This will help - https://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/94...an/stjmain.htm Also, make sure to post pictures please. We love vehicle ****.

Do valve springs while the engine is out.

Consider e-fuel while this deep. EGT bung if you do not have one. Make sure those uppipes are not leaking.

 

If you do valve springs, shim them. Head studs are a good idea also. etc. etc. it never stops, lol.

 

 

 

It tested great on the compression test and dosnt have much blow by and it doesn’t burn oil so Iam not going to pull the heads or the pistons just want to check the bearings. Ive got all new seals and o rings and gaskets its getting a water pump and hpop gaskets and o rings and a riff raff 4-4 turbo wheel

 

 

You would be surprised how beat to **** high mile heads are on these, factory springs are very weak stock with age even worse...mine were in the low 70s for seat pressure at factory height! Not including worn seats and as the seats plus valves wear, you have less and less seat pressure. Mine were so clapped out, I could spin the spring on the seat BY HAND. Put boost on the backside of the valve and you can easily have them crack open. I turn same RPM as stock, but my valvetrain stability and ability to rev is totally different than stock. For $100 or so with shims, why would you not at this point? I recommend it to anyone with one of these trucks. With the engine out, you will be able to do them really fast. It also helps resale if you had to for some reason.

Do injector orings while it is all apart and consider injector shims too, if they are the original sticks. My cold starts are quite a bit easier now, for $75 it cannot be easier than now.

Also, budget a fresh LPOP while access is easy. I went with Melling as it comes recommended by everyone.

 

Unless you are having oil pressure problems I'd not worry about the bearings.. I've pulled motors apart with 300000 miles on them and could use the bearings over again. These things are not hard on bearings unless you abuse them.
But like stated before if your going to do them anyway you may as well do rings and heads

Just my opinion tho..

I'm doing 1 right now and I've done some of the stuff mentioned Pistons rings bearings valve springs heads all o rings and seals

 

 

Okay. Good luck with it.

 

 

 

Comp Cam 910-16 valve springs. And shim to the required height.

 

If you do decide to do the bearings, I would not replace any rod bolts. Anytime new rod bolts are used you should get the rods resized. I would clean everything good, a little oil on the threads and torque to spec.