1978 Ford f100 5.8L

As the title suggests my truck wont start. Nothing. Headlights turn on, radio turns on but when I try to start the truck theres no sound, ticking, turning cranking..

Late last year I changed the ignition control box, and ignition coil after some problems and it ran like a charm. Last time I drove the truck was back in February and it started just fine.. however now it wont start at all. So today I changed the solenoid, and the starter itself. Lights turned on and all but still wont turn.

I looked at the battery and I'm going to check if it's in good shape, but im running out of ideas.

 

Ignition switch or bad ground corroded , check if solenoid has power when you turn key to start (crank) position if not, suspect switch or wiring between switch and solenoid. I think there is a fusible link in there. You need to get the wiring diagrams and follow them out

 

If its automatic perhaps neutral switch is problem if not cranking

 

Old school - I'd jump across the solenoid terminals with a screwdriver and see if starter turns then.

 

Need some more info. As stated above, is your truck an automatic? If it is try moving the column shifter back and forth in the park position. If that works your nss (neutral safety switch) may be bad or miss adjusted. You can try jumping the solenoid, but in your nss is bad it may not start but will turn over.

Good luck and keep us posted.

 

When you swapped the solenoid did you accidentally flip the small wires? If you did the truck won't start you will just burn up the ignition module.

 

This is my first ever project car, forgive me for my ignorance. I'm still learning what's relevant information and what's not. It's definitely a learning experience hahaha

So yes, my truck is an automatic. I'm going to try to figure it out after work tomorrow. I've seen a video on the whole screwdriver jumping method but I'm unsure how that works because in the video the solenoid looked a bit different. Which points do I have to have the screwdriver touch? Do I jump it where those little connector sleeves slide onto?

 

So I'm pretty sure I connected everything back how I found it. I made sure to separate all the wires and stuff as I was changing it. I'm considering swapping out the ignition coil and control box but I just cant see why they would fail after not even 6 months and 200 miles of driving.

I just really dont want to get into the whole wiring components of the truck. I'm nowhere near being mechanically inclined when it comes to cars, but I can figure things out through YouTube. Wiring is just a whole different monster to me

 

The problem with replacing parts without actually testing the old ones first can create it's own problems these days. So you may have had a bad one, but replaced it with a worse one!
You just can't blindly trust the new stuff like we used to.

It used to be an accepted practice practically (testing before spending has always been preferred, but not always adhered to) but these days the quality of the replacement Ford starter relay/solenoids is so poor that there is even a thread here taking information from everyone about their failed attempts to use a new starter relay and the details, such as what brand and model was it.
That said, do you have a picture of yours just so we're on the same page? In any case it should be the "older" style that is oriented vertically, with the large studs for the battery and starter cables sticking out sideways and two smaller posts at angles outward towards the engine.
Later models were flatter and had all posts sticking out of the "top" of the relay. That may be the video you saw? I think they've been in use since the late '80's or thereabouts, so they've been around a long time themselves.

The two smaller posts are often marked "S" and "I" for "switch" and "ignition" (I believe?) and the one you manipulate with the old screwdriver-as-jumper-cable method is the "S" terminal located next to the battery side of the relay.
It should have the Red w/blue wire on it. The other one will have a Brown wire and is used to give the ignition system some extra juice during starting.

Easy enough to test, but don't be startled when the relay clicks and the starter clumps all of a sudden.
And make sure the shifter is in Park and the brakes are on first!

To your battery comment, that's a good idea to test it. The battery can be live enough to work the accessories but dead enough to not work the starter. Most times if it's not quite dead you will still get at least a single click, if not multiple clicks that sound like buzzing. But if it's dead enough, you don't even get the click.
And then again, if the new relay is crap, you might not get a click even with a good battery!

Good luck!

Paul

 

My 75 f250 acted up in a similar way, got lights but not that bright and radio but no start. Cables looked like they were good, cable to the solenoid was rotted inside the the plastic coating. Pissed me off as I only figured it out after a week of cursing at it.
Hope you kept all your old parts.

 

Yes so heres a picture of my old solenoid. Its fits the description of the "older" style solenoids. If you can picture this same setup with a new and clean solenoid, then that's what it looks like currently. Would I stick a screwdriver between the "S" and "I" terminal and make contact with the two to jump start it?

 

You stick a screwdriver from the constant hot battery side to the s terminal.

 

Thank you so much to everyone that replied... I'm sitting on my truck bed laughing at myself because I'm the biggest idiot... my truck wasnt in Park. It was like barely between park and neutral. I took someones advice and switched between gears real quick before I started my truck and tried to turn it on. ITS ALIVE.

I now have a new starter, solenoid, battery, coil, and module... as a result of my stupidity.

 

Well at least it wasn't just a dead battery.

Jess

 

You left out "... and a somewhat smaller bank balance." Of course, none of us here have ever made mistakes like that, no sir.