I'm in the process of installing the LN 230 with the additional cabling Jack (Toomanytoys) recommended. This includes the Pos alternator to passenger battery, Pos between batteries, Neg from frame to engine block, and Neg from driver's battery to PCM/CJB and FICM ground points.

Is there any reason to run a ground cable from the back of the LN to the passenger battery, or from the driver's Neg to the ABS ground point?

 

I never finished that series since loosing my test bed. Going from the alternator to either battery negative will utilize that battery more during starting. The alternator to cables to batteries will have multiple pathways shared so for me it's not a huge issue unless you are installing the alternator on a truck with a utility body or winch using the frame as a conductor. You could take the braided 12ga cable that goes from the firewall to the back of the block and more it block to alternator. That way there are still 3 paths shared.

If someone does not intend to do any modest wiring upgrades they should still do a 8ga cable from the drivers negative terminal to the FICM and PCM ground. This was those components will directly share the batteries with three shared paths of cables, and when the alternator is active four shares of parallel cables.

 

Thanks Jack. I'll leave the grounding of the alternator alone, as my truck is electrically stock with no additional power consuming loads.

It sounds like the 8ga from driver's Neg to ABS ground isn't really needed either?

 

It's kind of a toss up. What I haven't shown in the videos is I ran 8ga to 4 ga between that neg terminal and the harness grounding points. 4 ga is pushing the pathways and during engine start the braided cable at the firewall starts to feed the starter at a high current, more then I care for the little cable. 6 ga is about ideal, but even an 8ga does really well. The 8ga neg terminal to the ABS supports the new 8ga circuit at start. It's a situation that if you are making your own cables that's not a bad one to use additionally, but I would necessarily tell someone to spend the $5 buying one.

If you ever get to the point you really want to add a alternator ground cable it should be from the back of the alternator (there is a place) to one of the cable connecting points down at the front of the block. This way the negative side is shared between both batteries. And it doesn't have to be large due to all the other pathways shared, more like a 4ga to go nuts. There are so many other parallel paths that the cable, not matter how large you make it, will only share a percentage.

 

Jack, It's always nice that you continue to help folks with the cabling, and I read each one just to see if your current thinking has even a minor adjustment. So, to clarify what I think I read from your posts here:

If you do NOTHING else cabling wise, you should AT LEAST do the 4 - 8G cable from Drivers Neg to the FICM and PCM Body ground points.
And: adding a short cable from Drivers Neg. to ABS ground point gives a slight improvement on top of that, just don't spend bux to do it. I have cable and just need eyelets to do this one (I'd left it alone from earlier conv. about it).

Thanks Jack!
Scott

 

Hey, you're starting to take over my secretaries old role, interpreting what I'm trying to communicate so it makes sense. 6ga to 8ga, 4 pushes the braided cable too uncomfortably for me, but it actually can handle much more. I'd just rather the main battery cables do that. But that's the "Full Metal Jacket" version.

Oh, and can I have you talk to my wife. please? It's basically the same communication issue.

 

You, my friend, are not even close to alone on the: what you said vs. what she heard, issues! I have had (somewhat limited) success, when a discussion seems to start going sideways, to just ask: What did you hear me say? It can go either way: you either get back some twisted version of what you thought you communicated; or it is the start of thermonuclear war...

I doubt you'd want me in the middle based on my success rate here at home...

Gotta' go check if I want to stack an eyelet on the one I have, or replace it with another that can hold 2 - 6G cables and go both ways from the batt... (Like the fender daisy chain was done)

Best,
Scott

 

Wait, no .... what are you making? I thought you already had 6ga batt to fender. You don't need more. The ABS is for 8ga.

 

See how things can get confused? (me) -- yes, I have the Dr. Side Neg to Fender to Firewall grounds all tied back with 6G. Just never included the ABS (behind the headlight) body ground point... So don't do it unless I have 8G cable? That settles it pretty quick (for me) - no 8G marine cable around here...

Thanks,
Scott

 

 

Hey Jack, I have a total of 62" of 2 ga cable already made up with a 200 amp ANL fuse in between. Do you think that is too long for the LN 230 to passenger's POS terminal? I also have about 48" of 1 ga with the same fuse in between, but it would be much harder to route.

 

 

Back to the firewall and then down the passenger fender side? Haven't measured that, but it seems reasonable...

 

Thanks, it only concerned me because some of the upgrade kits available use 1/0 for the same run.

 

Really unnecessary to spend the money to go up to 1/0. At 62" and since it's a shared pathway at 1/2 the maximum output of the alternator its 0.0947-volt drop using my calculator. If you upped to the more expensive 1/0 cable you would lessen your voltage drop to 0.0596 volts. The actual number is a little different as you have to look at each cable resistance as a parallel, but this gives a quick idea. That's a lot of money for 0.0351-volt improvement. You'll probably have more resistance in the lug connections than the cable. And if you are only using 100 amps total the voltage drop will be lower still.

You can Google voltage drop calculators and check cable differences, but you should do all the calculations at one site as it depends on what everyone uses for resistance per foot.