82 F-250 Carburetor/fuel problem
#1
82 F-250 Carburetor/fuel problem
The Truck is an 82 F-250, 110000 miles. Sat for 3+ years. Replaced the fuel filter on the Carburetor when I bought it and ran out old gas to get it running (not much in the tank). It had a fuel leak around the carburetor. before I could change the fuel line (rubber hose portion old and cracked) and throttle pump diaphragm (leaked) I had a fire. I replaced the fuel filter, throttle pump diaphragm, throttle solenoid, some vacuum lines, fixed a couple of electrical wires. I changed the Rotor cap and adapter, as well as spark plug wires. It has new airfilters. It starts up great (having to get used to the old carburetor pumping) and runs to warm up. I get about a mile to 3 miles down the road and above 45 miles an hour and it starts acting like it is running out of fuel, but if I slow down to 45 it will generally smooth out and run, when I try to go back up to 55+ it will start the "bucking and snorting" all over again. I have not rebuilt the carburetor yet, but plan on doing that. Is there something else I need to look at?
#2
#5
#6
The symptoms you describe point towards a fuel delivery issue and may even be unrelated to the fire as such, if the carb hasn't been rebuilt, the fuel pump checked out, etc. Old dogs get pretty ornery for a while when woken up. Make sure everything is straight all the way back to the tank. For example, that even the fuel tank itself is venting properly through the cap. If it builds up a vacuum the pump cannot supply enough fuel. Measure the fuel pump pressure at idle at the carb inlet. This is important. Too much fuel pump pressure it will flood, too little and it will cutout at highway speeds just like you describe. Mechanic's vacuum gauges also measure fuel pump pressure, and you want one of these anyway. Under $20 and one of the best tools you can own.
Anything that has sat for a long time and esp. when carburetor is in unknown condition should be disassembled and cleaned up, new needle & seat, check float for leaks, set float height correct and install new gaskets and all new hoses in the line. Probably don't have to tell you to keep a fire extinguisher handy either!
Anything that has sat for a long time and esp. when carburetor is in unknown condition should be disassembled and cleaned up, new needle & seat, check float for leaks, set float height correct and install new gaskets and all new hoses in the line. Probably don't have to tell you to keep a fire extinguisher handy either!
#7
We rebuilt the carburetor changed rubber fuel lines and in-line fuel filter from rear tank to transfer pump. Ran fine for about 24 miles. I turned on the cruise control and within a mile it started bucking and jumping. As long as we stay under 45 it seems to run ok, when we get above it starts the bucking and acting like it is starved of fuel. We have shut it off twice to see if something would reset, but did not work. Any ideas?
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#8
What's the fuel pump pressure again? Check both pressure and volume are in spec. Fuel height in bowl in particular must be correct at all times under all conditions as the carburetor flow rates & even AFR is calibrated on this. Ever notice it's easier to get a siphon started on a full container versus a near empty one? Same principle.
#11
First make sure your pump is fine. After that you might want to check out your electronic ignition box on the driver's inner fender.
Those are old school solid state devices and are known to overheat. Yours either could have worn out naturally, been damaged by the fire indirectly, or is just overheating as you try to run it down the road.
If changing your fuel pump doesn't fix the problem, put some washers between the inner fender and the box so it has better airflow. If it still has problems, get a new box (expect to pay $30-35).
Those are old school solid state devices and are known to overheat. Yours either could have worn out naturally, been damaged by the fire indirectly, or is just overheating as you try to run it down the road.
If changing your fuel pump doesn't fix the problem, put some washers between the inner fender and the box so it has better airflow. If it still has problems, get a new box (expect to pay $30-35).
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