2004 ford explorer sport trac xlt: I got a new motor for the windshield washers 6 months ago on ebay. Worked fine. The other night, no more water (wipers work fine). Reservoir empty, fluid had leaked out (saw some remnants on garage floor). I don't think one or two attempts the other night would burn out the motor if the reservoir was dry, but there is no humming noise at all when I push the steering wheel stalk button inward, just the wipers activating for three swipes. I don't have a multimeter or really know how to use one. Looked for burned fuse, and found one in the cab (but not #27) and one under the hood (also not the right one). I tested both fuse receptacles with good fuses, no difference. I know where the relay is under the hood, under the air filter manifold - removed it, that is the only relay in that rectangular box. I was thinking O'Reilly's might test my relay if I pull it out and drive over. I assume there is no problem driving w/o the relay plugged in. Can't believe the motor would burn so easily but maybe. Suggestions? Vehicle for sale, but I need to fix this before I start test drives with buyers. Thanks.

this fuse is burned (pulled out partway for the picture), but it's not the one controlling the windshield washer motor; I tested a replacement.

#27 bottom row of 4, 2nd from right, supposedly controls windshielf washer motor, but it's fine. found a burned fuse, 2nd row from top, middle 7.5a, upside-down, but tested a good fuse in it's place = no difference.

15a fuse in 2nd from right colum, 3rd one down blue fuse was bad, but tested replacement and it made no difference.

 

According to the factory service manual, fuse F2.27 IS for the windshield washer pump and the instrument cluster. Fuse F2.6 which is blown is also listed as for the Instrument Cluster.

Have you performed a visual inspection to make confirm the pump is plugged in and to see if the connector is corroded? Maybe the leaking fluid got into the pump connector and corroded it, or maybe the fluid is leaking through the pump and that's why the pump no longer works. Other than the visual inspection, there's not a whole lot you're going to be able to troubleshoot here without a multimeter or at least a test light and some desire to learn how to use it. Do you know why the washer solvent leaked out of the system? There's not much value in having a working washer pump if the reservoir is cracked or the tubing has an issue.

The 15A fuse that's blown in the underhood fuse/relay panel, fuse F1.35, is for the Central Security Module. Do you have key fobs or the keypad on the door, and do they work?

-Rod

 

Thanks for reply. Pump is 6 months old, no corrosion, not plugged (I blew through pump, and hose, it is clear). I think the rubber grommet of the new pump is not as tight a fit as the factory grommet (there is also no "filter" portion). I silicone greased it and don't see any leakage now. No issue with leaking reservoir or tubing. I will test the fob (I've never used it but I have it in my home) and door keypad (don't use it b/c it sometimes takes many tries to work). I don't think it's the fuse, I tested replacing the burned out ones, and there is still no sound from the pump. I have a 12v test light, the kind you connect an alligator clip to power source (I think that's how it works) and then push a pointed metal end into a live wire to light up a bulb. Not sure how I'd use that in this application, there is a two-wire connection to the pump; a black wire (solid) and another with a stripe. I'm working on my own though.