1967 F100 240 6-cylinder Hard to Restart after Driving
#1
1967 F100 240 6-cylinder Hard to Restart after Driving
I am having an issue with my 1967 Ford F100 240 6 cylinder that is getting worse. After driving it for a while and shutting it off, when it stalls out, it is REALLY hard to start. Once it sits for a period of time, it starts with no problem. Many posts say that it is due to the gas getting too hot. However, I was driving it the other day in 50 degree weather and I had the same issue after only driving for 10 minutes.
When trying to restart, the engine turns over fine. Also, as I mentioned earlier, the truck starts pretty good after sitting for a while.
Any ideas?
When trying to restart, the engine turns over fine. Also, as I mentioned earlier, the truck starts pretty good after sitting for a while.
Any ideas?
#2
Chris, is the ignition system the stock points and condenser? I'd suggest checking the spark quality under both a cold start condition when there doesn't seem to be a problem, and then also when experiencing trouble.
Pull the coil wire from the distributor and hold the terminal near the cylinder head about 3/8" away and see if the ignition coil is producing a good spark.
Pull the coil wire from the distributor and hold the terminal near the cylinder head about 3/8" away and see if the ignition coil is producing a good spark.
#4
Chris, is the ignition system the stock points and condenser? I'd suggest checking the spark quality under both a cold start condition when there doesn't seem to be a problem, and then also when experiencing trouble.
Pull the coil wire from the distributor and hold the terminal near the cylinder head about 3/8" away and see if the ignition coil is producing a good spark.
Pull the coil wire from the distributor and hold the terminal near the cylinder head about 3/8" away and see if the ignition coil is producing a good spark.
If nothing else you will rule out a no spark issue and need to look at a fuel issue at that point.
Fluff do the same because even new condensers could be crap.
When points & condensers were common it was said if the points looking good come time to replace them, no big deep craters, just change out the points and keep the condenser as it was working the best any of them could.
Both of you guys:
Now only do 1 fix at a time so you know what helped or did not or made it worst.
After checking for spark and if no spark fixing why or if spark check for fuel in the carb.
Remove the filter look down inside carb and move the throttle you should see fuel squirt.
I would also say replace ALL rubber fuel line from tank to carb. Most of the time there is a short piece from tank to hard line> hard line to fuel pump and maybe some where from pump to carb.
Don't say "it all looks good" as you can not tell it is bad "inside" where the gas is. I have also seen where they had cracks and would suck air but not leak fuel out.
Todays fuel eats the old rubber inside out.
Also check if the exh valve that closes to heat the intake manifold works. Sometimes they rust closed so they heat up the intake all the time and boil the fuel in the carb.
Should give you guys some things to check and report back what you find.
Dave ----
edit: also try removing the fuel tank cap. The vent in it could have rusted shut and the fuel pump cant pull fuel on a vacuum in the tank.
#6
#7
Trending Topics
#8
Exhaust Valve
Thanks for all the replies. After reading the replies and thinking about it for a while, I am thinking it may be the exhaust valve. There something under that carb that had a part fall off and doesn't seem to look right. Attached are a couple images.
Exhaust Valve?
Air cleaner placement
Exhaust Valve?
Air cleaner placement
#10
In response to the previous message:
- The more the merrier. I am glad you are adding input into the thread and asking questions. That is how we all learn.
- The exhaust valve thing was mentioned. No, it is not stuck, but it does have a part missing so I know that it is not working correctly. From what I can tell, it closes once the vehicle is warm. In my case, since it is not working, I think it is staying open and warming up the carb.
I do have a couple questions for others:
- What is that thing called that I have in the pictures above? When I do a search for Exhaust Valve, that mechanical piece does not show up.
- Does anyone know where I could see an image? That way I will be able to determine what is missing.
- The more the merrier. I am glad you are adding input into the thread and asking questions. That is how we all learn.
- The exhaust valve thing was mentioned. No, it is not stuck, but it does have a part missing so I know that it is not working correctly. From what I can tell, it closes once the vehicle is warm. In my case, since it is not working, I think it is staying open and warming up the carb.
I do have a couple questions for others:
- What is that thing called that I have in the pictures above? When I do a search for Exhaust Valve, that mechanical piece does not show up.
- Does anyone know where I could see an image? That way I will be able to determine what is missing.
#11
chris
yours looks just like mine. make sure that lever looking thing moves and is spring loaded. when cold, it will be towards the passenger fender and when it heats up it will be pulled towards the block
my coil looking spring the big one that expands,had shifted somehow and got under the one on that small shaft and was not opening. big difference on the way it runs now, much better. I always noticed when running a few miles it seemed really hot under the hood. I will bet that was the problem it definitely was not opening when I checked it yesterday. I will bet it starts better too, just now found this
thanks to fuzzface and *****
yours looks just like mine. make sure that lever looking thing moves and is spring loaded. when cold, it will be towards the passenger fender and when it heats up it will be pulled towards the block
my coil looking spring the big one that expands,had shifted somehow and got under the one on that small shaft and was not opening. big difference on the way it runs now, much better. I always noticed when running a few miles it seemed really hot under the hood. I will bet that was the problem it definitely was not opening when I checked it yesterday. I will bet it starts better too, just now found this
thanks to fuzzface and *****
#12