6.0 vs. 6.7
#1
6.0 vs. 6.7
Hi Folks,
At some point in the somewhat near future, I will buying a used Ford Diesel Powerstroke Truck (can't afford new).
The reason for this is that my hay hauling/delivery situation has changed, and I intend to take matters into my own hands, and just do it myself.
I am also buying a goose neck flat bed trailer (25'-30') which may also, at times, haul a tractor, skidsteer, or automobile.
The truck will probably have about 5K miles a year put on it.
I completely realize that the 6.7 is a beast, with 400+ H.P., and 800 ft. lbs. of torque.
I'm looking at '06 and '07 vintage 6.0 Trucks - with all the upgrades and low mileage. They have approx. 325 H.P. and 500+ ft. lbs. of torque.
P.S - I ONLY want a dually - LOVE 'em!
My question: Would a nice '06/'07 Truck do the job of delivering a trailer load full of hay at least once a month (for approx. 10K-15K less in price - current market) as well as a newer, more expensive 2012, '13, '14 6.7 Truck?
It's a big investment for us - we are in the "gathering information" mode right now. This forum is AWESOME!
Here's one of the trailers we plan on getting: https://www.bigtextrailers.com/22gn-...axle-gooseneck
Thanks!
Bob
At some point in the somewhat near future, I will buying a used Ford Diesel Powerstroke Truck (can't afford new).
The reason for this is that my hay hauling/delivery situation has changed, and I intend to take matters into my own hands, and just do it myself.
I am also buying a goose neck flat bed trailer (25'-30') which may also, at times, haul a tractor, skidsteer, or automobile.
The truck will probably have about 5K miles a year put on it.
I completely realize that the 6.7 is a beast, with 400+ H.P., and 800 ft. lbs. of torque.
I'm looking at '06 and '07 vintage 6.0 Trucks - with all the upgrades and low mileage. They have approx. 325 H.P. and 500+ ft. lbs. of torque.
P.S - I ONLY want a dually - LOVE 'em!
My question: Would a nice '06/'07 Truck do the job of delivering a trailer load full of hay at least once a month (for approx. 10K-15K less in price - current market) as well as a newer, more expensive 2012, '13, '14 6.7 Truck?
It's a big investment for us - we are in the "gathering information" mode right now. This forum is AWESOME!
Here's one of the trailers we plan on getting: https://www.bigtextrailers.com/22gn-...axle-gooseneck
Thanks!
Bob
#3
#4
One other thing I was wondering, guys.
What about a later version 2000-2003 7.3 truck that is in really good condition with low miles?
I've been seeing a few of them in my search. I understand they're supposed to be very reliable.
I need to look up the numbers, and see what the H.P. and Torque numbers are.
For the type of pulling I'll be doing, it may work well, also.
What about a later version 2000-2003 7.3 truck that is in really good condition with low miles?
I've been seeing a few of them in my search. I understand they're supposed to be very reliable.
I need to look up the numbers, and see what the H.P. and Torque numbers are.
For the type of pulling I'll be doing, it may work well, also.
#6
I'll chime in since I've been driving around my 1999 7.3 for about 3 years now.
Pros:
-Extremely reliable
-Will tow just about anything you hook behind it (this is true for all powerstrokes though lol)
-Good fuel economy for a 7,000lbs+ truck (mine gets about 14-15 in town and 19-20 on the highway on 33 inch all terrains)
-Decent power once a tuner is added (still slow compared to a tuned 6.0 or a stock 6.7 though)
-Sounds like a diesel (this could be a con if you don't like loud motors)
If you've never driven one, you'll probably be a tad disappointed with the stock power. Ford dialed the power back on them from the factory for maximum reliability. Not a whole lot happens in the acceleration department until about 2300rpms on a stock 7.3. However, I was used to driving a 2006 5.4 super duty, so the stock 7.3 felt like a rocket ship for a while compared to the 5.4. Now with a dually, which I believe most if not all, came with 4.10 gears from the factory will be a little better in the acceleration department due to the steeper gears. Now once a trailer is hooked up, it's a totally different animal. They take a little bit to get up to speed, but once in overdrive, they'll lug along pretty good.
