Simple ? Wiring ? 1963 F-100
#1
Simple ? Wiring ? 1963 F-100
I am replacing all light bulb sockets for front parking and rear taillights. I'm having trouble with left front. There is a 2 terminal plug at each light. I connected continuity tester to each terminal of the plug and it shows power, but I can't get the bulb to light up. Any one see a mistake I made ?
#2
so I had an issue similar with my front right light a few weeks ago while installing wiring and bulbs. The little ear on the bulb was missing off the side. The nub going into the socket made contact with the connection, but the ground on the side (think frankenstiens neck plug) was broken off and I didn't see it. I had a ground wire to the core support hooked up correct.
Maybe something to look at. try that bulb in the other light socket.
Maybe something to look at. try that bulb in the other light socket.
#3
I am replacing all light bulb sockets for front parking and rear taillights. I'm having trouble with left front. There is a 2 terminal plug at each light. I connected continuity tester to each terminal of the plug and it shows power, but I can't get the bulb to light up. Any one see a mistake I made ?
If you are checking for continuity, you should not see any power, as that's what the voltmeter is for. A continuity check is to see if there is resistance or a break in a wire or continuity to ground, etc...
if the socket has power and the light doesn't light, then you probably don't have the socket grounded. With power to the socket, you have to have a ground to complete the path.
#4
Maybe this is just semantics, but are you saying you have power to both leads using the voltmeter?
If you are checking for continuity, you should not see any power, as that's what the voltmeter is for. A continuity check is to see if there is resistance or a break in a wire or continuity to ground, etc...
if the socket has power and the light doesn't light, then you probably don't have the socket grounded. With power to the socket, you have to have a ground to complete the path.
If you are checking for continuity, you should not see any power, as that's what the voltmeter is for. A continuity check is to see if there is resistance or a break in a wire or continuity to ground, etc...
if the socket has power and the light doesn't light, then you probably don't have the socket grounded. With power to the socket, you have to have a ground to complete the path.
#5
so I had an issue similar with my front right light a few weeks ago while installing wiring and bulbs. The little ear on the bulb was missing off the side. The nub going into the socket made contact with the connection, but the ground on the side (think frankenstiens neck plug) was broken off and I didn't see it. I had a ground wire to the core support hooked up correct.
Maybe something to look at. try that bulb in the other light socket.
Maybe something to look at. try that bulb in the other light socket.
#6
The socket body should be in contact with the frame to provide the ground. If there is paint or rust preventing good contact, it should be removed. Or, you could solder a wire to the base and screw the other end into the frame. The most common electrical problem with our old trucks is no ground.
You said the left light isn't working. So the right light is working?
You said the left light isn't working. So the right light is working?
#7
The socket body should be in contact with the frame to provide the ground. If there is paint or rust preventing good contact, it should be removed. Or, you could solder a wire to the base and screw the other end into the frame. The most common electrical problem with our old trucks is no ground.
You said the left light isn't working. So the right light is working?
You said the left light isn't working. So the right light is working?
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#8
Here's the circuit for the '63 from Fordification.com. It's quite simple. 12 volts supplied to either wire going into the socket will illuminate that filament IF the socket is grounded to the frame AND the filaments are not broken.
#9
A pen type test light works good, the inexpensive kind with the alligator clip. Start where everything works. Say at the firewall connector. If it doesn't work there, then it's something under the dash or in the steering column. Isolate it or divide in half that way. Turn the lights on, trip the turn signal, and verify that the test light illuminates at the firewall when grounded. Then reconnect the plug and move up closer to the front socket testing each connector along the way.
#10
A pen type test light works good, the inexpensive kind with the alligator clip. Start where everything works. Say at the firewall connector. If it doesn't work there, then it's something under the dash or in the steering column. Isolate it or divide in half that way. Turn the lights on, trip the turn signal, and verify that the test light illuminates at the firewall when grounded. Then reconnect the plug and move up closer to the front socket testing each connector along the way.
#11
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