Late last year the stock 110 alt on my '04 split year went out. Closest I could get was from a mom and pop type store. I elected for the 135 amp model but all I could get was what they had and its a BBB reman under the name "Wilson" or something like that. It lasted about 2 weeks and the regulator went out. Only showing 13VDC at max. Replaced under warranty. Now the replacement, After getting serious about this truck and running scanners on it, Is showing the same. Batteries and FICM are taking a hard hit. Parts guy called me later after ordering one out of Dallas and said the one I have is for a factory dual alt setup where as I have a single but this is the one I was sold when I bought it and even had them install it as all my tools were at home 30 miles away. I checked the voltage with a DMM and everything agrees. Even had the chain stores check and sure enough, Bad regulator. Could it just be a bad batch they got or given it is for a "Factory dual alt setup", Without re-wiring the harness it will not work?

Next issue is CAC boots, If they're oily am I correct in thinking they're ripped somewhere and I'm losing boost because of it meaning they need replaced? I've got two that are oily as can be. Right at the compressor output and at the inter-cooler entry. Most boost I can ever build is 20 or so PSI. Not to mention, The compressor boot, The pipe is either slipping out or was never put in all the way.

Next is, A/C line below right side battery. The steel portion of the line is covered in some green slime substance. I'm no A/C guy but thats freon isn't? A/C still blows real cold and shows no sign of trouble.

If a delta of 15* or more means serious engine trouble, But "normal" EOT and ECT temp is around the 200 mark, What does it mean when if I'm doing 80 MPH through west Texas unloaded, Ambient is 60-65, My ECT is 188 and my EOT is 201-ish and at times reaching the 15* difference with the fan only running up 650 RPM area? However, If I keep her lower, The delta averages out around 10.

Thanks for the help. Theres some other things Forscan picked up but I'll address those later. The truck only has 48K miles on it but already acting and looking somehow like it has 148K... Trying to keep a catastrophic engine failure from occurring and very concerned about this thing.

 

I've harassed you about alternators enough, I won't go there again in this thread

Buy new CAC boots and clamps, once soaked through the OEMs are done for. It happens, I replaced mine circa 50k miles. A common issue is overfilling the oil increases the amount that comes out the CCV and soaks the boots faster. I started actually checking the hashes on the dipstick and only adding 14 quarts per change instead of the book 15 quart amount and my intake dried up significantly. Buy a bottle of HEET gas line antifreeze, and use that on a rag to clean off the oil and dirt from the turbo outlet (WEAR GLOVES, it's 98% methanol, HEET is just a cheap way to buy a small quantity). Then get some cheap hairspray and dope the inside of the boots before you install on the tube and the turbo or intercooler inlet. Best replacement boots IMO (don't forget to get new clamps):
https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/cac-i...oot-kit-03-07/
(This is just a hot side kit, if you have the metal driver's side cold pipe you can replace those also)

20psi of boost isn't abnormal being unloaded. High boost isn't always better, and unloaded typically you'll rev it high enough to have it shift before you max out the airflow, and in OD I hit the speed limiter before I run out of power. I have to work to get over 20psig from mine typically. I think the stock limiter was somewhere around 98, I have my SCT set somewhere from 95-98 IIRC, haven't checked in awhile.

Are the lines leaking at the accumulator or the pump? Or the metal to hose junctions in the lines? If the AC compressor isn't making noise yet, you might can get away with opening it up and resealing it, but if you've been losing a visible amount of oil the compressor might be hosed already.

Don't sweat the oil cooler yet. Yes, 15* is a warning point. No, it's probably not going to blow up on you. IMO it's not as bad as driving around on a 46V FICM with an alt putting out 12.5V. Check the ECT/EOT split going 65 instead of 80, if it stays under ~10 you can back-burner that problem for a bit. Long term you need to change to an ELC coolant, but as part of that switch there is a valve you can buy to backflush the oil cooler. There have been a couple of successful cases using aluminum cleaners as a soak and then backflushing the cooler - since you're borderline it might be a good option for you. Worst case you're out a hundred bucks on a tool and a few hours in an attempt to save~ $500. Your ECT at 188* is fine, but if it starts dropping into the 184-186* range you need to replace the t-stat. They suck for some reason, don't last more than a year or two for some people for some reason.

