6 volt LED Headlights - My Version
#1
10-21-2018, 09:47 AM
6 volt LED Headlights - My Version
Allow me to begin by stating the vehicles I own and those I've had for the past eighteen years have all had modern headlights - HIDs mostly. Shoot, my little Lincoln has LEDs that follow the steering. Driving the old Ford with headlights that weren't much better than a pair of Zippos on the bumper wasn't cutting it anymore. Yes, I ran separate grounds and used relays mounted on the air deflectors. Yes, I used quality bulbs. And yes, I'm familiar with FMVSS, etc. so hopefully we can get past all that. And for those that complain about "They're too bright!" and "I'd like to take a hammer to all of 'em!" I've been driving with them for a month or so now and not once has anyone flashed me or complained. Actually, when at a stop light the beams are adjusted so the cut-off is at the top of the rear bumper of a Camry at 15' distance. And for any other lingering concerns my thought process is the old lights are way more dangerous than any concerns regarding these. So, moving right along... :-)
I began with changing over to Cibie 82440 headlamps with 60/55 halogen bulbs over a year ago. Added relays and grounds. Nothing to write home about, they wouldn't even scare the rabbits from my driveway at night. If it wasn't for the high beam indicator there was little way of knowing if the high or low beams were on. I toyed with the idea of going to a 12 volt system in order to get better lighting but the hassle and expense wasn't working for me, by the time I did that I'd be in for around $500. After more thinking (it takes me a while sometimes...) I came up with the idea of using step-up converters to increase the voltage to 12 volts and install LED bulbs. Using Amazon because they're easy to return if they didn't work, I bought two converters and two LED bulbs - http://tinyurl.com/y7jo8fjv and http://tinyurl.com/yapa7t37. Around $28 for the converters and $39 for the bulbs. The converters are rated for 3 amps (at 12 volts that's 36 watts) and the bulbs, being rated at 25 watts each, would require two converters. As it would occasionally happen one of the converters was DOA. Once I had the wiring completed I chanced running both lights through one converter and it worked! O.K., but for how long? Using a non-contact thermometer I kept watch over the converter's temperature for thirty minutes and it never went above ten degrees over ambient with the truck running and about twelve degrees with the truck not running (obviously they work a little harder when the voltage difference is greater.) So, I exchanged the DOA unit and I'm leaving the lamps running from one converter with the other riding alongside with quick-change plugs in case one decides to give up in the middle of nowhere. I could wire them each to their own lamp but for now this is what's working for me. I also bought one more to provide a way to charge my cell phone, I've been caught once with a dead phone and no way to charge it (not good for a First Responder.)
Anyway, these lights are fantastic. At 6500k they aren't noticeably blue, but nice, bright white with a great pattern and the high beams are super! The pattern is the --/ --/ type with a distinct cut-off. If you notice on the bulbs there is a shroud over the low beam LEDs. They prevent the LEDs from flooding the bottom of the lamp reflector and pushing light up into traffic's eyes. Be sure to mount them that way. What I also like about them is they appear normal, no halo rings, no goofy, hooky-boo LEDs scattered around the bulb, no black background, etc. I now wish I had taken before and after pics of the old and new light patterns but... maybe tonight I'll take a couple of the new. My back is a mess this morning and I can't guarantee I'll be feeling up to it. I'll try to do it soon.
Installing: The main thing to remember is these converters supply both positive and negative 12v connections - you CAN NOT attach its ground to the chassis of a positive ground vehicle! You will have to isolate the ground from the converter and connect it directly to the bulb ground and only the bulb ground! Four wires on the converter, red to positive supply, black (next to the red) to negative supply, yellow to lamp (load) positive and black (next to the yellow) to the lamp (load) negative (all clearly marked on the case.) I always use relays on headlights, especially when using ancient OEM or new Chinese switches and circuits. Shoot, I bought a NOS headlamp switch a couple years ago and the panel dimmer on it is still no better than junk. I had bought a handful of 6v relays a couple years ago for ~ $3/each (google: 6 volt mini ISO relay) so, originally contemplating using two converters, I installed four, one for each beam. Since I'm now using just one converter it could be done with just two relays - one for both high beams and one for both low beams. The directions below are for one converter and two relays. If you'd prefer to use two converters you'll have to double the instructions to allow. Personally, I'm using one and carrying a spare converter, just in case. I've also ordered another pair of bulbs, nothing like waiting a couple days for replacements when one burns out. I know, LEDs are supposed to be near-lifetime bulbs but I'm not quite signing on to that... ;-)
Wiring for POSITIVE GROUND trucks:
I installed my converters and relays near the headlights on the LH inner fender just behind the air deflector because it was near the lamps and the original wiring. You can do as you please but will have to make allowances. Things to remember: Going from positive to negative ground can be confusing at times. The red and black wires of the converter will seem backward, red going to 'ground' and black going to 'supply'. And just as you wrap your head around that you'll have to pay attention that the yellow will go to the positive (+) side of the bulbs, by way of the relays, and the other black, next to the yellow, has to go to the ground (-) side of the bulbs. Pay attention and walk away for a bit if you become flustered.