Cons:
-Auto Transmission is weak (I'd look for a manual if you can find one, especially with the loads you plan on towing)
-The truck rides like a solid axle leaf-sprung truck (they ride better with a load like all 3/4 ton and heavier trucks)
-Loud (could be a pro)
-Less power than other powerstrokes (highest rating was 275hp and 525tq. in 2003)
This is just off the top of my head, if you ever want more info, check out the 99-03 7.3 section of the forum. Lot of guys over there with a lot more info than me. Hope this helps
Pros:
-Extremely reliable
-Will tow just about anything you hook behind it (this is true for all powerstrokes though lol)
-Good fuel economy for a 7,000lbs+ truck (mine gets about 14-15 in town and 19-20 on the highway on 33 inch all terrains)
-Decent power once a tuner is added (still slow compared to a tuned 6.0 or a stock 6.7 though)
-Sounds like a diesel (this could be a con if you don't like loud motors)
If you've never driven one, you'll probably be a tad disappointed with the stock power. Ford dialed the power back on them from the factory for maximum reliability. Not a whole lot happens in the acceleration department until about 2300rpms on a stock 7.3. However, I was used to driving a 2006 5.4 super duty, so the stock 7.3 felt like a rocket ship for a while compared to the 5.4. Now with a dually, which I believe most if not all, came with 4.10 gears from the factory will be a little better in the acceleration department due to the steeper gears. Now once a trailer is hooked up, it's a totally different animal. They take a little bit to get up to speed, but once in overdrive, they'll lug along pretty good.
Cons:
-Auto Transmission is weak (I'd look for a manual if you can find one, especially with the loads you plan on towing)
-The truck rides like a solid axle leaf-sprung truck (they ride better with a load like all 3/4 ton and heavier trucks)
-Loud (could be a pro)
-Less power than other powerstrokes (highest rating was 275hp and 525tq. in 2003)
This is just off the top of my head, if you ever want more info, check out the 99-03 7.3 section of the forum. Lot of guys over there with a lot more info than me. Hope this helps
#7
I'm going to try to keep this short. Theres alot to learn and expect owning a 6.0. In the used truck market you can find a time Bomb or a truck that will give you 200k+ service. Most comes down to prior ownership and work that was done, most importantly you being able to recognize attributes.
I would start reading in the tech folder of this forum. Learn what to look for and what it means to make a solid repair instead of short cuts that will burn you later.
As far as 6.7's go, one day I will probably own one. It will be used and a 2015 or newer. Again like the 6.0's they went through changes and that is what I'd prefer.
I currently own an 05 F350 DRW and love it. 189k miles now with studs, new o-ringed heads, ect. as of 4k miles ago.
I think my rig is close to what you're looking for. It's not for sale. Best of luck in your decisions.
I would start reading in the tech folder of this forum. Learn what to look for and what it means to make a solid repair instead of short cuts that will burn you later.
As far as 6.7's go, one day I will probably own one. It will be used and a 2015 or newer. Again like the 6.0's they went through changes and that is what I'd prefer.
I currently own an 05 F350 DRW and love it. 189k miles now with studs, new o-ringed heads, ect. as of 4k miles ago.
I think my rig is close to what you're looking for. It's not for sale. Best of luck in your decisions.
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#11
My .02
I’ve towed with a 94 7.3 turbo mt, a 93 5.9 Cummins mt, a 99 7.3 mt, and a 04 6.0 at. Various weights from 5-25k. I would pick the 04 6.0 any day of the week, especially with the auto. With a man, definitely a 7.3. Test drove a 04 6.0 manual and a 05 5,9 ctd manual, hated them. The auto kept the 6.0 in its power range, but the 7.3 is pretty good all around. Plus the newer autos are worlds better than pre-03 anything. No experience with the 6.7, but I hear good things. For reliability, I’d either go newer or low miles with a good history.
