You guys are geniuses. (Stuck distributor)
#1
12-15-2018, 03:02 PM
You guys are geniuses. (Stuck distributor)
I've been trying for weeks to get my distributor unstuck so I could try to set the timing. The thing was really in there. I'd been putting PB Blast on it whenever I'd go out to work on it, but had no luck.
Reading through the forum I saw a post about making a little dam in front of it with clay (I used playdough) and filling it with vinegar to dissolve oxidation.... and what do you know? After letting the vinegar sit for 30 minutes the distributor finally popped free!
Now, I know nothing about timing (this whole thing is a learning experience for me), but when I broke my new timing light out I found that, at idle with the vacuum hose off the distributor, my timing was set at 30 btdc. I believe (from reading here) that is WAY too much, so I set it down to 10 btdc, which seemed to make it happier. With some throttle it went up to a little under 30. With the vacuum advance hooked back up it was somewhere over 30.
Does that sound right?
Anyway, really just wanted to say thanks to the person who wrote that sage advice. I couldn't find the original thread again.
Reading through the forum I saw a post about making a little dam in front of it with clay (I used playdough) and filling it with vinegar to dissolve oxidation.... and what do you know? After letting the vinegar sit for 30 minutes the distributor finally popped free!
Now, I know nothing about timing (this whole thing is a learning experience for me), but when I broke my new timing light out I found that, at idle with the vacuum hose off the distributor, my timing was set at 30 btdc. I believe (from reading here) that is WAY too much, so I set it down to 10 btdc, which seemed to make it happier. With some throttle it went up to a little under 30. With the vacuum advance hooked back up it was somewhere over 30.
Does that sound right?
Anyway, really just wanted to say thanks to the person who wrote that sage advice. I couldn't find the original thread again.
#2
12-15-2018, 03:17 PM
We were talking about this on another thread just today, the vacuum advance hose is disconnected and the port plugged whenever setting the initial or "base" timing for this reason. The vacuum signal will start to pull in just off idle or, maybe 600 RPM or 700 RPM once the throttle butterflies start to open up and starts to add in more timing. That's what it's supposed to do, no worries.
It's a little unnerving (be careful of the radiator fan) but while the the vacuum advance is disconnected and plugged the maximum mechanical advance should be checked as well with a timing light by revving the engine up 2000, 3000+ RPM, usually for V8 it will top out somewhere around 34° to 36° BTDC or so. This high number is more important than whatever the initial or base setting is. It's important too, check that the vacuum advance mechanism moves freely including the breaker plate, and that the vacuum diaphragm doesn't leak. Take it for a test drive before hooking the vacuum advance back up. Try some full throttle accelerations and maybe try adding in a bit more timing. Back off slightly when it starts to knock or ping. The published numbers are a good place to start, but every engine is a little bit different.
It's a little unnerving (be careful of the radiator fan) but while the the vacuum advance is disconnected and plugged the maximum mechanical advance should be checked as well with a timing light by revving the engine up 2000, 3000+ RPM, usually for V8 it will top out somewhere around 34° to 36° BTDC or so. This high number is more important than whatever the initial or base setting is. It's important too, check that the vacuum advance mechanism moves freely including the breaker plate, and that the vacuum diaphragm doesn't leak. Take it for a test drive before hooking the vacuum advance back up. Try some full throttle accelerations and maybe try adding in a bit more timing. Back off slightly when it starts to knock or ping. The published numbers are a good place to start, but every engine is a little bit different.
#4
12-15-2018, 04:16 PM
Senior User
At least you can see something! On mine the timing marks are completely rusted over can't see anything at all. Did my timing by ear for now till I get a new balancer. Add to this the fact that Ford calls front cylinder passenger side number 1 instead of driver's side like the Mopars I've always owned so was a real drag doing timing for me. Hahaha
#5
12-15-2018, 04:45 PM
#6
12-15-2018, 10:20 PM
At least you can see something! On mine the timing marks are completely rusted over can't see anything at all. Did my timing by ear for now till I get a new balancer. Add to this the fact that Ford calls front cylinder passenger side number 1 instead of driver's side like the Mopars I've always owned so was a real drag doing timing for me. Hahaha
#7
12-15-2018, 10:29 PM
Senior User
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#8
12-16-2018, 03:40 PM
Laughing Gas
#9
12-17-2018, 10:52 PM
Extending out the existing marks, or making your own tape is easy. Nobody offers one for Y-blocks, so that's what I did. It is always a good idea to verify the "0" TDC mark on the damper with any "new" engine. It is very common to find defective dampers on older engines. This may be the rule and not the exception.
https://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/..._a_timing_tape
https://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/..._a_timing_tape
- Using either a string, ruler or a seamstress' cloth tape measure, measure the circumference of the damper. If you only have a straight ruler, measure the diameter and multiply by 3.1416 (pi) to get the circumference.
- Once the circumference is known, 1/10 (10%) of this figure represents 36º. Half of that is 18º, half again is 9º, etc. It doesn't matter what units are used to measure the circumference- metric, inch, or nanoparsecs.
- If you want to use the metric system, multiply the circumference by 25.4 to convert to millimeters. Divide this by 360 and you'll get the measurement in millimeters that equal one degree.
- Careful measurement and marking of the degrees in this fashion on a length of masking tape can then be applied to the damper, aligning TDC or "0" on the tape to the line on the balancer, with the degrees BTDC to the right of this mark.
90 degree lines
It's a good idea to mark the damper at 90 degree increments starting from TDC. These 90 degree lines can be helpful used when adjusting valve lash for example.
#10
12-18-2018, 05:25 AM
Senior User
And to find TDC on a dampener with no marks (like mine) you can..... take all the plugs out and the valve cover off for #1 cylinder, turn the motor by hand clockwise till #1 valves are both closed and compression stroke is beginning, stick a 1ft length of wooden dowel in #1 spark plug hole and then turn the motor clockwise again until it won't turn because the piston jammed against the dowel. Now put a mark on the dampener where the pointer is pointing. Now turn the motor counterclockwise till it stops and put another mark there. Exactly in between those two marks will be TDC. Not very high tech but it works.
#11
12-18-2018, 09:31 AM
#12
12-18-2018, 10:45 AM
Senior User
No I'm saying mine were completely gone probably from years of holding sandpaper against it while it was running to find the marks. Once I refound TDC I used a cutoff wheel to make new marks using the mathematical method above. Good enough till I have a reason to put in the new dampener I got.
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