable.  On a cold day you were considered fortunate if your truck would crank at all.  Many adventuresome owners converted the system to 12 volts with the addition of an alternator and 12 volt pieces and parts.  Again this is a place to question the conversion.  If the truck is in running condition or at least has a charged battery, check the electrical devices… headlights work ?  tail lights, heater, gauges even come up off the peg ???  Wiper motor move the blades at all (assuming an electrical wiper system instead of vacuum)?.  Try the horn and the brake lights.

 

CAB AND INTERIOR

 

Climb up in the cab and look around.  What is the condition of the steering wheel… most of the covering gone ?? Check all the windows… first to see if they are there … then to see if they work.  Check the door handles and locks.  Pull on the e-brake handle to see if it’s frozen or broken.  Are the seats original and do the slides work… Try the cowl vent.  Some or all of these might be just rusted stuck and a little PB Blaster will free them up.  Check for trim pieces, glove compartment door and all the knobs and such.  Has the dash been hacked up to add a 8-track player.  Are all the knobs and switches and cables and badges in place… some may be hard to find if you’re going back to restored condition…

 

 

MISC

 

If you can get the hood up (if it will stay up… if it won’t there will be a broom stick laying inside somewhere.) stick your head in and take an accounting… is anything missing ??  Starter, carb, manifolds ???  Lots of times parts are robbed from one vehicle to get another running again.  Take off the radiator cap and look for any signs of plugged tubes, clogging or evidence of stop leak.  If it has water in it do you see any signs of anti-freeze ??  If not you might want to give the freeze plugs (block expansion plugs) a closer look and check the block for cracks.  Look the radiator over for any signs of leaks or corrosion.  Many times these old trucks have been sitting for years and the evidence isn’t really apparent, but look for telltale signs of green on the fins… corrosion from the leaks..but if it’s a ‘runnin’ truck they should show.  Look at hoses and belts, check the water pump for leaks.  

 

Pull the dipstick and look at the oil… if it’s milky it’s a sign of water in the oil.. if it’s thick and grungy…. It’s been a long time since an oil change. 

 

Of course check tires to see if they will at least hold air…  If it’s not a working truck, you’re gonna have to trailer it home or have a roll back drag it up and bring it to you.  Rolling stock is easier to handle than something dead that must be drug up on the trailer/truck.

 

One last thing to ask the P.O.   Are there any other parts for the truck.  Many times P.O.s will have an extra carb or side window that was purchased and never installed.  It never hurts to ask.  It might get you an opportunity to tour the  barn and find some other gems that could be available for sale.  I found an old safe one time when looking for tractor wheels. It was mine for the taking.

 

If you can do all this and feel reasonably confident about your inspection and the answers from the P.O. Start dealing.  Some folks will haggle and some won’t.  If the asking price is way too steep make a reasonable offer and wait for a counter… If he won’t budge and you won’t pay… walk away. Thank him for his time and drive off.  Wait a week and if the ad is still there or you know the truck hasn’t sold, give him a call and ask if he’ll reconsider your offer.  Many times people have trucks that someone in the family has told them are worth a fortune when in reality it’s just another old truck in bad condition.  After a week of no offers he might be more agreeable to considering your offer.  The worst thing he can say is no.  Lot’s of guys will haggle for a deal for months or even years before the owner will let it go.  Keep trying if you want the truck.

 

Another important thing you need to affirm is a clear title.  Although most vehicles were not registered in the 50s, in today’s world they are and in some cases inspections by the state are required.  Insurance companies won’t insure anything that isn’t roadworthy (in their opinion, not yours).  Ask for the most current tag receipt or registration… check the vin # against what you find on the registration plate to see if they match.  Sometimes you’ll find the plate on the glove box door or in the door sill or firewall… but it’s somewhere.  If there is no registration you’re going to have to come up with some way to register the truck and get a tag and insurance… that’s a BIG obstacle if you have to back into it and could be a deal breaker in some states.  If the truck has a tag no matter how old, there should be registration at the court house… It might be a good idea to put down some earnest money to get the owner to hold the truck till you can assure clear title and registration.  It’s not beyond imagination to find a barn stored truck that was stolen back from a garage that had a lien on it for unpaid work.  If that shop filed that lien it will be on record and if you buy the truck you inherit the lien with it… lucky you. 