1) One fused (inline fuse holder, 10 amp should be plenty) wire from the battery terminal at the horn relay to the converter's BLACK wire. Leave this wire disconnected at the horn relay until the rest is completed. This supplies the negative side of the converter. Some may be concerned of a parasitic draw but I've left my truck sitting for over a week with no noticeable issue. Select an ignition switched supply if you have concerns. Doing so will switch off the headlights when the ignition is turned off but you also lose the ability to have headlights on without turning on the ignition. Parking lights will not be affected.
2) One wire from the voltage regulator mounting screw to the converter's RED wire. My thoughts for this is are 1) it's close by 2) if the regulator isn't grounded properly you have other issues. ;-) This supplies the positive side of the converter.
3) Yellow wire from the converter to #30 terminal of both relays. This will supply 12v positive to the headlights when the relay is switched 'on'.
4) Black wire from the converter (next to the yellow wire) goes directly to the negative side of both bulbs - DO NOT attach this wire to chassis ground! The negative side of each headlight bulb MUST be attached to this and NOT attached to the chassis or anything else. You will have to install a new wire to both as the original lights were grounded at the lamp (at least mine were.)
5) Now is a good time to label one relay 'L' for low beams and the other 'H' for high beams. Doesn't matter which is which - yet.
6) Find the wire that originally powered your low beams. You can find it nearby or trace it back from the headlight. There should be a connector nearby, I cut the connector out, you can do as you wish but the wire will need to be separated. The end that goes to the dimmer switch (toward the cab) goes to the low beam relay terminal #85. This will trigger the relay to close the low beam circuit. The end that goes to the bulbs attaches to terminal #87. This will supply power to the bulbs' low side.
7) Now it's time to do the same to the high beam wire. Attach the dimmer switch side to the high beam relay terminal #85 This will trigger the relay to close the high beam circuit. and the wire going to the bulbs to #87. This will supply power to the bulbs' high beam side.
8) Terminal #86 on both relays attach to chassis ground, NOT to either black wire from the converter! You can attach this to the voltage regulator mounting screw as well or splice into the wire you already ran there in step #2. These will provide grounds to close the relays when selected.
9) Relay terminals #87a are not used.
10) Double check your work and attach the wire at the horn relay when confident. If everything works as intended wait until dark and adjust the lamps.
Adjusting:
Spec' for low beams is typically 2" down and 2" to the right at a distance of 25'. In other words, measure the height of the center of the bulb to the ground. Move 25' ahead of the vehicle and adjust the center of the bright portion of the beam to be 2" below what was measured at the bulb. Horizontal positioning is a bit more tricky. Measure the same 25' from each headlight to a target and position the vehicle as straight as possible. Sighting from the target toward the center of the vehicle find the center of the grille, the ridge in the hood, etc. at the front and another spot further back, typically the stem of the interior rear view mirror. Make a mark on the ground and transfer up to the target. Measure the distance between the headlights, divide by two and mark your target each side of center. Adjust bright spot to two inches to the right of those marks. OR... the way I do it these days is park 25' squarely behind an average sized car and adjust vertical to be just below the trunk lid and the vertical portion of the left lamp's cut-off just to the right of the interior mirror. Measure the distance between the headlights and adjust the vertical portion of the right lamp's cut-off, to that distance, from the left lamp's vertical cut-off. That way I know I won't get any complaints.
I know this has been a long post but I'm thinking if anyone wants to duplicate what I've done this will make it as easy as I can. I have proofread this a few times and made corrections but if I've learned anything in life it's that I usually do my best proofreading after I click on 'Post Message'. If anyone catches something amiss I'm all about making corrections.
