Remove seat track plastic knob
#1
Remove seat track plastic ****
How does one go about removing the **** on the forward-backward slide tracks of the driver's side bucket seat?
Have mine disassembled to coat them but can see how to get that part off. The Ford book says to remove the **** and metal retaining clip (which I can barely see a sliver of) when replacing the track but not sure which way I need to pry it.
#2
Are you sure they will go back together and slid after coating?
I will have to see if I can find my extra set of tracks to see if I can tell as I am not standing on my head to look at the one in the truck
Dave ----
Edit: Ok I gave a look and I see what you are saying.
I gave a quick tug and it did not want to come off and I did not see this metal tab.
I wonder if you took a feeler gauge and pushed it down inside where this tab is if it would then come off?
I know on some older cars to remove the shift handle that is what you had to do.
Dave ----
I will have to see if I can find my extra set of tracks to see if I can tell as I am not standing on my head to look at the one in the truck
Dave ----
Edit: Ok I gave a look and I see what you are saying.
I gave a quick tug and it did not want to come off and I did not see this metal tab.
I wonder if you took a feeler gauge and pushed it down inside where this tab is if it would then come off?
I know on some older cars to remove the shift handle that is what you had to do.
Dave ----
#3
Haha I don't blame you. There is an indention on the bottom side but I can't tell if it has something like a plastic pin in there or not. I would have thought the book would have mentioned it if so as it would have to be drilled out.
Although I think it would still slide ok, I am taping the faces where the rollers go and the slides pass each other to be safe.
Appreciate you checking.
Although I think it would still slide ok, I am taping the faces where the rollers go and the slides pass each other to be safe.
Appreciate you checking.
#4
Couldnt find my feeler gauges so ended up wiggling and applying more force. Eventually the retainer popped off.
The feeler gauges idea is ultimately what would work best.
The handle has a small notch that the retainer hooks into and the retainer has some barbs that hook into the plastic. Putting two feeler gauges under the retainer on either side of the handle away from the 'thumb' spot should release it from the way it looks.
#5
Just for closure:
Got them blasted and coated last week. Working on the passenger launch seat now (a lot more metal to prep).
To disassemble the driver's side I drilled out the two outside rivets in the tracks. These are used to hold the bottom track to the mount piece as well as provide an additional stop point in the sliding mechanism. After blasting and coating I lubed them up and reassembled them by using some 1/4 x 1/2 long arp bolts. I did keep the roller paths clean of powder just in case of tight clearance.
For the **** installation whatever you do, do NOT insert the retainer into the **** for safe keeping, curiosity, or what-have-you because it will not come out. So make sure to install the retainer on the metal arm first and then the ****.
Got them blasted and coated last week. Working on the passenger launch seat now (a lot more metal to prep).
To disassemble the driver's side I drilled out the two outside rivets in the tracks. These are used to hold the bottom track to the mount piece as well as provide an additional stop point in the sliding mechanism. After blasting and coating I lubed them up and reassembled them by using some 1/4 x 1/2 long arp bolts. I did keep the roller paths clean of powder just in case of tight clearance.
For the **** installation whatever you do, do NOT insert the retainer into the **** for safe keeping, curiosity, or what-have-you because it will not come out. So make sure to install the retainer on the metal arm first and then the ****.
#7
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