Does sound like the passenger side valve cover connector or the uvch came loose. Did you put any clips in when you installed the new harnesses or did you do the 50 cent mod.

Have you ever checked the wire bundle to the 42 pin connector for wear at the point it crosses the driver side valve cover. Can rub there and short out wires.

Check the tin nut on the back of the IPR for security.

Do you have a scanner that can monitor values?

How full is the fuel tank and have you ever done the in tank mods.

Welcome aboard.

 

 

If you're at 1/4 tank and have never done the in tank mods your pickup foot could have fallen off. You could be sucking air. Add some fuel and see what happens.

also check the 42 pin harness

 

Agreed with all the advice above.

For the 42 pin harness specifically look at the under side of the harness where it can touch the valve cover. It can rub thru and short, looks like this.

 

 

I doubt that a missing pickup would cause only one bank to go dead. Did a buzz test after your "replace all 8" show an improvement? What UVCH and gaskets did you replace with? The aftermarket units are known to have issues...

A decent OBDII adapter is $30, Forscan is free for a laptop. It's a no-brainer investment for 7.3 owners. I have the hardest time understanding why people invest in these old, ornery, expensive to repair trucks and yet avoid buying the most valuable tool in the toolbox for the cost of a 3-piece set of Channel-Lok pliers.

Not saying that will tell you EXACTLY what the issue is, but it can give you way more clues than guessing at all the things it could be and could eliminate some things that it isn't.

 

 

But you said it ran good for 18 miles after injector change. Usually if you have air in the lines it won't run well until you get it all out.

Are you still seeing the low temp on the passenger side manifold compared to the driver side. If so you need to address that.

It sounds very much electrical like something came loose when you hit the bump.

 

 

I agree with AllaboutMPG. If you are seeing low temps on the passenger side the problem is in that area. If you put the aftermarket UVCH on it I would replace it with OEM. They are more expensive but MUCH more reliable. I had the same issue you are having after replacing mine with aftermarket parts. I replaced with OEM UVCH and no problem since. It has been two years. If it were the ICP you would be having problems on both sides.

 

P0381 Glow Plug Indicator Circuit Malfunction
P1316 Injector Circuit/IDM Codes Detected
P1690 Wastegate Control Valve Malfunction

The first two could be the UVCH, or the gasket connectors, or anywhere in the harness - provided the IDM codes are caused by communication failure, not a fault within the IDM itself.

I'm only playing Internet guesser here, but the last one is likely unrelated... could be a wire, the solenoid, or a physical obstruction.

 

 

Doubtful that all the injectors on one bank are bad. And unless your intake boot is removed entirely, I don't think it would have that dramatic an effect at idle - but I've never tried this, so I don't really know.

It has been asked before and I didn't see it if you replied - the UVCH you used, is it Motorcraft, or aftermarket? Your response in post #3 seems to indicate aftermarket, and they are KNOWN to experience EXACTLY this issue.

I also haven't seen if you did a buzz test AFTER replacing all the injectors, harnesses, valve cover gaskets, and the IDM.

I would be looking closely at the UVCH and the connectors that pass through the valve cover gasket, particularly the ground terminals. Look at the plug (engine harness) side closely as well. Any sign of arcing, even faint, is a clue. I might try wiggling that connection around while idling, see if it makes any difference. If I had more time than money, I'd swap the harness/gasket side to side and see what it does. If I already had my tax refund smiling at me I'd just replace it with OEM and eliminate it as a potential issue.