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is this at all related to the thinner glass seals that LMC was selling?
When I was doing the install, LMC told me that their seals, channels, division channels, were all designed for their thinner glass, so I changed to DC kit.
The smaller, narrower division channel is the LMC product in both photos.
When the DC division channel was installed there was zero wavy edges. However, I was so disgusted that the windows sat so tightly in the channels as to make it nearly impossible to roll up, so I applied first a silicone lube. When that have nearly no affect, I applied grease. I suspect that the grease and/or silicone had a reaction with the synthetic rubber. Ouch. The thought of having to pull my panels, remove the glass, and install a 3rd set of seals/channels makes me so happy. I'm not sure how to proceed, all with fresh paint.
When I was doing the install, LMC told me .... etc ....
I applied grease. I suspect that the grease and/or silicone
Might have been the grease sure enough. I've used a lot of sprayed in silicone on them over years on many vehicles, but like said .... I never saw that.
Do they work with the glass going up, etc .... or is there a issue there. I understand the desire to not mess with panels, taking glass in / out, etc. If was mine and the windows went up and down with no noises or rattling, I would probably get some life out of mine, like not be in a hurry to change.
Late to the party, but it looks like the weather strip is just not installed all the way down the window track / channel
Those are hell to replace with the glass in place as you can see
You can usually work them down all the way by pulling or jamming a pick tool into the bottom of the felt where it sticks down too far and doesn't matter
Right, jube it up with the special Ford thick silicone grease when you are done
** Lube all the channel weatherstrips with this Ford "mini vent lube"
Hello there. I did not use sealant nor adhesive.
I'm going to replace both sides.
I notice that with the window lowered so that the top is an inch or so above the anti rattle strips, the instant I begin to crank the window up I can see the glass shift/tilt away from the division bar. Is that normal?
Last edited by F-250 restorer; May 19, 2026 at 12:27 PM.
Hello there. I did not use sealant nor adhesive.
I'm going to replace both sides.
I notice that with the window lowered so that the top is an inch or so above the anti rattle strips, the instant I begin to crank the window up I can see the glass shift/tilt away from the division bar. Is that normal?
Mine can rock just slightly, I guess depends on the stud adjustment (in the large square hole to the rear of the speaker hole) down at the bottom of the run and the compressibility of the rubber in the channel. As you start to wind the window up from the down place, the wheel in the track at the bottom is moving up and forward in an arc, so is pulling the track forwards ... where as when it was lowered, the same arc was slightly pushing it rearwards. The top of the glass might would tilt opposite.
Thanks guys. I will keep all this in mind as I proceed.
Pricing for only 1 division bar channel rubber: LMC, $4.99, NPD, $9.99, DC, $24.95! That's quite a range; from $10 to $50 a set. Huh. I immediately toss out the LMC item due to its thin glass design. That leaves $20 at NPD, or $50 at Dennis Carpenter. Can there really be such a difference? Wow.
One thing I don't want to do: to have to do it again after this install or for the parts to be crappy.
I'm a bit nervous about removing my epoxied up door panels, and even more so because of my fresh paint, but today is the day I get to remove the panels, disconnect the windows, drop them down, yank out the existing division bar rubber, and replace it. I plan and taking a long look around and checking on the window run rubber while in there.
Btw, I wanted to mention the difference I feel in the road noise level while driving with all the Killmat on the floor, up the rear wall, inside the doors with oem pad behind the panels as well, and the killmat on the ceiling too. The difference is amazing. I can now hear the voice of Google directions when I drive! And when I close the door, if the windows are up, I can feel pressure in my ears, like the old vw's used to. Adding the insulation was a good choice. And since I'm at it I have to mention the new amplifier. It rocks. It's like being back in high school.
Wait! I seem to recall installing them without removing anything. Pull the old one out and lube the channel on the new and push it between the window and the channel. Then again, maybe I was dreaming.