 

Good hunting…

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN A CLASSIC FORD TRUCK

WHERE TO START

PART II

 

 

 

So….you’ve driven/hauled/drug your new project home and stared at it sitting in the driveway for over a week.  Your wife has walked around it, shook her head and headed back to the kitchen wordless. The dog has marked all four tires. Now you’re wandering down the information superhighway searching for revelations on your new prize..  Welcome to the rest stop on the Information highway for newcomers (newbies) to old Ford trucks…..

 

Let’s assume that at this point you already have a truck or are still at the very least, seriously looking for a truck armed with the information from Part I above.. 

 

FIRST ORDER OF BUSINESS

 

Your very first task and this can even be done before your purchase…

 

Think seriously about what you want from this truck…

 

Will it be a work truck for trips to the hardware store or nursery?  

 

Will it be a weekend driver for cruise-in fun, car shows  and weekend enjoyment ? 

 

Will it be a daily driver ?  Your principle mode of transportation ?

 

Will it be a show truck or trailer queen that is only pushed or driven onto or into trailers and featured at high bling , high dollar car shows … jacked up over mirrors and surrounded by a corral and high intensity lighting… or perhaps on a turntable. ???

 

This will be a cooperative effort between you and your truck… it might help to sit behind the wheel and rest your arm on the window sill as you contemplate your future together. Ask your truck what it wants to be and how it wants to look.  It WILL reveal the answers to you.  Hold the wheel and make vvvvvrrrrroooommmm sounds like you going through the gears.  Does it sound right… does it feel right ???   Or try making a humming sound… hhhhhmmmmmmm like you’re cruising down the freeway on the way to a weekend car show…Imagine ‘road tunes’ playing on the imaginary radio…  does that feel better ??  The answers await you if you listen. 

 

This mutually agreeable decision will lead you down one (or two) major paths with little side roads…some of those paths and roads are straight and easy, others are winding and treacherous with switchbacks, washed out bridges and several u-turns.

 

 

FORKS  IN THE ROAD…

 

 

Your next first decision (after the above first decision) will be… do you want to start driving the truck right now or after you’ve completed your repairs/restoration/rodding.  Having a running vehicle to enjoy is good motivation to continue your improvements.  If this is the case, I’d recommend making changes/repairs that will contribute to the safety of you and your family.  Repair or upgrade the brake system.  Give the engine a going over.  Change the fluids & filters…points and plugs...flush out the fuel system.  Go over the wiring and cables to get the juices flowing.  Of course, tires and drive train need an inspection.  Once you get it road worthy you can enjoy the ride while you work on your plan. 

 

On the other hand .. if you’re itching to build your dream truck or it’s too far gone to make it safe… forge ahead with a total frame off project…

 

Now that you have decided what your truck will do and be, you need to decide how you want it to look…

 

CHOICE ONE….. RESTORATION. 

 

You want it to look like the original, right ??  Everybody loves to see an old truck drive by… they wave and smile and think about their daddy’s or granddaddy’s old truck that looked like yours…except it was a different color and a had flat bed and it was a Studebaker and one fender was smashed in… you WILL hear this story !

 

 

 

Fork # 1

 

Now…. Do you want a total restoration that includes period correct cloth covered wire, 6 volt electrical system, generator, color correct inspection paint daubs on the firewall, itchy seat covers and bias ply tires??  OR do you want something that ‘looks’ original but has been updated to include real brakes, 12 volt (reliable) electrical system, auto transmission, power steering,  6 way lumbar support seating and seat belts ?  The folks will still wave, smile and tell you that Studebaker story… but you’ll be more comfortable/safe riding by.

