Hello,
I recently bought a 1985 f350 crew cab dually 6.9 idi that has not run in over 10 years. I purchased new batteries and installed them, but when I turn the key there is no response. what should I do next to try to get it to turn over? Any help you can give me would be greatly appreciated. I am 15 years old so anything I do is going to be on a small budget. Thank you

 

Depending on your transmission you could have a clutch interlock switch in manual trucks or Neutral Safety Switch in automatics. These switches fail sometimes. For automatic try shifting through the gears down to low and then firmly into park. For clutches depress the clutch several times and hold it all the way down to start. The clutch must be fully depressed. You can also apply 12v to the S terminal on the starter relay. Jump from the positive pole of the battery to the S with a small wire. If that doesn't get the starter moving you can try jumping across the starter relay. Your batteries must be fully charged at 12.6 v before trying to start. Beside the CIS and the NSS the ignition switch could be bad. These are some easy first things to check. You can also do a voltage drop test. Search for that in the 80-86 forum.

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Thanks for the quick reply. My truck has the c6 automatic transmission. I jumped the starter relay and the starter motor kicked in and spun all the pulleys, but did not fire up. Is my next step to work on the fuel system?

 

Did you have the key turned on when you bypassed the normal crank circuit? If not try turning key switch to on makes sure glow plugs have cycled or have block heater plugged in.

 

If you have a fault in getting the starter to crank with the ignition key you probably want to chase down the reason for that issue. You verified that the starter is good. IF you can't get the starter relay to operate by applying 12v to the S terminal then it points to a bad starter relay. If that works you are not getting the 12v from the ignition circuit. So you have to trace that issue back to the fault.

These trucks have a glow plug preheat system. Without the operational glow plugs it is very difficult to start a cold engine. Do you still have the glow plug controller hooked up or has a previous owner installed a push button? You may also have a block heater that's operational. That can help warm the engine for starting. Look for a 120 v AC electric cord and plug under the hood on the passenger side. Have you tested your glow plugs? There's a lot of information on this forum on glow plugs and systems. You're going to need to figure out how your system is configured. And how to test it.

 

On the right side of the dash and below there is a glow plug indicator lamp. If you still have the controller operational when you turn the key to the run position and the engine is cold the glow plug system will energize the glow plugs and the glow plug light will come on. Wait till the light goes off before engaging the starter. If you don't see that light come on it indicates that it may have been disabled. The controllers are famous for being unreliable and have often been disabled and a momentary push button installed. These are usually installed in the dash in a handy spot for pushing them in to energize the glow plugs before starting.

 

when you turn the key to start position, do you feel a slight resistance in the key, and it springs back to run when you let go of the key? if not, the ignition actuator in the top of the steering column is broken. a common replacement item on these year trucks.
part is under $20, but it takes a few hours to replace.

 

If your glow plug controller is defective don't bother replacing it. I replaced one and the new controller quickly died.

 

If you can get the starter to spin by jumping the relay terminals then you should be able to get the engine to start. There is probably air in the fuel lines that needs to be bled out. After cranking for 5 seconds or so try depressing the Schrader valve on the fuel filter housing and some diesel and air should come out--do this until you get a nice pressurized stream of diesel. With air in the fuel lines it is hard to start these engines.

 

I tried bleeding the lines through the Schrader valve until I got a solid stream of diesel. while I was doing that the battery started smoking so I stopped and now the relay just makes a clicking sound. The key does spring back when I turn it all the way over.

 

Do you have two batteries hooked up? Do you see the plug for the block heater? It's on the passenger side of the block, above the starter and should be routed towards the front of the grill. If so, are you in a place where you can plug it in?...........Wait, depending on if you have an early or late block, you may not want to use the block heater. I forgot about that. You'd have to research to figure out how to spot an early/late '85 block. If it's early, the block heater can crack the block!

Well anyway, you need 2 batteries and good enough cables and starter to turn the engine over really fast. If you don't start with this, she'll never run. Then just turn your key to run, so that the FSS is getting 12v. Since your solenoid burned up, just jump it. Use two large screwdrivers and place them on each side of the big posts. Cross them so they touch while you hold them on the posts and the engine will turn over. Make sure you're in park or shifted into neutral with manual, and stand to the side. Don't run yourself over. Be very careful. If you get it running, then you can go buy a solenoid so your key works again.

If you want some starting aid, since you may or not be able to use the block heater, you can set a heat gun or hair dryer over the intake and let the hot air warm the engine up. Let it set for like 20 mins and she should fire right up. The odds of the glow plugs working on a truck that's been sitting for a long time, is pretty low.
You can also pull the glow plugs and dribble a little trans fluid down the hole (put the plugs back in). This will help it fire. Be careful. Stay safe. Don't rush it.

 

I have two new group 65 850cca batteries in and I have no lights come on when I turn the key at all. I tried jumping the relay with screwdrivers but there was no response. also when I try to jump the relay with a wire from the battery, the wire kinda solders itself to the terminals.

 

Sounds like you have a blown maxi fuse or fuseable link. What state do you live in Sam? Maybe someone can give ya a hand.

Don't try and run a little wire to the big lug on the solenoid, You'd need something like a jumper cable for that to work and even that, depending on the gauge could get hot quick. Do you have a volt meter and know how to use it? If so, does one of the lugs on the solenoid have 12v?

 

If you find that you have 12v at the fender mounted solenoid from the battery, then take a hammer and tap on the starter a few times. Give it a few good smacks right on the case. Then try jumping the solenoid again.

Ideally, before you do that, you should put a ratchet and socket on the crank pulley and turn the engine over by by hand at least 1 full revolution to make sure it's not locked up.

 

If you don't have two fully charged batteries with good connections freshly cleaned and made start there. That's battery 101. Now you didn't say if the glow plug light came on when you turn the key to the on/run position. If not did you look around the dash area for a momentary button that a previous owner installed? A properly operating glow plug system is something you're going to want to verify. Start at these two issues before cranking the starter again. When you are ready with an operational glow plug system you're going to need 6 to 10 seconds of glow plug time. A controller will do that for you or use the manual button like I have for 6 seconds with good glow plugs. Add a second if below freezing and an additional second for each 10 degrees F below freezing.

Then when cranking the starter take it easy. I never exceed about 10 seconds per crank and that's only when I prime the fuel to the Schrader valve. Then I rest for 5 seconds between cranks. Your diesel should fire up cold with glow plugs in less than 3 seconds. When warm the engine should start within a second as you bump the key. If you did extended cranking to prime the fuel that's what will cause electrical damage. Do 10 seconds and rest for 5. What's the hurry?