No Spark on 1994 F-150 After Replacing ICM, Coil, ECT, and Checking PIP
I was driving my 1994 F-150 XLT with the 302 this past Sunday when all of a sudden, 20 minutes or so into the drive, I noticed some hesitation. This went away and then came back maybe 15 seconds later, and when I stopped at a stop sign, the engine died. It started back up for a second or 2, then died again and wouldn't restart. Someone kindly towed me to a nearby parking lot.
Some brief spark tests with a screwdriver told me I didn't have consistent spark coming out of the coil. When I pushed down on the Schrader valve on the fuel rail, fuel squirted out plenty high; this combined with no spark made me think it was most likely a spark issue. I didn't have any electrical tools with me so I tried replacing the coil and ICM, since, after reading up online, those seemed to be common culprits. No dice with those, and I got permission to leave it there for the week so I could come back this weekend to fix it.
Went back today with more tools and she started up when I got there and ran for a minute or two, then died. I tried to start it back up, and it started but then died after a few seconds. Out came the LED test light (Innova 3410). I suspected the PIP sensor, so I put one side on the positive terminal of the battery and the other on the top wire of the ICM (using a piercer). When cranking, the LED flashed continuously, as it is supposed to (to my understanding).
So, I put an in-line spark plug light on the coil just to verify I definitely had no spark, and it started again for a bit (it had been sitting while I went to the auto parts store to get a test light) and then died shortly after. No spark when cranking.
I tested the ICM (heard of some issues with aftermarket ones and was worried I got sold a bad one) by attaching one end of the LED test light to the passenger-side wire on the coil and the other on the positive terminal on the battery. Briefly had some weak flashing and then none. Tested the PIP again using the same method as before and still strong. This made me think the ICM was bad, so I went and got a Motorcraft one from "the zone," and (it had been sitting for a while again) it started right up, then died after a minute or two. I pulled the KOEO codes (probably should've done this earlier) and got 118, 122, 181, 212, 334, and 556. I cleared them but couldn't get it to start again before I went home and didn't have any new codes. Because 118 deals with the ECT and I had replaced the radiator and drained and flushed the coolant (using both a hose and a Prestone chemical flush) the day it died, and because I read about some people online having issues with no spark due to a bad ECT, I replaced the ECT. Unfortunately, no change.
I really don't know where to go from here, any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
Edits:
- Meant to add I read something about the SPOUT connector with code 212 so I took off the connector and tried it and still no luck.
- Also none of these codes were current, they were all in memory, and the engine runs great when it does start.
- I checked and the coil connector has ~12v
Last edited by ejohn270; Yesterday at 09:14 PM. Reason: added edits in edits section



