I believe this is a coil pack problem. I can't find good conclusive links for the replacement of these. I'm thinking of replacing the pcv valve while in there as well. If able will someone provide solid links with part numbers so I can order parts asap and read threads to understand what I need to do start to finish? Thanks Y'all.

 

Well the blinking light never ends well for the cats. Also the PCV is a heated unit and located in the manifold and not the valve cover. I don't have all the part numbers handy but use your vin https://parts.ford.com/autonationfordwhitebearlake and then use the 20 percent off coupon.

 

Damn! Blinking light happened only twice, after first time I changed two rear oxygen sensors then had second blinking light happen after change of O2 sensor. I'm super smart at being stupid so looking for a walk through guide with pictures I can read a couple times then in my style I go out and knock the job out quickly via memory. I'll check the site You referenced. Often times some folks swear on certain brand parts, was looking for that too. Don't plan on ever changing coil packs again haha so looking for good ol trusties

 

Hello there, it's always best list the codes and let people on here come up with their own determination . we have some really good diagnostic people on here more than willing to help . if you don't have a code reader I would suggest Torque Pro app for $5, cheap Android phone, a cheap Amazon bluetooth reader . you may be having misfires ,Torque Pro under test results gives you be raw computer counts for misfires for each cylinder, otherwise known as mode six . Ideally you want zero counts, it gives you the number that will set a check engine light as Ford has set that quite High . OEM coils are best just clean all the contacts and do the plug job correctly . it is important to not overuse Dielectric grease on new boots .
Boots go bad from oil gas and antifreeze . they are not that expensive and should be done every plug job which is now no longer than 60k mile . Your year is a transition year for the heads so you need to look at the engine sticker on the side of the valve cover to get the correct plugs and coils . Maybe Pull a cop/plug on an easy cylinder to get correct boots and plugs .
It is very important that plugs be torqued with a torque wrench 25 -28 foot pounds . start plugs buy Finger then use a rubber socket with care as these are aluminum heads .

There is an amazing amount of information available on Torque Pro and some very good people on here to interpret the results .
My 05 has the PCV baffle and the valve cover, I cleaned it when I did my timing job, Factory wants you to replace valve cover ..haha not me .

 

there it is, going to do in depth research on what You've suggested RedFish. Thank You. P.S. fergot to add there isn't a engine code to read currently. Only code I had was the 2 rear oxygen sensor codes which code is gone now.

 

I'm doubting it's a coil pak issue. Seems most go right for the COP's or plugs when there's a misfire because those are the low hanging fruit. Often times, that isn't the problem. Blinking wrench light on the dash, bad O2 sensors replaced? I'm going with plugged catalytic converter(s).

 

Aw nah hell nah haha cats get expensy. It's a blinking service engine light. Ain't seen the wrench yet. I'm gonna clean coil pack contacts as per suggested by others but bought truck with 188,xxx miles and now have 274,xxx without ever touching plugs so going to change those anyhow. Then will judge performance and perhaps change cats depending. This YouTube video is best imho so far.

 

Not a bad video . But the carb cleaner is to get past the threads to the carbon ed up plug tip . That stuff seizes the plug . New sp 546 is not weak and should not separate . ford no longer recommends anti seize too many people were getting it on too thick and on the tip . Nickel anti seize good for 2400 degrees f . I still use a thin coat and thinner on the treads .
Sp 515s had a weld problem sp546 redesign was quietly inserted . Carbon will break plugs going out or in .
You should clean the plug tip area of cyl to get that carbon out off there ,carb cleaner is best . Do a good job . Cop bolts ,it is nice in salt country to put some anti seize on them . Clean all cop contacts real good . Keep dielectric grease off metal parts it is an insulator ,a little won't hurt , but just try to put it on thin on rubber boot ends .
Do a hospital clean job ,finger prints cause tracking . Use all new boots .
I'll go back to my standard,if your boots look so good would you hold it in your hand while I put a lethal 30k volts thru the center --no is usually the answer . I am just putting this in perspective most people can relate to . .
If your ignition on this truck is not right ,trying to trouble shoot it will be a nightmare ,start there .
The very next maint issue is changing VCTS for new design if yours are old .That never hurts but you need to clean engine first however you decide to do it .