Cost (as described in instructions):
2 x 6 volt mini ISO relays $6
2 x Cibie headlamps $100 (today, on Amazon)
1 x LED bulb kit $39 "
1 x 6v/12v voltage converter $14 " (suggest picking up two though)
wiring, connectors, etc. On-hand, YMMV
Rough total $159
I began with changing over to Cibie 82440 headlamps with 60/55 halogen bulbs over a year ago. Added relays and grounds. Nothing to write home about, they wouldn't even scare the rabbits from my driveway at night. If it wasn't for the high beam indicator there was little way of knowing if the high or low beams were on. I toyed with the idea of going to a 12 volt system in order to get better lighting but the hassle and expense wasn't working for me, by the time I did that I'd be in for around $500. After more thinking (it takes me a while sometimes...) I came up with the idea of using step-up converters to increase the voltage to 12 volts and install LED bulbs. Using Amazon because they're easy to return if they didn't work, I bought two converters and two LED bulbs - http://tinyurl.com/y7jo8fjv and http://tinyurl.com/yapa7t37. Around $28 for the converters and $39 for the bulbs. The converters are rated for 3 amps (at 12 volts that's 36 watts) and the bulbs, being rated at 25 watts each, would require two converters. As it would occasionally happen one of the converters was DOA. Once I had the wiring completed I chanced running both lights through one converter and it worked! O.K., but for how long? Using a non-contact thermometer I kept watch over the converter's temperature for thirty minutes and it never went above ten degrees over ambient with the truck running and about twelve degrees with the truck not running (obviously they work a little harder when the voltage difference is greater.) So, I exchanged the DOA unit and I'm leaving the lamps running from one converter with the other riding alongside with quick-change plugs in case one decides to give up in the middle of nowhere. I could wire them each to their own lamp but for now this is what's working for me. I also bought one more to provide a way to charge my cell phone, I've been caught once with a dead phone and no way to charge it (not good for a First Responder.)
Anyway, these lights are fantastic. At 6500k they aren't noticeably blue, but nice, bright white with a great pattern and the high beams are super! The pattern is the --/ --/ type with a distinct cut-off. If you notice on the bulbs there is a shroud over the low beam LEDs. They prevent the LEDs from flooding the bottom of the lamp reflector and pushing light up into traffic's eyes. Be sure to mount them that way. What I also like about them is they appear normal, no halo rings, no goofy, hooky-boo LEDs scattered around the bulb, no black background, etc. I now wish I had taken before and after pics of the old and new light patterns but... maybe tonight I'll take a couple of the new. My back is a mess this morning and I can't guarantee I'll be feeling up to it. I'll try to do it soon.
Installing: The main thing to remember is these converters supply both positive and negative 12v connections - you CAN NOT attach its ground to the chassis of a positive ground vehicle! You will have to isolate the ground from the converter and connect it directly to the bulb ground and only the bulb ground! Four wires on the converter, red to positive supply, black (next to the red) to negative supply, yellow to lamp (load) positive and black (next to the yellow) to the lamp (load) negative (all clearly marked on the case.) I always use relays on headlights, especially when using ancient OEM or new Chinese switches and circuits. Shoot, I bought a NOS headlamp switch a couple years ago and the panel dimmer on it is still no better than junk. I had bought a handful of 6v relays a couple years ago for ~ $3/each (google: 6 volt mini ISO relay) so, originally contemplating using two converters, I installed four, one for each beam. Since I'm now using just one converter it could be done with just two relays - one for both high beams and one for both low beams. The directions below are for one converter and two relays. If you'd prefer to use two converters you'll have to double the instructions to allow. Personally, I'm using one and carrying a spare converter, just in case. I've also ordered another pair of bulbs, nothing like waiting a couple days for replacements when one burns out. I know, LEDs are supposed to be near-lifetime bulbs but I'm not quite signing on to that... ;-)
Wiring for POSITIVE GROUND trucks:
I installed my converters and relays near the headlights on the LH inner fender just behind the air deflector because it was near the lamps and the original wiring. You can do as you please but will have to make allowances. Things to remember: Going from positive to negative ground can be confusing at times. The red and black wires of the converter will seem backward, red going to 'ground' and black going to 'supply'. And just as you wrap your head around that you'll have to pay attention that the yellow will go to the positive (+) side of the bulbs, by way of the relays, and the other black, next to the yellow, has to go to the ground (-) side of the bulbs. Pay attention and walk away for a bit if you become flustered.
1) One fused (inline fuse holder, 10 amp should be plenty) wire from the battery terminal at the horn relay to the converter's BLACK wire. Leave this wire disconnected at the horn relay until the rest is completed. This supplies the negative side of the converter. Some may be concerned of a parasitic draw but I've left my truck sitting for over a week with no noticeable issue. Select an ignition switched supply if you have concerns. Doing so will switch off the headlights when the ignition is turned off but you also lose the ability to have headlights on without turning on the ignition. Parking lights will not be affected.