The thing is 14 years old, some of the stuff is just age related. Rubber gets hard, o-rings leak, it happens. Nothing is nearly catastrophic yet.

 

Oil is changed at the local dealer. Its literally the SAME cost if I purchase the material and do all the work or let them do it all while I watch. I check it after every time and its right at the full line. Good advice on boot replacement. But if I still have thread to go on the current clamps, Why do I need new ones? I've always had success on others if I still had thread to torque down with, It held and never had one come back. When I usually seen oily boots, It was from a tear. Never heard of oil actually soaking through the material. I'll add them to the parts bill.

Not too concerned about the boost issue honestly. But it had me wondering when I'd see posts about guys running upward of 30 pounds unloaded just ******* the engine when I thought I remember 20-ish being damn near full on a stock engine under load. Thought memory was failing more than I recalled.

As far as I can tell, Its just at the steel crimp to the hose. The entire steel portion is covered and a line all down the rubber hose to the compressor. No noise yet and runs great. Unknown how much if any real measurable amount of oil has been lost. Did put one of those aerosol can style mounted gauges on the low side and read full still.

Funny thing about that oil cooler.... Last year, When I acquired the truck and began resurrecting it from the dead, There was a well known, reputable shop in Spring, TX that was famous for diesel truck service. Spent $2K there for EVERY fluid flushed and changed,sway bushings changed, etc... At the time, The Ford gold was still in the block. It was factory original. And as we all know, It solidifies as it ages. They either did a conventional style flush or a quick dump and pump as I can still see solidified coolant in the bottom of the degas bottle leading me to believe the cooler is in fact clogged to a point. Oil temps never got to a concerning level from what I've read as being normal like 230 or so. It just stayed right around 200-205 Coolant stayed right at 188-191 the whole time. As soon as it hit 15 I would pull off and in about a minute, Literally, It cooled right back down. On average though, I see a 10 difference. Do you have a link to this backflush tool and where I can get a replacement degas cap? I try to source my OEM parts locally for quick turnaround in case of failure and its likely from a chain so I'm always close to a location if I'm on the road. Like my replacment FICM is from Napa so when I went to El Paso, if it went down, I could somewhat reasonably be close to a store for replacement.

And I agree about the age thing. She was abandoned for a few years basically before I acquired her. The paint is/was shot with dirt particles embedded in the clear coat and flakes peeling, Fluids broke down, Etc... Hell, The batteries are just over 5 years old and have been beaten, abused, neglected, and all that and still kicking though this winter will kill them for sure. 60* over night and I have a hard start/low voltage condition.

 

I prefer the design of the Riff Raff t-clamps without the springs, I tighten them with an impact and don't see the need of the spring plus a torque spec. I've never broken a Riff Raff clamp, and I have the originals with my old boots in the toolbox as a backup. Belt and suspenders on one of the things that can leave you stuck on the side of the road.

I'd just replace the line and refill it then. Check the orifice tube to make sure it's not packed with black stuff, that would be a bad sign. If there is any damage what's done is done, run it until the compressor is really dead. Could be a long time.

Two options here, the original "FixUr6" model and clones:
https://fixur6.com/p/description
https://www.xtremediesel.com/xdp-60l...UaAgHaEALw_wcB

And the accurate diesel one that claims to block flow to the EGR cooler when installed. From what I understand the FixUr6 model is designed for permanent installation and ease of repeated flushing, while the Accurate adaptor has to be removed to restore coolant flow through the loop but is better at backflushing because it blocks the EGR cooler and only goes backwards through the loop. I'm probably going to end up with this one:
https://www.accuratediesel.com/6-0l-...flush-kit.html

(EDIT: To be honeset, the FixUr6 model can apparently be screwed down to block EGR cooler flow, I just re-read the site because I haven't looked at these closely in awhile. Some of the chemical cleaning some people have done involves pouring directly into the cooler, so that model might actually be easier in terms of soaking the oil cooler then backflushing)

If you're ordering CAC boots, get a cap from Riff Raff at the same time. I think I have three or four at this point, I write the dates they come out on the sticker and keep them. I've never had one fail, I just replace during coolant changes. Habit from the old day of always changing the radiator cap, t-stat, and hoses together when dropping the coolant:
https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/degas...nt-bottle-cap/

