Well let me start off by saying that I didnt research this motor well before I bought the truck. Something I'll never do again! Also, I cannot sell it trade in as I have only had it a few months, and I would stand to lose between 4 and 7 thousand depending on how bad the dealership wanted to rape me.

Back story:
2009 f350 CC SRW 6.4 diesel. Deleted, cooler delete and egr delete, 4 inch down pipe 5 inch exhaust. Tuner stays on the mild tune on the tow setting and it defuels to stock levels until ECT is 180 degrees. It also defuels if boost exceeds 36 psi.

about a month ago I checked the codes and had a cylinder 2 contribution code. No driveability issues. No smoke, no nothing. I cleared the codes and ran several tanks through with diesel kleen and the code never came back.

fast forward to Thanksgiving, I was moving some wood to the burn pit and the truck started smoking really bad. Smelled like raw diesel. I shut her down and let her cool off. I started her back up a few minutes later and she ran fine. No smoke, no driveability issues, nothing. Ran great. About 2 minutes after I started her again, it started smoking real bad with the raw diesel smell again and was chugging at idle like it was going to die. Shaking and sputtering and smoking. I turned it off and pushed it into the garage. I pulled the codes and got a cylinder 2 contribution code and a cylinder 2 misfire code. Nothing else. And the cel never lit up...kinda weird. I started her one more time to check for excessive blow by and she ran perfect with no smoke and no excessive blow by.

what's been done so far:

all of this led me to believe injector hanging open so I got one from the local dealer and installed the next day. I made sure that the oring was well lubricated, torqued everything according to the shop manual specs, and put her back together. I cleared the codes and primed the fuel system, and she fired up on the first turn of the key after priming with no smoke. Ran perfect. No issues at all drove it to work a few times and she ran great. No smoke or driveability issues.
yesterday, my wife went down to the bus stop in it and it started shaking again so she turned it off like I told her to. I got home and it had cylinder 2 misfire and contribution codes again.

I know I have to pull the glow plugs now and do a compression test, but am I missing something? I dont see how a melted or cracked piston would cause intermittent smoking and driveability issues I would think that would not go away. I didnt clear the adaptive fuel tables because I am not sure how to do that with forscan, but would that continue to cause issues? I re downloaded the tune to the pcm thinking that would clear the adaptive Values. Maybe not though.

I am going to do a compression test, and I guess that'll tell me where I stand. I have a very bad feeling I'm getting ready to spend a lot of money...

 

 

Do I need to pull all of the glow plugs or just cyl 2?

I am assuming that the pushrod needs to be removed to check if bent? Also rocker arm removed to check for wear? I saw somewhere to blow air into the glow plug hole to make sure there is no air escaping into the intake with the rockers removed

 

 

My vote is to do 2 first. See if it is the culprit. But I would record and do the entire bank. Comparisons may way in and you just don't have one baby. You could very well have quadruplits and the thought process goes another way. If they pump up to spec, I would swap my GP's out and sleep a little. I know how you feel about previous research! I don't have a barrel pointed at my *** cheek right now, but I do look over my shoulder.

Fair skys!


Denny

 

why swap GPs? Replace with new or swap between cylinders?

 

If rockers and rods look to be ok, Compression is in spec, button it up...........but how old are the plugs. If that bank checks out, you allready have them out and it's not a deal breaker.

Hoping beyond hope it's a rocker or bent rod as FritZ said above.

Denny

 

I just ordered the adapter to do the compression. I'll post back on Friday once I have the numbers. I am hoping it's a rocker or rod. I'm assuming either of those I can just replace and keep going?

 

when i bent pushrods on my diesel it was pretty obvious when i pulled the valve cover off.

 

I feel like if it was a hard part it would be a constant problem. This doesnt always have the shakes. It runs really good...until it doesnt...then it runs good again after you restart it

 

How you doing?

Just wondering! I know you from the 7.3 forum and I made the same jump. Keep us appraised of your status please.

Denny

 

Shes still in the garage. I am waiting on my compression tester adapter to come in which should be tomorrow or Friday. As soon as I have those numbers I'll post them and I will keep the thread updated.

side note, does anyone have a picture comparison between old and new rocker arms with the wear points I'm looking for?

 

heres a few from internet

 

Awesome thanks! Is it just the one side that has the tips? And do the color of the plastic clips mean anything? I do remember mine were yellow

 

Just the valve side has the *cramped on tips that remind me of a gauged ear dude with assloads of face piercings controlling your wallet). Who The F engineered this?

Using plastic clips on the saddle baffles the crap out of me as well.

Believe Black is oem. Handing that one off tho. Unsure and don't want to mislead. Fritz will chime in, he's got a bucket of them under his pillow.

You got your VC off and glow plugs out yet?

I've been pondering your situation. Did you inspect your wiring looms to make sure your injectors aren't getting shorted. If one has an intermittent disruption, it could very well be dumping fuel out the poop shoot and fine the next day. Might be worth setting up an ohm meter or doing a continuity test on each member and wiggle things and see if you get a spike or a tone.

Denny