2) One wire from the voltage regulator mounting screw to the converter's RED wire. My thoughts for this is are 1) it's close by 2) if the regulator isn't grounded properly you have other issues. ;-) This supplies the positive side of the converter.
3) Yellow wire from the converter to #30 terminal of both relays. This will supply 12v positive to the headlights when the relay is switched 'on'.
4) Black wire from the converter (next to the yellow wire) goes directly to the negative side of both bulbs - DO NOT attach this wire to chassis ground! The negative side of each headlight bulb MUST be attached to this and NOT attached to the chassis or anything else. You will have to install a new wire to both as the original lights were grounded at the lamp (at least mine were.)
5) Now is a good time to label one relay 'L' for low beams and the other 'H' for high beams. Doesn't matter which is which - yet.
6) Find the wire that originally powered your low beams. You can find it nearby or trace it back from the headlight. There should be a connector nearby, I cut the connector out, you can do as you wish but the wire will need to be separated. The end that goes to the dimmer switch (toward the cab) goes to the low beam relay terminal #85. This will trigger the relay to close the low beam circuit. The end that goes to the bulbs attaches to terminal #87. This will supply power to the bulbs' low side.
7) Now it's time to do the same to the high beam wire. Attach the dimmer switch side to the high beam relay terminal #85 This will trigger the relay to close the high beam circuit. and the wire going to the bulbs to #87. This will supply power to the bulbs' high beam side.
8) Terminal #86 on both relays attach to chassis ground, NOT to either black wire from the converter! You can attach this to the voltage regulator mounting screw as well or splice into the wire you already ran there in step #2. These will provide grounds to close the relays when selected.
9) Relay terminals #87a are not used.
10) Double check your work and attach the wire at the horn relay when confident. If everything works as intended wait until dark and adjust the lamps.
Adjusting:
Spec' for low beams is typically 2" down and 2" to the right at a distance of 25'. In other words, measure the height of the center of the bulb to the ground. Move 25' ahead of the vehicle and adjust the center of the bright portion of the beam to be 2" below what was measured at the bulb. Horizontal positioning is a bit more tricky. Measure the same 25' from each headlight to a target and position the vehicle as straight as possible. Sighting from the target toward the center of the vehicle find the center of the grille, the ridge in the hood, etc. at the front and another spot further back, typically the stem of the interior rear view mirror. Make a mark on the ground and transfer up to the target. Measure the distance between the headlights, divide by two and mark your target each side of center. Adjust bright spot to two inches to the right of those marks. OR... the way I do it these days is park 25' squarely behind an average sized car and adjust vertical to be just below the trunk lid and the vertical portion of the left lamp's cut-off just to the right of the interior mirror. Measure the distance between the headlights and adjust the vertical portion of the right lamp's cut-off, to that distance, from the left lamp's vertical cut-off. That way I know I won't get any complaints.
I know this has been a long post but I'm thinking if anyone wants to duplicate what I've done this will make it as easy as I can. I have proofread this a few times and made corrections but if I've learned anything in life it's that I usually do my best proofreading after I click on 'Post Message'. If anyone catches something amiss I'm all about making corrections.
Cost (as described in instructions):
2 x 6 volt mini ISO relays $6
2 x Cibie headlamps $100 (today, on Amazon)
1 x LED bulb kit $39 "
1 x 6v/12v voltage converter $14 " (suggest picking up two though)
wiring, connectors, etc. On-hand, YMMV
Rough total $159
Last edited by CBeav; 10-21-2018 at 09:56 AM. Reason: more proofreading :-)
#2
10-21-2018, 01:08 PM
#5
10-21-2018, 02:48 PM
Senior User
#6
10-21-2018, 03:44 PM
#7
10-21-2018, 05:49 PM
Rulings and findings re: complaints on glare
The rules and regulations are slow on catching up to new technologies, but the complaints are not. It should be noted that just because you don't get flashed, don't be led into a false sense of confidence that nobody is complaining. This is a good read from the beginning.
https://one.nhtsa.gov/cars/rules/rulings/glare.html
The rules and regulations are slow on catching up to new technologies, but the complaints are not. It should be noted that just because you don't get flashed, don't be led into a false sense of confidence that nobody is complaining. This is a good read from the beginning.
https://one.nhtsa.gov/cars/rules/rulings/glare.html
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