 

The 15 degree target is unloaded, 60MPH, on a mild day. Towing, hot day, humidity, you may see a larger delta.
If you think you still have silicates hanging around from the Old Gold, do a Restore flush. It specifically targets silicates.
Some of the oil cooler clogging so common can be related to sand from the block casting. Coolant bypass filtration is the only help long term.
Get a new puke tank and cap from RockAuto so you can start fresh and watch for build up.
Then move to a decent coolant, even the cheap Rotella ELC at WalMart is OK, although IMO, Rotella Ultra ELC is the way to go.
RiffRaff boots are great, the hairspray method is correct.
I never saw more than about 22 or 23 lbs of boost ever in my 6.0 . That was a fresh turbo clean and check, and new booties.
Thermostats are a replacement item, they just don't last, Motorcraft or aftermarket.. I put in 4 between 03 and 16. Nothing I did helped.
Every 6.0 can benefit from bypass filtration as well, as long as I'm on the soapbox.
Right now, you can score a private label filter head and an AC Delco bypass filter for a TopKick for under 20.00. Tap off the oil cap, return to the oil fill cap. A 5 micron DIY bypass (if you shop carefully) can be had for less than 100.00 .

 

Sorry I didn't reply sooner. I'll check those out when I get a chance. Just replaced the alternator and both batteries. Unfortunately, Given what I have going on, $300 for a pair of batteries couldn't happen but the 5 year old heavily abused Motorcrafts just couldn't do it anymore. Found a 850 CCA Everstart Maxx at walmart for 93 each which would work. However, For some reason, Not one store close to me stocks them. Highest they go now is 750 and only the "Plus" version. $188 later, I have 2 new, sequential serial, load tested, batteries. FICM however is fluctuating between 46.5 and 47.5 constantly while usually staying right at 47. Already planning on exchanging it in the morning. Cleaned and greased all my connections so I know they're good.
For the CAC boots, If I get a chance at work I'll pull them off and inspect them for tears. If there isn't any, Then I'll clean them and keep a watch on them. Cash is tight right now and only critical items are being addressed. Next thing is fuel filters. I honestly don't remember the last time they were replaced. Theres $60 alone. Falling behind on bills already, have another truck I need to get running, and now this one decides it wants all my times and attention. Go figure. Since the temps are dropping, Delta and oil temps are staying behaved. Did catch my ECT was 186 for some reason. I do know I need to replace the degas cap tomorrow. Still running the 2003 OEM.
Concerning the EGR, For now, I just have the valve unplugged. Best I can do until cash becomes more plentiful. Of coarse I get 3 codes but no CEL Only issue I have is after replacing the batteries I now have a KAM error code. And I think the ECM is trying to relearn the VGT strategy or something as now, I can REALLY hear that turbo. Even at an idle where as before you couldn't. Not complaining especially since the wife loves the sound of a 6.0 turbo. And I'm on the stock tune but don't know the cal version as this truck has been reflashed since factory for other issues. I've also noticed, This FICM does a strange buzz test. It starts slow then speeds up where the OEM either warbled or had one speed. This truck is just strange....

 

You can use Racor fuel filters, even with shipping these should be cheaper than $60, and you can try sourcing the Racor PN instead of the Motorcraft one to save a few bucks. Racor was the OEm supplier:
https://www.dieselfiltersonline.com/...4-fd-4616.html

HEET or the 91% Isopropyl alcohol in the first aid section at Wal Mart will really cut through the oil on the boots and clean them up, and they should be a lot cheaper than solvents in the cleaning section. Dead serious about the hairspray, too. It works.

I use Everstart batteries, I've never had a set of Motorcrafts last more than three years so why pay a premium for a name? I think mine were 1000CCA, IDK for sure it was just what was on the shelf when I lost a cell in one.

 

I forgot Racor makes Motorcraft filters.... Thanks for the reminder. I believe you about the hairsprays, Lol. Stuff is volatile and slick. My old Motorcrafts lasted 5 years and were just abused to no end and kept coming back for more. They finally had enough last night. Highest Walmart sells for CCA now is 750 for some reason.... Their whole battery selection has gone to Hell really.