Since the truck is down with a burned up transmission I decided to go ahead and start the up-pipe replacement. Figured what the hell, be easier with the transmission and turbo out. Well, partial right. Can't get the D@mn clamp off the Y-collector. I could use a little advice from someone that has done this. I'm about to get out the sawsall.

 

I managed to get mine to let go with a loooong chisel on the clamp and a couple of hard wacks with a hammer. I was pretty pissed. An hour or so trying and about 20 seconds once I got the chisel and hammer.

 

The first time I had to remove that clamp I used a long chisel like Walleye Hunter did and it popped off. The second time I had to remove the clamp that sucker nearly killed me...

I ended up destroying the clamp, but got it off by completely loosening the bolt and the top v-groove from the parts. Then I took a 3' 2x4 and put it against the up-pipe collector also known as the baby's butt and beat the hell out of the other end of the 2x4 with a 3 lbs hammer. Mind you, there was over an hour worth of frustration, anger and sweat going through my arm and into the hammer. Two good wacks and the clamp popped off. I let it lay where it popped off and called it a night...

I have since upgraded to a T4 design and will NEVER have to fight the collector again!

 

I had a serious struggle with that stupid clamp too. Actually worse than getting the clamp back on properly!

Later I found simply hitting the collector, not the clamp, is way easier.

 

Yep, loosen the clamp, stick something in the clamp close to the joint. . Long screw driver or a chisel.. And give it a couple good whacks.

 

Thanks for the advice. I'll see about it tomorrow. Gave up and opened a few beers to kill the pain. This truck has me pissed off this week. Transmission went out on the interstate going 75mph, suddenly no forward gears. Had get a Dodge Cummins to tow me home. Dropped the pan and it looked like Tinkerbell and all her fairy friends had a party, shiny metal flakes everywhere. Already had the stuff to do the up pipes so I figured, what the hell. Easier with the tranny out. Started that and that clamp wouldn't come off. Also found that the turbo pedestal is leaking oil. Need more beer.

 

Have an air chisel with a blunt brass attachment?

 

Well, there she is. Thanks for the advice. Stuck my crowbar between the turbine and compressor housing against the clamp. One hit and it came completely loose, no problem. Last night I beat everything against it I could find and it wouldn't budge and today it comes loose with one hit. Go figure. Again thanks.

 

What number is stamped on the exhaust hoising? From the pic, it looks chunkier than a .84

 

Only things I found stamped is Garrett and a rusty 4 digit screwed on plate that I can't make out. To the best of my knowledge it's all stock. I'm going to delete the ebpv since it's leaking bad . Ordered the parts today.

 

The exhaust side on your turbo should have a number cast into it like the 1.00 A/ cast into the aluminum intake side does.

 

Looked all over it can't find anything else but Garrett and that little rusty screwed on plate.

 

What is the advantage to installing new up pipes? Is it necessary if you want a 4" exhaust or is it simply to put better parts in the truck?

Reason I ask is because I see a lot of guys doing this but being new to the 7.3 I really don't know why.

Thank you for your potential response.

 

So in an attempt not to derail the post, the Ford version of the uppipes have a metal "donut" that seals the pipe going into to the "baby's butt" collector before the turbo. The international version has bellows to combat the expansion/contraction with a steel gasket between a flanged end of the pipe and the collector. The donut version has usually failed by this point in the 7.3s life from years of thermal cycles and minute corrosion. So the uppipes leak your exhaust's drive pressure to the turbo, usually evidenced by low power/poor mileage and visually confirmed by streaks of soot on the uppipes near the collector.

Any time you remove the turbo for a rebuild or compressor/turbine change you roll the dice on the original collector maintaining the seal IF yours wasn't already leaking

Edit: sorry cant find my pictures.

 

Thank you very much for the quick and concise reply. That answers my questions perfectly.