Replacement motor suggestions
#1
Replacement motor suggestions
I've got an opportunity to buy a really nice 06 cclb but it's got some serious blow by. Does anybody have any reliable sources for used motors in the 2-4 grand range? Used would be the only real option I assume without blowing past the value of the truck. It has been very well maintained and has mods in all the right places, just looks like it will need a motor in the not-so-distant future.
#2
#4
#5
I've got an opportunity to buy a really nice 06 cclb but it's got some serious blow by. Does anybody have any reliable sources for used motors in the 2-4 grand range? Used would be the only real option I assume without blowing past the value of the truck. It has been very well maintained and has mods in all the right places, just looks like it will need a motor in the not-so-distant future.
#6
Egr is deleted. I'm taking it to a very good 6 liter mechanic Friday for a comp test and block test. Hopefully I will know more about the damage and how long it's got. The mechanic that has it now says you would have no idea it was hurt if you didn't pull the oil cap. But I have seen it and so I know, can't ignore it now!
#7
Cranking it using the starter trigger wire near the passenger side firewall can be a quick indicator of an issue. It should crank smooth and even. Also with IDS or a quality scanner you can run a cylinder balance test which would show a percentage low in a weak cylinder.
I don't think I'd right off that engine yet.
I don't think I'd right off that engine yet.
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#8
That's the plan for Friday night. It's got completely dead bricks right now so no crank or even a dome light. I looked at it about a month ago and the mechanic jumped it and we ran it for about 10 minutes. The original issue was it blew the coolant line for the egr cooler off. At idle while cold. My initial thought was a head gasket but that doesn't seem to be the case. Curious enough I just watched a video on YouTube suggesting the same test today.........was that You?
the truck has air bags in the rear, 2.5" lift, fass fuel system, looks like a mishimoto coolant filtration kit, 3 gauge pillar with egt boost and trans temp, and an sct x4. Turbo and injectors have around 10k on them. 168k on the clock. New radiator and intercooler. About 6 months old judging by the stickers on them. Brand new A/T tires. Gorgeous truck and a great maintenance history.
the truck has air bags in the rear, 2.5" lift, fass fuel system, looks like a mishimoto coolant filtration kit, 3 gauge pillar with egt boost and trans temp, and an sct x4. Turbo and injectors have around 10k on them. 168k on the clock. New radiator and intercooler. About 6 months old judging by the stickers on them. Brand new A/T tires. Gorgeous truck and a great maintenance history.
#9
I drove the truck last night and this morning. Awesome power, idles evenly, but has a really uneven start. Mechanic I had look at it says it's got a weak cylinder but it is driveable for a while. I think I am going to pull the trigger on it and get the ball rolling on getting a motor ready for it. What are your thoughts on a used motor and putting studs in it? Assuming compressions are good, could you just put studs in 1 at a time following the torque sequence? Or is it an absolute must to pull the heads and do new gaskets, getting it machined, so on and so forth. I will have about $3500 budget to get a motor ready for it. Is that doable? Im starting to think that's a little light......
#10
Reverse torque sequence.
I've read here of plenty of studded jobs blowing headgaskets anyway because the prep wasn't done right. I'd throw "one at a time" in the same category.
There are people that have done it with no issues. There are also people that never stud the block with no issues.
There's doing it right, and there's everything else.
I've read here of plenty of studded jobs blowing headgaskets anyway because the prep wasn't done right. I'd throw "one at a time" in the same category.
There are people that have done it with no issues. There are also people that never stud the block with no issues.
There's doing it right, and there's everything else.
#11
It's a crap shoot using ANY used engine, most the time it's best to IGNORE most of what most sellers say --- most have not a clue and you won't know until it goes in, fires up (unless you want to invest in some very high priced shop equipment to do diagnostics before hand)
You might shell out $2K-$4K for a used engine only to find out later it needs serious work.-- most Powerstroke Engines need lots of attention
I have not purchased anything from Asheville Engines first because it's difficult to physically see their work in TN, second because their warranty is only 12 months..................my guess is they closed up shop in NC as biz slowed down................
You might shell out $2K-$4K for a used engine only to find out later it needs serious work.-- most Powerstroke Engines need lots of attention
I have not purchased anything from Asheville Engines first because it's difficult to physically see their work in TN, second because their warranty is only 12 months..................my guess is they closed up shop in NC as biz slowed down................
#13
It's a crap shoot using ANY used engine, most the time it's best to IGNORE most of what most sellers say --- most have not a clue and you won't know until it goes in, fires up (unless you want to invest in some very high priced shop equipment to do diagnostics before hand)
You might shell out $2K-$4K for a used engine only to find out later it needs serious work.-- most Powerstroke Engines need lots of attention
I have not purchased anything from Asheville Engines first because it's difficult to physically see their work in TN, second because their warranty is only 12 months..................my guess is they closed up shop in NC as biz slowed down................
You might shell out $2K-$4K for a used engine only to find out later it needs serious work.-- most Powerstroke Engines need lots of attention
I have not purchased anything from Asheville Engines first because it's difficult to physically see their work in TN, second because their warranty is only 12 months..................my guess is they closed up shop in NC as biz slowed down................
#15
It's a crap shoot using ANY used engine, most the time it's best to IGNORE most of what most sellers say --- most have not a clue and you won't know until it goes in, fires up (unless you want to invest in some very high priced shop equipment to do diagnostics before hand)
You might shell out $2K-$4K for a used engine only to find out later it needs serious work.-- most Powerstroke Engines need lots of attention
I have not purchased anything from Asheville Engines first because it's difficult to physically see their work in TN, second because their warranty is only 12 months..................my guess is they closed up shop in NC as biz slowed down................
You might shell out $2K-$4K for a used engine only to find out later it needs serious work.-- most Powerstroke Engines need lots of attention
I have not purchased anything from Asheville Engines first because it's difficult to physically see their work in TN, second because their warranty is only 12 months..................my guess is they closed up shop in NC as biz slowed down................
If an idiot like me can do it over and over without getting burned, someone who knows what to look for can.