I've been using it for a long time in the IDI and want to start running it in my PS Excursion. It only has one tank and the system is very different from the IDI so I'm hoping to hear from those who've been doing it and find out what you do about viscosity, and also filtration and any other little secrets to success. I recently discovered that the bucket my filtered oil goes into had a thick layer of goo at the bottom, like a low viscosity grease. It's been in use about 8 years. I then put some of my filtered oil in a centrifuge and was shocked that it would have that much goo in it after going through a 1 micron absolute filter. I plan to start running it all through a centrifuge I'm modifying, then the 1 micron filter, that should get the stuff pretty clean. I often add old gas to the oil and it seems to have a reaction with it, maybe that's what's causing stuff to separate out and give the layer of goo.-? If I'm adding gas to the oil I assume it should be done before going to the centrifuge.-? Some WVO users say they add gas then let it settle a few days and stuff does separate out of the mix.

I almost always have old gasoline around from various neglected vehicles I drain so I could use that to thin my oils, assuming that's safe to use in the PS. How close does the viscosity need to be to #2 for it to play nice with the injectors? If we had #1 diesel anywhere around here that might work too, but the climate here isn't cold enough for us to get that.

Let me know what you do and how well it's worked, and what hasn't worked.

 

Obviously you haven't let the naysayers discourage you from saving money by recycling WMO into something useful. I have been running WMO in several engines for about as long as you have. I just run it through a spin on transfer tank filter with a diaphragm pump. My philosophy is "the filter will catch anything that can't get through the nozzles on the injectors. And if it fits through the nozzle, then it's getting incinerated during combustion and pumped right back out the tailpipe. Whether it be tiny bits of metal or whatever." What I've found is that most fuel systems with unit injectors do pretty good on it because the high pressure required for injection takes place inside the injector instead of in an injection pump. But you may have proven that theory wrong with your IDI. I have a couple 7.3 PSDs that I run 100% WMO in the summer and have to blend some in winter. My fuel filter light comes on a lot and I lose power when it's cold and the oil's too thick so I'll usually add a little diesel until I'm getting the power I want. Even then I'd say I'm still no more than 15%-20% diesel (at the most) and the rest WMO. The truck I drive the most had pretty low compression when I got it 4 years ago. I've put over 50k miles on it running WMO. It just rolled over 300k on a trip to the dunes from here in NM to Glamis, CA pulling a 24' enclosed full of toys and gear. It had a K&N cotton filter on it when I got it so the engine got dusted. I put a big paper filter on it after I got it. It actually starts better in the cold on the oil than on diesel. I have to crank it a few times and cycle the glow plugs a few times to get it started. It makes a lot of smoke both before and after it starts. With the low compression, cold weather starts on diesel just wash the cylinders and lower the compression even more. Ether has the same effect but a lot worse. But the WMO helps the seal around the pistons and keep the compression up. We do something similar with an old screening plant that has a little I4 Deere motor that is pretty low on compression. Sometimes in the winter the guys will give it too much ether and it'll just start turning over real fast because the ether washes the cylinders and it loses all it's compression. So I unscrew a little pipe plug on the intake and pour some oil in there and that gets the compression back up so it'll start. A little oil along with the ether that's already in there and we're in business. Once the pistons get hot and grow a little then the engine's making power again. I know some are saying "just fix those old engines up with some new parts" but my fuel is free (with a little effort) and my old tired engines are still goin'. So why throw money at something that's making money just the way it is?

 

WMO does trash VP44 pumps for some reason. They'll still go the distance on WMO to cover the cost of a few new pumps but it does do something to them that I haven't been able to figure out yet. I thought I had it licked once but turns out I couldn't solve the mysteries lurking inside of the VP44.

 

 

Yo 88..now that im heading to Az, im gunna start burning wmo. Did the 100%wvo for 4yrs with NO effect but saving $$. WMO route, ill reinvest in a penn centrifuge and a coned 55gal drum. First mix to start will be 50/50 then cut more with oil until she spits then back off some...

 

Thanks for the info and encouragement guys.

 

There may be some minerals, definitely some metals, probably some water, and it's possibly acidic. You could get the stuff totally clean by processing it like the petroleum plants do, but that's too much for me. I filter down to 1 micron absolute so there are no solids getting into my tank bigger than that. For reference the stock fuel filters are somewhere around 15 micron nominal. Nominal means that some stuff bigger than the micron rating can pass through, absolute means nothing bigger can pass. I've heard that some of the latest diesels have 4 micron filters, probably a nominal rating.

My modified centrifuge didn't work as well as I'd hoped so have have modification #2 in the works which I think will work really well. That'll remove some stuff that the filter can't and it'll make my filter last a lot longer.