Thanks Sean this is definitely the place to be. I will copy a post I started in the wrong place. I have lots of reading to do and catch up. I have been working nights on this truck and days closing down businesses so I am tired and need rest tonight. I just wanted to put this out so I can answer questions when I get a minute.
Someone did ask me somewhere if the ECU got wet. I couldn't see how but I did try to force my way there with a horoscope camera to get my door codes. The whole front was off so It was the time to try and get that impossible code to get. . My bully dog is back to stock . It picks up the glow plug misfire. also. I will see if I interrupted The ECU while trying to get the door.

original post
I have all types of Monkeys showing up lately. It started with one issue and when ever I thought it was fixed new ones showed up and seemed to get deeper every time I played around with it. I started with 1 fuse blowing to now no power getting to 3 fuses.at all. I have a rear view camera powered by reverse light. It's been there a while but recently started blowing fuses after I had to move it to install a lift but when I have to touch any electrical I redo the cheap work I already paid someone to do years before. I had definitely a run of bad luck all at once. I put a tail gate lift on this truck which works out pretty good after making a few modification. I need a my 4th broken back surgery soon and I don't want to keep lifting things up after my whole lumbar ends up fused. Those fuses are breaking too but that's a whole other topic. not much left after that to damage. I wired it perfectly but while under the truck running wires I noticed major melt down on my train horn air compressor. This horn was professionally installed. I'm almost embarrassed to tell my friend who owns the shop how horrible this horn was done. I think this could be the start of my issues all at the same time I was doing some modifications on my own. I saw the compressor seized up and melted which seemed to be working the week before. I don't know how it lasted so long when I saw the way the way they installed it. The wiring done with cheap crimps no heat shrink no welding bare wire everywhere. This thing wire directly to my steering column horn wire no fuse except the one protecting the horn wire in the steering column. I think they split the main power off that it was crazy the way it was installed. I didn't see much damage on the column . Seemed like the worst of the heat melted the cheap wire they put in. After that all the monkeys started showing up however keep in mind my factory horn works fine. I have the train horn removed at this time as I am putting an air tool system back in with an 8 gallon tank water separator the way it should have been to begin with. I also have the reverse cam disconnected at this time for process of elimination. I first thought the issues were caused by changing a few light bulbs inside the cab to LED. I have LED for the whole truck but backed that out as well. I replaced the instrument cluster before I read all issues it creates. I don't think my issue is from my cluster. I put the old lights back in and all work. I wiggled connection nothing seemed to be jumpy. I notice when I put the dome lights in a spark showed up when I screwed it back in. I realized 1 screw was the ground. when that sparked I think everything stopped working or it was already there from the horn but has gotten worst throughout the last few weeks. Like I mentioned I went from blowing one fuse to 3 fuses have no power at all the more I read into it and tested. Whether it started from the air compressor meltdown obviously throwing one big surge directly through the fuse block and computer or it just progressively has gotten worse this is what I have now and think I'm at that place where the common sense mechanics need the experienced mechanics.
turn key to ON position but motor not running
Radio nothing starts
power windows not working
dome lights nothing
vanity lights nothing
door buzzer nothing
I'm sure I might be missing a few things but seems like delayed accessories

New addition Power windows never work at all not started or key on not running
AC unit seems to kick on and off. Not the power part but the part that controls the actual compressor. Probably from taking the unit on and off so much. The compressor must of had stopped working the other working the other day in Africa hot South Florida, no windows I would had died. I just Jared the unit a bit and instantly turned cold. what is ECU what is inconvenient coincidence
I traced everything back to the fuse box and 3 fuses are no longer getting any power. They are not blown but I did notice all fuses on that side ( the right side of the block with the accessories).seemed to have gotten hot enough to burn these fuses at one point. They had black marks at the upper parts of the fuses. Not hat at this moment I felt all around played with the connections. under steering wheel under the hood even auxiliary box under the dash. I am not sure if I tested the relays properly but swapped them out with other identical relays and nothing. I think I tested the relays but I don't remember the actual clicking. I don't see myself being tired enough to leave that unclear. I worked through the night on this to get it at least running.
Fuses without power
#30 High Beam Head lamps but high beams come on when truck is running. still dead fuse (weird)
#31 Starter Relay but truck starts (weird) Although It is running very sloppy it is running. I have to check and see if blower is running. I'm nursing it as I can feel it is not 100%
#32 Radio start

it took 5 tries to get my code reader an AUtEl MK808BT which I'm still learning how to use. It kept coming up cannot connect to vehicle. Probably why it runs like pig my bully dog is not making good contact? I also backed off to factory while going through all this. i had several codes pointing to ignition switch but this is where the experienced can help. has anyone dealt with this type of issue and ended up with the module or relay I could be missing.

I keep getting P0675-60 No 5 glow plug code fault which is cylinder 5 glow plug circuit. This was there before the electric issues and went away after starting up and warmed up. It says first 1000 revolution misfire. I assume that's a problem unrelated but someone here I'm sure can pick up here.
Being a diesel wouldn't be surprised if I'm low on fluid it have a low tire. Nothing makes sense on a diesel
Guys thanks for reading. I know it's a bit long but I try to be detailed

 

The dash cluster controls a lot of electrical components. Circuit board medics can test it to see if it has issues. Could clear up one of your numerous problems.

 

HarleyB1105
Did you get a chance to look at the Tech Folder also?
Circuit board medics is a sponsor and good place to check out.

@CircuitBoardMedics
This might get them to drop in and answer some questions for you.

 

Yes I was able to look at quickly at the files but not long enough to catch on to anything. I did take apart the the panels so I could pull out the fuse box radio etc. I reached up in the clouds to the ecu, ICU, MCU run DMC. So many different abbreviations for all these components. The unit with the key less entry codes. I was tampering in there to get my entry codes and even with a borescope cam I still had to get pretty aggressive with the white packing. I had my hands on it today all connections tight and no changes in atmosphere like dome lights or clicking relays. I also disconnected the one I believe they call Powertrain module, 3 bug plugs going into this unit. On my expedition this init is against the fire wall but on the 6.0 I found it next to the driver side battery. I disconnected and spray a little contact cleaner but all seemed nice and tight. I believe driver side battery controls all accessories. I just had a cracked battery a few months back giving me a similar malfunction. It was driving me crazy. some days the truck started right up and others I just got a clicking panel. I noticed the battery had a small leak in it. I replaced both interstate that were less then a year to begin with. It seemed fine so I started changing bulbs to LED but never got passed the gauges and dome light before running into this mess. I literally just had stuffed everything back in place. Seems like I find a band aid to mask the issue but it comes back harder and stronger. I went from blowing fuses to no power in the fuses. I've been reading as m,any threads as I can on here. I've exhausted youtube but like any other research asking the right question can lead you to an answer. Sometimes searching for the right question is as important as getting the answer. It did read from one of you guys in a thread that changing the module is the last resort. I don't think I'm at the last resort I am at the last of my knowledge or common sense on this. I read something everyday run out and try what I read up on. What is the unit on the back of the fuse box and what does that control? being that these fuses showed heat marks and now no power to the fuses at all I wonder what that does. BTW I felt the fuse box while running now and there is no heat to fear at the time. All the components that should be out if it were bad modules are working. perhaps part of the units is malfunctioning but I don't know how to diagnose at this point. I'm going to read more of the tech notes. I was just reading before taking a break my 6.0 won't crank on this forum. It's funny

 

I see the circuit medics guys seem to be familiar with some of these codes. I think I need to clear out the codes in my reader hook it up fresh and copy every code. They have a list of codes they fix and seem to be common. If I come up with the same codes I'll give them a call and see if my monkeys are living in one of these modules. Definitely a good contact. thank you for sending that.

 

Write down all the codes before you clear anything.
Both batteries are used in starting as they are tied together with a cable that goes
acrost the front of the radiator. The reason is the glow plugs draw a lot of power
when cold. Noe thing that is always worth trying is free stuff. So for the free stuff
try this. You naad to get at the top of the cluster. You don't need to remove it just
enough so that you can unplug and then plug back in the two connectors on the
top of it. They have small wires and I don't recall if they are cam lock or not so
use a lot of care if you do this.The dash is just held in place with clips and the
wires to the switches and other things.

Post the list of codes that you get here please.