 

 

 

 

Editorial note…..

It might be the proper place to interject here that as each one of these forks are chosen, consider this… it’s important. There is an associated commitment … both physical and financial.  Not a finite commitment … but a commitment just the same.  The amount of energy and treasury is different for each path and has no ceiling nor limit on width, depth  or time.  I’d love to give you estimates… but there are none.  More on this later….and a link to more info.  Back to the paths…

 

Total Restoration

 

A restoration (for those who don't know the difference yet) is a project that attempts to rebuild or reproduce a car or truck to original condition.  Some are extremely accurate, right down to the inspection marks made in the factory with paint daubers, correctly color coded cloth covered wire laced together with waxed string and perfectly reproduced engine decals.  Others are as simple as staying true to original paint colors and rubber mats, using original parts or reproductions.  The meticulously restored "Concours" type are rarely driven, sometimes never cranked and usually trailered to events.  The cost can run into the hundreds of thousands of dollars for exotic models.  But, many are drivers that are enjoyed daily by their owners and those of us that spot them in grocery store lots and wave at them along the road.  These can usually have a few thousand dollars invested and for my money are the best 'restoration' projects and the most fun to do.

If you are going for a 100 point concours restoration some other rules apply. For one don’t buy the best car you can afford, buy the absolute best truck available. The money you pay up front for a restored show car is a fraction of what you will spend getting a car to that level of restoration. Another item to consider for restored cars concerns originality and history. A car with a documented history of famous owners, competition or a landmark design feature is considered more valuable because of its history and originality. In the antique world it is called provenance and has marketable value. Since the ugly subject of filthy lucre has reared its head, there is one thing that needs to be explained right up front. This hobby is not about profit. Very few people ever recover the expense of building a restored car or a street rod.

 

I imagine most of us aren’t aiming for the Pebble Beach level of fit and finish or harbor a hunka hunka burning desire to own one of Elvis’ Cadillac’s. But one of the rules above still applies…buy the best car out there, not the best you can afford. The better the condition of the car when you start a project , the easier your job will be.

Updated Restoration…

 

This is the path that many take, and it is a prudent one and can be much less costly than a Concours restoration.  Many of the purist will search for months for one accessory or part and spend Jr’s. college tuition funds to get it.  With the ‘updated’ path you can pick and choose the  ‘hidden’ operational or comfort parts while keeping the outside appearance of the truck stock looking.  You can add safety upgrades… disc brakes and seat belts and still maintain your ‘old truck look’. There are many aftermarket vendors who produce add-on or replacement parts that work as well or better than the originals.  Upgrades include both front and rear independent suspension systems, twelve volt conversions and wiring kits, air conditioning, seat belts, power brakes and steering. 

 

There are any number of engine/transmission choices that you can put in these old trucks as well as gear ratios that will make you a terror on the ¼ mile… or make for a delightful cruise down the freeway.  Here you can mix and match what suits you and your needs/wants to make your ‘restoration’  comfortable, safe and fun …your limits are only your imagination and budget. 

 

 

RODDING YOUR TRUCK

 

The street rod approach follows much the same path as a restoration, but it's much less restrictive.   With a rod, you can make changes...as many and as radical as you'd like.  Some folks (those restoration guys) refer to us rodders as living on ‘the dark side’.  An example ?? I'm building a 1953 F-100.  So far I've changed both front and rear suspension, added disc brakes, automatic transmission, larger engine, and removed all door handles and locks.  I've added a different seat, and a fiberglass tilt front end.  It's still a '53 F-100, but it's my idea of a '53 F-100.  That's what custom street rods are all about.   Look at all the magazines... go to the shows and steal every idea you like.  Take pictures so you can remember the details.  Trust me... when you go to a show with 500 + vehicles, things tend to run together in your mind... Kodak never forgets.

 

Editorial Note II…..

Another point you should consider before heading down one of these paths..  The use of this truck just might include spouses and other family members.  If you’re envisioning a full blown gasser and your wife is picturing a ‘cute’ restored truck for weekend trips to her favorite B&B or for tailgating at homecoming… there is going to be a problem…  input from others might be helpful and considerate.