 

Awesome write up Red Fish. I think all I need to find to order now is boots. Wondering which plug to go with?

 

The sp-515 's were flawed out-of-the-box in many cases causing many misfires, Ford did not announce replacing these plugs with the sp546, they just quietly did it . There is no question you should not use the sp-515, I have a box of them sitting here, I bought them before we discovered how flawed they were, I will never use them .
I suppose you pulled one of the plugs to check out the boots whether they were black or brown and whether you have the extended plug, yours was probably an early 2007 rather than a later 2007 new head design which would be a different plug .I forget the date on valve cover that is the dividing line .
The sp546 looks like a far better design and beefer .I never cut corners on ignition parts . It is not wise . The 515 had a blue weld at the junction that was a production error probably causing a break in internal porcelain--must have been the low bidder.
Treat these plugs like glass because they are . Start with fingers it should feel good and run almost all the way in if you did your cleaning properly . By all means use a torque wrench ,time after time we see loose plugs and damaged alum threads . No hurry doing them, after all they will last 60k. Use rubber socket and various extensions to get it right . No side loading on plugs . No power tools .

 

Best Catalytic Converter/pipe set i could find

Redfish You Sir are a B0$$. I'm thinking the 515s ain't worth nothin!!

Am i missing anything?


Also bought 2 more Bosch 15664 oxygen sensors that'll make a total of all 4 new. I wonder if I sustained any O2 sensor damage during the 2 different times I got the 8 time blinking service engine light? Anything I'm missing? Realized I probably could've bought 8 new coil pack boot springs

 

We are nothing special just old and gathering info to keep brain pan working .02's age and should be changed under maint around 100k to 125k .They do control a lot . I still have my cats and tranny at 197k . The older I get the more I realize how much I don't know.
Congrats on the miles you have ,I have had a to do a lot of work on mine . I never win anything either --just life at least I have won being 73 and most of my friends are gone so thats a big win and I can out work the rest that have survived at this point .

 

So coil pack broke whilst de installation, I'm looking to j.b. weld the thing together as the 2 metal strips aren't broke in the cracked peice? This c.o.p. is the closest to firewall on passenger side so I'll switch with c.o.p. from closest to radiator on driver side in case doesn't work will be easier to swap. Key Words: J.B.Weld

 

Every single tool i use for plug job
used 8 mm 1/4 drive socket and wrench to loosen battery terminals
used 10 mm 1/4 drive socket to remove pcm and the bracket
used 7 mm 1/4 drive socket for c.o.p. bolts
used funnel to get carb cleaner in tough cylinders so as to not dry out wires and plastics
used air chuck to clear socket holes of dirt and carb cleaner after plug loosed but before removing plug
used 9/16 in 3/8 drive socket tool from Amazon
flat head screwdriver to remove c.o.p. electric plug
Phillip's head to spread di electric grease inside c.o.p. boot inside spring
di electric grease inside c.o.p. boots
nickel anti seize on plugs
various combinations of the 3/8 drive extensions for each plug
the little ol magnet on a stick because I dropped a 7 mm screw in engine bay
surprisingly only took 4 hours start to finish, should take 3 hours next time

 

"di electric grease on anything that passed current" No-no


Dang this quick reply, never go check anything you lose all you have entered .
Well frugal Texan if jb welds work thats cool . But go easy on that dielectric grease it is an insulator not a conductive gel We used it on high voltage fiberglass booms on our bucket trucks to prevent tracking on boom , Its not good when dirty so we had to clean it off and reapply . If you are going to hot bond to 230000 volts you have to be careful . We had a bunch of procedures to make sure we didn't go up in flames . Dielectric grease tires to stop voltage from breaking down surface once it breaks down you get current flow .Not good on current carrying surfaces but a little won't hurt if accidental .
I only have one non oem cop it was a duralast guaranteed cop that I did while traveling .
I am aware there is a heater on pcv return to manifold to prevent freezing if below a certain temp . But my pcv is baffle in my valve cover which I cleaned when off . Filtered air enters on pass side and is vacuumed out on drivers side. If that air cold enough it would condense and freeze at choke point . Not likely in florida .
Have not fought the cat battle yet so let us know how it goes .Maybe keeping ignition good will prevent cat failures .