Anyone have experience or any info on replacing the torque converter?
#1
Anyone have experience or any info on replacing the torque converter?
Never messed with a torque converter before but I have installed a few transmissions.
Correct me if I'm wrong. From recent research I found that the rear engine cover has to be removed to replace the HPOP. Well the PO replaced the stc fitting and perhaps the HPOP was messed with.
About a year ago I had problems with my starter, truck wouldn't start, replaced starter, had to bump the key a few times SOMETIMES to get the truck to turn over with the new starter. Put in another starter all seemed well.
During the winter I would get a weird metal vibrating sound on a cold start up. Sound would go away after a few secs. The sound would only happen when the outside temp would be around freezing and below. One day after work I had a friend start the truck while I crawled under the truck trying to pinpoint the sound. Definitely coming from the bellhousing. There is a hole in my bellhousing. Was there when I bought the truck. While under the truck I found a bolt lying over the hole. I think the bolt was the cause of my starter problems.
Pretty sure the bolt is from the rear engine cover. Perhaps when the rear cover was reinstalled the bolts weren't torqued correctly and worked loose.
Now upon inspection using a borescope through the housing hole I noticed scoring on the torque converter nuts and the TC itself.
Lately I've noticed loud ticking which I'm 90% certain it's coming from the TC. I'm afraid another bolt is on the way out or there is warping of the flex plat.
Looking for a detailed guide for torque converter removal/install I found a file for download from BD diesel. It seems legit but would like the more knowledgeable to check it out. I'm not sure it's ok to follow.
Future plans are to remove the transmission, replace the TC, inspect rear engine cover for missing bolts and replace bolts as necessary.
I'll upload the file when I find the name. For some reason FTE isn't showing me all my album pics when scrolling through them. Trying to find pics of the bolt.
Correct me if I'm wrong. From recent research I found that the rear engine cover has to be removed to replace the HPOP. Well the PO replaced the stc fitting and perhaps the HPOP was messed with.
About a year ago I had problems with my starter, truck wouldn't start, replaced starter, had to bump the key a few times SOMETIMES to get the truck to turn over with the new starter. Put in another starter all seemed well.
During the winter I would get a weird metal vibrating sound on a cold start up. Sound would go away after a few secs. The sound would only happen when the outside temp would be around freezing and below. One day after work I had a friend start the truck while I crawled under the truck trying to pinpoint the sound. Definitely coming from the bellhousing. There is a hole in my bellhousing. Was there when I bought the truck. While under the truck I found a bolt lying over the hole. I think the bolt was the cause of my starter problems.
Pretty sure the bolt is from the rear engine cover. Perhaps when the rear cover was reinstalled the bolts weren't torqued correctly and worked loose.
Now upon inspection using a borescope through the housing hole I noticed scoring on the torque converter nuts and the TC itself.
Lately I've noticed loud ticking which I'm 90% certain it's coming from the TC. I'm afraid another bolt is on the way out or there is warping of the flex plat.
Looking for a detailed guide for torque converter removal/install I found a file for download from BD diesel. It seems legit but would like the more knowledgeable to check it out. I'm not sure it's ok to follow.
Future plans are to remove the transmission, replace the TC, inspect rear engine cover for missing bolts and replace bolts as necessary.
I'll upload the file when I find the name. For some reason FTE isn't showing me all my album pics when scrolling through them. Trying to find pics of the bolt.
#2
Once the transmission is out of the truck the torque converter just slides off of the input shaft. That's the whole removal process.
Installing a new converter is only slightly harder. The seals on the input shaft need to be held down with Vaseline. Then the converter is slid over the input shaft and you spin it. It needs to drop down three times. It helps if you can stand the transmission on end, but you don't have to do this. Once it's in reinstall the transmission.
Installing a new converter is only slightly harder. The seals on the input shaft need to be held down with Vaseline. Then the converter is slid over the input shaft and you spin it. It needs to drop down three times. It helps if you can stand the transmission on end, but you don't have to do this. Once it's in reinstall the transmission.
#4
With the hole in the trans case and that bolt I think you do need to pull the trans and inspect, that said the rear cover does not have to come off to replace the HPOP, that is all done from the top side unless the branch tubes are damaged and then the rear cover does need to come off. Good luck.
#7
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#9
When I get home I'll check mine if I can find it.
#10
As I tried to point out, the history of these motors can alter the situation, and it appears Navistar used a few different suppliers for fasteners. and application. I'm probably more attuned to this from my restoration days on the early Mustangs, where bolts matter.
If you look at the first pic, the washer area under the hex varies.
And these bolts, while the same hex size, length, and strength come from different sources. The rebuilder most likely just prepped old bolts and place them by location. right thread, right length, right strength, good to go.
So during the downtime between rebuild adventures, I prepped bolts, a force of habit, not what this build needs.
These are all over the place.
So as I was trying to say, what I show may not be a good tell of your situation. I can't confirm that these are absolutely correct, but it's the length that was used for my rear cover. Everything I disassembled appeared to have the correct lengths though. Based on length it may be your bolt is coming from the trans pump area, or someone put a shorter bolt in for the rear cover. Maybe I should have stayed out of this thread.
If you look at the first pic, the washer area under the hex varies.
And these bolts, while the same hex size, length, and strength come from different sources. The rebuilder most likely just prepped old bolts and place them by location. right thread, right length, right strength, good to go.
So during the downtime between rebuild adventures, I prepped bolts, a force of habit, not what this build needs.
These are all over the place.
So as I was trying to say, what I show may not be a good tell of your situation. I can't confirm that these are absolutely correct, but it's the length that was used for my rear cover. Everything I disassembled appeared to have the correct lengths though. Based on length it may be your bolt is coming from the trans pump area, or someone put a shorter bolt in for the rear cover. Maybe I should have stayed out of this thread.
#11
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#13
Ah, forgot to mention, I talked to the PO. The rear cover was not removed when he updated stc fitting was installed. They said they never removed or messed with the transmission or rear cover. Although That doesn't mean that it's never been touched.
I would like to have the bolts on hand as soon as the transmission is out. The shorter the downtime the better of course.
I would like to have the bolts on hand as soon as the transmission is out. The shorter the downtime the better of course.
#14
I have my hands on my master disk copies. It may take a little longer is all.