 

 

RESOURCES

If you’re reading this, you are already aware of the Ford Truck Enthusiasts Website.  No matter what model you choose or what year class… there is a wealth of information accumulated there in forum archives and articles.  The greatest resources are the members, many of whom have been there and done that and can lead you around many expensive mis-steps and pitfalls.  Plus they are a great support group for your addiction.  We have a program but it has many more than 12 steps.

You need to start gathering your resources and building a knowledge base here. Buy a shop manual... you can find them in Motorhaven (on the FTE site)  or other truck book sites.

Give Mid-50 F-100 a call or go to www.midfifty.com and order a catalog... they have the best breakdown pictures of assemblies and complete "I need it all" parts kits available.  All the sales people are knowledgeable and can provide you with lots of tech info and suggestions.

Go to a bookstore... find the magazine section and look for Classic Truck and Custom Classic Truck magazines... sadly both of these, that were once good fab-it-yourself magazines are turning into "bolt on our advertisers stuff" article collections... but they do offer a good selection of vendors that sell what you will want/need/lust for.  Order catalogs from the vendors.  Not only do they show all the latest ‘stuff’ you need but usually have good tech information and drawings.  Call the vendors and discuss your plan with them.  Many of them are truck builders also and can steer you away from problems and mistakes before you make them… both in time and money. Check the 1948-1960 F100 forum on the FTE website for comments on specific suppliers. The guys there call a spade a spade.

Plan on attending the F-100 Supernationals in Knoxville (in May) or the Great Smoky Mountain F-100 Run in Pigeon Forge (in June).There are other shows and gatherings on the left coast also… the Western Nationals event is one example.  The magazines often have schedules of the shows across the country. You can see hundreds of fine examples.  Many are what you wish you could do but can't afford !! and some that you can.. Vendors are available and ready to serve you.  Do a little googling on the net looking for clubs or truck groups.. attend their events and ask about joining and membership… They are always looking for new members.  Lots of the groups sponsor charity events and fund raisers that donate to specific local charities.  Besides the camaraderie they offer you an opportunity to help others.

 

 

 

COMMON PATHS

 

No matter which path you choose…restoration, update or street rod, there is a sequence of events that you sorta have to follow… for instance you don’t paint before body work.  That may be a over simplified example but hopefully it gets you thinking about what needs to be done in what order… and helps you a little later with the cost   estimate (like there is a way to accurately estimate cost  HA!)

 

I used a computer and  spreadsheet software.  You could just as easily use a spiral notebook or a three ring binder…   draw some columns.  List your activities or parts needed, whether you can or can’t do them…the cost (from catalogs or estimates from shops) and a status column to keep you caught up and knowing where you are.  Don’t laugh… you can get lost at times and forget to do some small thing that will be impossible to do later after other parts have been assembled or finished.

 

 

Do this for all the things you can identify… leave a few blank lines for things you’re bound to forget.  (this is where a spreadsheet is sweet… you can easily add columns and it calculates cost automatically)

 

Your table will grow and expand.. usually vertically as you add supplemental items. For instance... here's an example of an Excel table that lists the suspension/frame section.  The sequence column lets you sequence the work as you wish.   This is a very early list and the columns have spread vertically and the detailed steps filled in significantly.

TO DO LIST SAMPLE

 

A FISTFULL OF  DOLLARS…

Once you have an idea of how you want to build, sit down and come up with a realistic estimate of the cost.  Heed the word "realistic". (The column in your TO DO list for cost will help here.)

It's amazing how guessing and research can differ at the bottom line.  If you sit down with a detailed list of parts, pieces and work to be done your estimate will be considerably more accurate.  You can ask friends, use the internet  and vendor catalogs for resources, or talk to others who have built custom cars and trucks.  Don’t … repeat … DON'T let the size of the total project scare you.  Think of it as a lot of smaller less expensive projects.  It will save your sanity, especially if you've never tried this type project before.  And, one more thing about cost… never NEVER try to calculate  your hours into the equation…. Even at three cents an hour…it will drive the price through the roof.

