I put my new driven gear on my cable and it will not go all the way in. Should I tork the cable retainer down so it will "hopefully" push the driven gear the rest of the way in ? Any body know any tricks ?

 

Have you tried putting the rear end up on stands, and transmission in neutral so you can turn the drive shaft with one hand while pushing the end into place?

 

Haven't tried John. Is that a normal method ?

 

Was the old DRIVEN gear nylon or cast iron, how many teeth did it have? Whatever it was, did you replace it with the same type?

 

oh don't I wish. This truck was missing a lot of things when I bought it, one of which was the driven gear. I bought an 18 tooth plastic one.

 

I don't know if it is a normal method. My thinking is that the two gears are not meshing and that by turning the drive shaft you will turn the transmission output shaft and allow them to mesh together. That is if they are compatible. I think ND has posted a picture showing the variety of gears that may be found.

 

did that method you suggested, still wouldn't slide in. I am now in process of removing u-joints at the transmission end so I can get the rear plate off transmission, just so I can take a peek to determine if there is a blockage or a different tooth gear other than own. Letting u-joints soak over night

 

still no luck ! I can't find a tab on rear end or tsansmission. is there a method to find the information that is on the tabs ?

 

What is the rear axle ratio, tire size and the wheelbase? 2WD or 4WD?

1963 F100: The 3 speed is the Ford type 3.03 all synchromesh, the rear axle is either a Ford 9" or a Dana 44.

Here's a pic of the trans, the speedo DRIVEN gear is 17271 .. the DRIVE gear on the output shaft is 17285

 

Something doesn't sound right (obviously!) - it sounds like you may have the incorrect driven gear. Here's a link to my speedo gear saga. It shows Bill's charts on drive/driven gear part numbers, and a chart showing the multitude of different gear styles which might be of assistance in resolving your issue.
Speedo Not Working
Can you see the drive gear in the gearbox through the hole where the driven gear is inserted? Some pics may help with our 'desktop diagnosis'. My trans had no tag either, so I had to identify it with a number of Google searches!
Best of luck with it - keep us posted as to how you get on with it.
Cam

 

One has to be careful when buying DRIVEN gears, because some have the teeth going this-away: \\\\\ ... Some have the teeth going that-away: /////

If the direction of the teeth is wrong, the DRIVEN gear will not mesh with the DRIVE gear.

Here's a pic from the 1965/72 car parts catalog showing the nylon DRIVEN gears, TYPES: 1 - 1A - 2 - 3 - 3A - 3B - 3C

Cars/trucks use the same nylon gears.

 

guess I'll open rear end to count teeth. 2WD w/short bed style side.

 

I was told by po that I had 4 speed. The plastic driven gear would not go in all the way. Then I got case number AB-7222-B and found out it is 3 speed. Bought another plastic driven gear and this is where I am. It doesn't go in all the way either.

 

thanks Nevada51. Say ?? You're not an alien are you ?

 

4 speed would have a floor shift, 1953/87 3 speed would have a column shift

No wonder you're having a problem, this is not a number from any case. This is the casting number of the side cover that the shift levers fit into.

And it's an early 1950's casting number, so the trans has been swapped because the 3.03 does not have a side cover (see pic in post #9).

The original type 3.03 trans has a synchro 1st gear, this means you can shift into first without it grinding. This trans was introduced in 1963.

1962 and earlier 3 speeds have a non syncro first gear, so to keep it from grinding while shifting into first, you have to double clutch.

Pic of 7222 side cover from 1949/59 car parts catalog: