2003 Excursion Crank No Start...everything seems to check out fine
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2003 Excursion Crank No Start...everything seems to check out fine
Hi all, first time poster long time browser...I’ve always been able to fix past issues just by browsing until now, help is much appreciated. Truck is deleted and tuned. Has had the HPOP replaced before I got it. I put new injectors in 50k ago and replaced the FICM.
A little background for the past year or so it would idle rough every now and then, not often. I figured it may be the icp or ipr so I had them on hand. Wife said it was running really rough (engine shaking) while cruising (that never happened before). I put the new icp, ipr and pigtails on. It fired right up! Faster and smoother than ever...also idled much smoother(used to loop a little bit). It was cold out so went in to let it warm up a bit, came out running rough. Turned it off, put the stock tune back on and I get a crank no start.
I bought a second set of icp, ipr and pig tails. Redid what I did thinking that’s all I messed with so has to be that. Nope. Only codes I have are glow plug #4, B1483, and B1352.
While cranking
FICM sync-yes
cam/crank sync-yes
ficm logic- 12
ficm pwr-12
ficm internal- 48.5
ipc v- 1.8-2
icp psi- 1500-1900
icp desired-1500-1900
ipr % 84.76 (long crank goes down from 84 to40-50%)
fuel pulse width- 1.8-2
I checked the fuel and oil filters, I have low fuel and oil pressure. Did the bubble test. While cranking sometimes I get white smoke(smells like unburnt fuel). Sometimes I don’t (which I think is odd). Batteries were load tested and charged. I did the air test in the ipr hole, held pressure no leak noise. I. replaced the cam and crank sensors and checked the wiring. Tried starting with icp, ebp, fan clutch, and glow plug harnesses unplugged.
I’ve checked the common chafe locations...thinking it could be a wire issue but would every look fine and still have a wire issue? The B1352 could it be an ignition switch problem? I’m stumped here, any thoughts?
Thanks in advance, Chris
Any thoughts
I also tried swapping the FICM from my ‘05 250, and I checked all fuses and relays and switched around relays
A little background for the past year or so it would idle rough every now and then, not often. I figured it may be the icp or ipr so I had them on hand. Wife said it was running really rough (engine shaking) while cruising (that never happened before). I put the new icp, ipr and pigtails on. It fired right up! Faster and smoother than ever...also idled much smoother(used to loop a little bit). It was cold out so went in to let it warm up a bit, came out running rough. Turned it off, put the stock tune back on and I get a crank no start.
I bought a second set of icp, ipr and pig tails. Redid what I did thinking that’s all I messed with so has to be that. Nope. Only codes I have are glow plug #4, B1483, and B1352.
While cranking
FICM sync-yes
cam/crank sync-yes
ficm logic- 12
ficm pwr-12
ficm internal- 48.5
ipc v- 1.8-2
icp psi- 1500-1900
icp desired-1500-1900
ipr % 84.76 (long crank goes down from 84 to40-50%)
fuel pulse width- 1.8-2
I checked the fuel and oil filters, I have low fuel and oil pressure. Did the bubble test. While cranking sometimes I get white smoke(smells like unburnt fuel). Sometimes I don’t (which I think is odd). Batteries were load tested and charged. I did the air test in the ipr hole, held pressure no leak noise. I. replaced the cam and crank sensors and checked the wiring. Tried starting with icp, ebp, fan clutch, and glow plug harnesses unplugged.
I’ve checked the common chafe locations...thinking it could be a wire issue but would every look fine and still have a wire issue? The B1352 could it be an ignition switch problem? I’m stumped here, any thoughts?
Thanks in advance, Chris
Any thoughts
I also tried swapping the FICM from my ‘05 250, and I checked all fuses and relays and switched around relays
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Only codes I have are glow plug #4, B1483, and B1352.
I checked the fuel and oil filters, I have low fuel and oil pressure. Did the bubble test. While cranking sometimes I get white smoke(smells like unburnt fuel). Sometimes I don’t (which I think is odd). The B1352 could it be an ignition switch problem? I’m stumped
I checked the fuel and oil filters, I have low fuel and oil pressure. Did the bubble test. While cranking sometimes I get white smoke(smells like unburnt fuel). Sometimes I don’t (which I think is odd). The B1352 could it be an ignition switch problem? I’m stumped
Regarding the B1483 .............. it is a brake pedal input circuit failure.
I would do what is necessary to get rid of the glow plug code, just to eliminate it from the equation. Sometimes a single glow plug code can really mean that the GPCM has failed. If it is cold there, it may not start without the glow plugs. Similarly, if the oil temp sensor has failed high, the PCM won't try to fire the glow plugs and it won't start,
Post the EOT value.
When you say you checked the low pressure fuel pressure could you post the pressure when cranking? Also, there is only one fuel pressure, at least until the injector compresses the fuel to increase its pressure. Lastly, have you checked to verify that the secondary fuel filter bowl will fill quickly when the key is turned on? Remove the secondary filter and have someone turn the key on while you watch, Be ready to have the key turned off quickly.
Your post about the intermittent fuel smell has me wondering about fuel delivery and/or injectors.
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Regarding the B1352 ............. does your "key in ignition" chime work? I bypassed mine because it was a nuisance. I have that code now because of the bypass I did.
Regarding the B1483 .............. it is a Brake pedal input circuit failure.
When you say you checked the low pressure fuel pressure could you post the pressure when cranking? Also, there is only one fuel pressure, at least until the injector compresses the fuel to increase its pressure. Lastly, have you checked to verify that the secondary fuel filter bowl will fill quickly when the key is turned on? Remove the secondary filter and have someone turn the jey on while you watch, Be ready to have the key turned off quickly.
Your post about the intermittent fuel smell has me wondering about fuel delivery and/or injectors.
Regarding the B1483 .............. it is a Brake pedal input circuit failure.
When you say you checked the low pressure fuel pressure could you post the pressure when cranking? Also, there is only one fuel pressure, at least until the injector compresses the fuel to increase its pressure. Lastly, have you checked to verify that the secondary fuel filter bowl will fill quickly when the key is turned on? Remove the secondary filter and have someone turn the jey on while you watch, Be ready to have the key turned off quickly.
Your post about the intermittent fuel smell has me wondering about fuel delivery and/or injectors.
The chime does work but have to mess with the key a bit. Fuel pressure is 55psi key on and while cranking. I have a fuel pressure gage installed at the regulator. Fuel bowl fills up quick and I did the bubble test as well. Yes I agree about the white unburnt fuel smoke, just now no smoke at all, this morning it filled the garage up.
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