Unless you are fabulously wealthy and can afford to have your truck ‘built’ for you… you’re going to have to have some basic mechanical skills and will probably develop some fabricating skills… which will also probably be more complicated than tightening bolts (righty tighty..leftly loosey).  And you will need more than a pair of pliers and a couple of screwdrivers.   As you develop your list… try to think about tools, machines, consumables and such that you will need to buy, rent, steal, borrow… and add that cost into your table.. although it’s  not actually part of the truck… it’s money that will have to be spent to get the truck finished.   AND, be realistic in your tool acquisitions… it’s cheaper to get your truck painted by a pro than to buy a high dollar paint gun, compressor and build a paint booth, especially if you don’t see yourself in the paint business down the road.

 

Whether you’re frugal or have money to burn… this project will consume several thousand dollars of your bankroll.  You can ‘cheap’ it and do most of the work yourself or hire it out to others… it’s gonna cost money… the more realistic you are with your estimate and budget, the more calm and serenity there will be around you…the more agreeable your mate will be with your project… and the kids will probably get something for Christmas if you plan well.

 

Agreement to commitment. 

 

There is no way to calculate how much your mate's support will mean to getting it finished. If you're working against her/him or at odds about it , even if/when you finish it it will be a sore spot and you'll never really get the enjoyment you'll deserve from it. The commitment of time and money is something that must be agreeable to everyone it affects in time and money. It's hard enough when EVERYONE wants it. I’d suggest that everyone affected (at least those affected by the finances) be in agreement  before it starts…. It will make the path much easier to trod.

 

INITIAL NECESSARY STEPS AND  PURCHASES

 

You have your plan… hopefully on paper but at least a smoky picture in your head. There are three things you need before you ever turn a wrench.  A digital camera… a supply of small, medium and large zip lock bags and a bunch of Sharpie PERMANENT markers. 

 

Take initial pictures of everything… especially before you take it apart… from different angles… wide shots and close ups.  Don’t get so close with the picture that all you see is a bolt head… you won’t remember where on the truck it is in a month.  Take a wide shot of an area then follow with several closer shots…this will help when you try to put it back together three years later.  As you disassemble things put the parts in the bags and label them…  torque converter bolts and caliper bolts looks alike but they ain’t the same.

 

Pictures, sketches and drawings of wiring and assemblies will save you time later on.

 

I wrote an article a few years back when I thought I knew something…

 

http://jniolon.clubfte.com/Trialsofafirsttimebuilder.html

 

it might give you a little insight into your new found hobby.  ... there is NOTHING that the group on FTE and money can't overcome...oh, and time... you're gonna need some time too... the time (and cost) calculation formula is in the article above...

some other reading material... at the top of the 48-60 forum on FTE is a sticky "READ FIRST - FAQS and related articles" read through that for suspension info, engine choices and so much more.

 

One of your best and hopefully dearest resources is your membership in the elite group on FTE.  The FTE and in particular the 48-60 forum is a family friendly type forum.. These guys will go far and above what you’ve experienced other places to help you with a problem, offer encouragement when you’re disappointed with your progress… laugh WITH you at your silly mistakes (‘cause they remember themselves doing the same thing or worse! And generally treat you like family…although there are a couple of cousins here that you have to watch out for.  I’ve never seen anyone get flamed and while discussions can get heated at times… everyone walks away friends.  Join in the discussions and offer what you know… that’s what we do best.  Take lots of progress pictures, start a gallery and share your joy.  It keeps us all motivated. 

 

The main thing you have to keep upper most in your mind…. Have fun.  This isn’t a race or a job.  It’s for enjoyment.. for you and for your family and friends.  As soon as it turns into a job or a chore… all the fun drains out of it…  Write it on the shop wall if you have to… but don’t forget it.