I’ve towed with a 94 7.3 turbo mt, a 93 5.9 Cummins mt, a 99 7.3 mt, and a 04 6.0 at. Various weights from 5-25k. I would pick the 04 6.0 any day of the week, especially with the auto. With a man, definitely a 7.3. Test drove a 04 6.0 manual and a 05 5,9 ctd manual, hated them. The auto kept the 6.0 in its power range, but the 7.3 is pretty good all around. Plus the newer autos are worlds better than pre-03 anything. No experience with the 6.7, but I hear good things. For reliability, I’d either go newer or low miles with a good history.
#12
I've only had 6.0s, but I've had good luck with them. They just haven't had good luck with me. Almost every problem Ive had has been my own fault. But, I'm learning from my mistakes.
Personally, I buy from the auto auctions (Copart, IAA, Richie Bros). I look for low mileage (less than 150k for 05-07) and indications that they seem to have been well maintained - basically, someone's "baby" that got in a wreck that was the other guy's fault. Over 10 years old, when banks no longer lend on them, they get a lot cheaper and it doesn't take much of a wreck for the insurance company to total them. Look for either a Run&Drive or Engine Start rating (depending on how it was wrecked), if you're not willing to roll the dice. I've scored big time on a couple that were "non-runners." One had been sabotaged so it'd go cheap - they just pulled the wire to the IPR valve so it wouldn't start. I plugged it in and it fired right up. Another had the exhaust missing from the Ypipe back. Technically a non-runner, but fired right up. I like the non-runner theft recoveries - you know it was running when they stole it.
I pay less than $7k for them and maybe spend $2-3K getting it road worthy (body work, change all the fluids/filters, etc.). The miles you're talking about, it should last 7-10 with routine maintenance.
But, yes, spend time in this forum to learn the most common problems or you'll have to learn the same mistakes I made.
BTW, you have to have cash. Again, banks don't lend on older than 10 years and, of course, not on salvage titles. Also, the trucks go for more at Richie Bros and usually aren't wrecked and have clean titles, but they charge the seller their fees, whereas Copart and IAA charge the buyer, so the price difference really isn't that much.
Personally, I buy from the auto auctions (Copart, IAA, Richie Bros). I look for low mileage (less than 150k for 05-07) and indications that they seem to have been well maintained - basically, someone's "baby" that got in a wreck that was the other guy's fault. Over 10 years old, when banks no longer lend on them, they get a lot cheaper and it doesn't take much of a wreck for the insurance company to total them. Look for either a Run&Drive or Engine Start rating (depending on how it was wrecked), if you're not willing to roll the dice. I've scored big time on a couple that were "non-runners." One had been sabotaged so it'd go cheap - they just pulled the wire to the IPR valve so it wouldn't start. I plugged it in and it fired right up. Another had the exhaust missing from the Ypipe back. Technically a non-runner, but fired right up. I like the non-runner theft recoveries - you know it was running when they stole it.
I pay less than $7k for them and maybe spend $2-3K getting it road worthy (body work, change all the fluids/filters, etc.). The miles you're talking about, it should last 7-10 with routine maintenance.
But, yes, spend time in this forum to learn the most common problems or you'll have to learn the same mistakes I made.
BTW, you have to have cash. Again, banks don't lend on older than 10 years and, of course, not on salvage titles. Also, the trucks go for more at Richie Bros and usually aren't wrecked and have clean titles, but they charge the seller their fees, whereas Copart and IAA charge the buyer, so the price difference really isn't that much.
#13
I bought a GMC Suburban new in 1994, removed the front plate in 1995 after my wife "bumped" a concrete pole breaking the plate mount.
Sold the Sub in 2014 after getting my current 2005 F350. Never even got a second "look" from the cops in 19 years.......
#14
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superduty4x4
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
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09-11-2008 10:59 AM