2 year old engine was running great. Friday, didn't want to start, finnaly started, didn't want to run, wont rev and NO POWER.

I nursed it the gas station and filled the low tank - engine starts and runs barely. steep hill streets are 3 gear. initial trouble shooting dead driver side bank


Trouble shot some today, replaced CPS, no improvement.

Shorted terminals on the GPR cranked - she started barely. wouldn't rev over 1000 - takes 15 seconds or more to get that high. Checking exhaust manifold temps - passenger side is dead this time.

The UVCH and glow plugs and ECM are all 2 yrs old

IDM is aged.

Sounds like the IDM, if I guess

I am almost positive one bank was bad, and the next time the other side was cold.

I guess I should pop the cover for burnt wire check - in case that's what toasted the icm

The starter is getting slow too. I'm pretty sure it's several years old.

Anything I'm forgetting?

 

You got a good start on it. It sounds like UVCH, was it dorman brand? Some guys have had bad luck with those.

 

Pull the wiring harness from the valve cover and look for melted connector, on both the harness and the valve cover gasket. The glow plug pin can over heat and melt the plug allowing the injector pin to ground to the glow plug pin. The IDM can shut one bank down to protect itself. The under cover wiring can do the same.

 

Thanks Gents, your help is appreciated. I try and research but nuttin beats sperence.

The UVCW was supplied with the engine rebuild. 2 years and 25,000 mile ago. It was a stock rebuild with split shot injectors. Has a 3" down pipe and 4" open exhaust. Nuttin special. General use truck, built for moderate towing.

Last check, no fault codes - if the IDM shut down 1/2 the engine, shouldn't that should trigger codes?

I thought I was sure one bank was cold one time, and the other bank was cold the next time it ran. That makes me think IDM

Will the IDM reset or is it toast?

I'm going to swap the CPS back, the rebuild came with the light grey, I put a Dk grey in for luck.

And I think I want to start it with the analyzer hooked up see if it throws any code or strange readings

 

Ohm out from the IDM side to see if all is ok

 

If the wiring is faulty, the IDM will "reset" itself after the wiring is repaired. You might want to remove the IDM and give it a shake, and listen for water in it. If you hear water in it, the IDM is most likely toast. If you know someone with a 7.3, try and put your IDM in that truck. If the problem follows you IDM you know that it is the problem.

 

The part that has me awestruck is the apparent ability to shut down what ever bank it feels like.
That also makes me think the UVCH is probably good, but due for inspection.

Which one would you start with?

Passenger side? Easiest access, last cold bank when running.

I think I'll pull the IDM and check for moisture first
I was looking for a new module, sponsors here are about 3 times over competitors prices.

I'm considering buying a spare truck for testing and parts.
and moving to a warmer climate.

 

pull IDM and check for water and OHM IDM connector out to see what side might be shorted out

 

The dead side UVCH checks good for flight.

The IDM appears to have been serviced with a crow bar, The lid is bent and warped. Shouldn't have much water in it with that much ventilation.

I ordered a new IDM. (From site sponsor)
What's up with having to register with a third site to activate a warranty???

In the interim, I have a clevis mod for the clutch pivot, battery cables and a starter that will fail first time temps drop to 0.


proper prep prevents poopy performance

Thanks to contributors and forum

 

You can put the UVCH in and replace it all and there is a possibility it can go in the first week.

If its not ford OEM, I wouldn't trust it at all. I switched mine over to the Super Duty setup, way happier with that. Those connectors love to melt on the old harnesses. It's hard to tell, but if the IDM looks like that, i'd try replaceing it first and seeing whats going on.

Best thing to do is to get a buzz test done, that will tell you if the IDM is working proper or not. But the truck generally wont run on just 1 bank. It can run on 6 or 7 cylinders though.

 

I have an ingrained politically incorrect attitude towards Chinese anything. (Ok, anything I can't eat)
And I am learning the potential economy of true Ford parts. - things I didn't know during the rebuild.

These beasts are too big to push, and we know the agony of a truck that wants to be stubborn, cantankerous or otherwise uncooperative.

I know it's telling me to tend to the shortcomings now, before the snow flies (again).

Cables, (still) Starter and clutch linkages. Piece of cake. And investigate further upgrades

Thank you for your time and sharing your knowlege

 

Flagship One says it will ship today. Not bad.

HEADS UP<<< >>> If you need a IDM, ECU etc, if you put it in a shopping cart, they send you a discount coupon the next day. And the next. And the next.

Good service, thier lifetime warranty is a major pain to activate.

I'll have a couple days to do the clutch rod and starter.

I got a feelin at least 2 and maybe all 4 UVCH spares in the garage, of good quality would be good insurance. Somehow, if I have back-up - that's not what breaks.

I'll be back on this thread and may start a short photo thread of the clutch rod fix. I have an idea to press the link pin out for the heim joint attachment.

 

IDM arrived early.

fixed it.

 

Thanks for reporting back, glad you got it!