 

It's running late tonight to go plug in that reader. As far as the cluster I know the exact plug and wire you are mentioning. For that very reason of so many wires together I thought everything else should be first. So far I have plugged and unplugged most areas of main harnesses. The one part I have a hart time with is these alarms systems and how they plug in what ever they want however they want. Those tiny wires are a giant spaghetti bowl of trouble. They first thing that keeps going wrong is the alarm remotes and remote start. I had the remotes reprogrammed when I changed batteries but they went bad within weeks. I have had that alarm in there about 8 years I have welded many wires together after the black tape leaved a bare sticky mess.Knowing that was the start which turned out to be battery on this one. or the same thing that burnt up the fuses could have cracked the battery. drive myself crazy with this puzzle. If it was not holding my days up this would be fun to finally get to the bottom of this issue. I did the door wire loom squeeze or pressing . I'm looking for a ding sound or any accessories to turn on as I just opened the door. I did the same thing with the cluster wires you mentioned and I did read in several places how sensitive of an area this could be. i wiggled the wires to see if anything would sound or turn on but I don't see anything wrong now. They have that connection tie wrapped on to protect it. You think completely disconnecting cleaning connectors are connect might come up with something or at least eliminate this from the process. I assume put grease in all connectors. I have all this exposed so It should be a quick one. catch you tomorrow. I'll try to get all the codes.
It's a pleasure to test and learn from people who are familiar with the same toy. I rebuilt CNC machines with Tech that were very good at the older CNC'c with PLC's. Now I'm to old timer that people were calling for help. I'll get this figured out with these tips. I really appreciate it.

 

I am going to re read what you have posted tomorrow. After trying to change batteries in 4
smoke detectors and having two of them chirp at me for a few hours I done for
all battery replaceable smoke detectors

 

Tonight's code reader was no connection could established. It's exactly what I have observed every time I touch it it gets deeper int the issue.1st couple of time I plugged in this autel MK808-BT it read everything right away. I've only had this scanner around 3 months of so. I bought it when I had the battery issue. I was having electrical drain on my SUV also. Every time it lead back to a battery connection or battery. Unfortunately now I have 2 brand new interstates in there. I hate interstates for the reason I never had luck with them. I purchase them only because I broke down next to an interstate company. Most people seem to like them. I connected this scanner the other day and it took 4 times taking off the connection manually enter the vin number it finally read the vehicle and threw a bunch of faults. tonight I tried over an hour and nothing every way I put the key. I plugged the bully dog back in since that one reads DTC's but I only have the very consistent glow plug 5 misfire on start-up. If this port is now giving my reader trouble I have to wonder what it's doing to the bully dog while driving. I cannot get on the peddle since everything is just hanging in place and that 6 speed transmission will make you feel it. I drive it like it's not well and it obviously keeps getting worse.
Would you know if there are any connections between the module that controls all the accessories that are not functioning and the code reader port. If it all leads back to the same module I should start looking at the common denominator.
I also took the cluster connectors off. Those are tie wrapped on and have a strap on the connector itself. I did not want the vehicle running while undoing that but after cleaning and reinstalling I wiggled the wires pretty heavily and I did not get any reaction like a cracked weld would do.

I think when the steering unit comes for my SUV I'll put that together then take what ever I need to take off this truck to get tested. I'm still going to try and get a reading for codes. tommorrow's an other day maybe the truck will be in a better mood.
On the funny side I said the other day I googled steering columns for what I need and the scam phone calls started bright and early the next day. Those people were bad enough for me to cancel the sale as they were starting to set this up as you get what we find. I cancelled the sale but right after I noticed a pending charge to a scrap yard I know nothing about. In went the fraud notice and card cancelled. That is becoming an every 3 months thing changing out credit cards. Today I found by my front door a whole steering column assembly wrong color wrong year which doesn't fit. I saw that one coming a mile away. It is however the same model and color as my truck. I wonder how they are going to try and spin this around.

 

Well I would think so long as you killed the card and it did not cost you any $ they might send a return shipping label to stick on it.

On the truck. Do you have power at both cigarette lighter ports? They are on the same fuse.
Also a sick module could screw up the network they all talk to each other.

The one that is marked 14-1 is from the 2005 year as I did not have the 2006
one on my computer right now. It should be correct as there were not that many changes.

 

Just stopped for lunch and see you sent me good reading material. I just downloaded so I can read tonight. To answer the cigarette lighters. both are working fine so is thge factory horn. The train horn is being rebuilt in my living room the right way to put in after all this is fixed. I'm actually going to use the aux switched for the new horn /air tool set up. One thing I have not checked and might have a chance in the next few day is the trailer lighting and brakes. I used to get a TBS fault quite often but redoing all conections fixed that. Either that or just like the others accessories, it is not working at all. I don't know if they are on the same module. What happened to the old days when everything was direct to power with inline fuses. . I was reminded when I connected the TV to an aux.switch until this is fixed

 

When all the need for commutations between the different modules is when I think that might of happened.
I don't have the info handy but you might look for some basic CAN BUS diagnostics.
Here is one I just found.
https://www.aa1car.com/library/can_systems.htm