Fuel and oil sending units
#1
10-17-2018, 08:21 AM
Fuel and oil sending units
hey yall!
Two part issue here both going back to my gauges.
1st, pretty sure O’Reilly sold me a 19gal sending unit rather than a 16.5 a few months back, but I can’t find a receipt so I’m trying to make it work. It’s already installed, 10 gal of fuel is in the tank and I’m getting a signal at the unit (test light flashes and guage sweeps when grounded) but when I put the connector to the sender it barely moves the guage. -so I figure it’s the wrong sender. Anyone know if a 19 gal sender should/could/would behave this way?
1980 F150 short bed 302
Next, I’m not getting a signal from my oil pressure sender wire, tested the wiring back up to the firewall and nothing; is the gauge me most likely culprit?
Two part issue here both going back to my gauges.
1st, pretty sure O’Reilly sold me a 19gal sending unit rather than a 16.5 a few months back, but I can’t find a receipt so I’m trying to make it work. It’s already installed, 10 gal of fuel is in the tank and I’m getting a signal at the unit (test light flashes and guage sweeps when grounded) but when I put the connector to the sender it barely moves the guage. -so I figure it’s the wrong sender. Anyone know if a 19 gal sender should/could/would behave this way?
1980 F150 short bed 302
Next, I’m not getting a signal from my oil pressure sender wire, tested the wiring back up to the firewall and nothing; is the gauge me most likely culprit?
#2
10-17-2018, 11:18 AM
If the sender either 16 or 19 is sitting on empty then it will not move the gauge also.
Any way to pull the sender out and bench test it?
That oil gauge you said tested back to the cluster I think?
You need to see at the gauge if you have power both on the out put and in put side.
If no power on the in side of gauge you need to trace it back to the ICVR to see why the power is not getting to the gauge.
Dave - - - -
Any way to pull the sender out and bench test it?
That oil gauge you said tested back to the cluster I think?
You need to see at the gauge if you have power both on the out put and in put side.
If no power on the in side of gauge you need to trace it back to the ICVR to see why the power is not getting to the gauge.
Dave - - - -
#3
10-18-2018, 09:04 PM
Dropped the tank and replaced the sender today. It was the wrong part number, so imagine that, put the right part in and it works like it should.
In the mean time I’ve got a 19 gallon sender for sale if anyone needs one.
Tomorrow I’ve got to install a new speedometer cable so I’ll see if I can track down the oil sender gauge issue
In the mean time I’ve got a 19 gallon sender for sale if anyone needs one.
Tomorrow I’ve got to install a new speedometer cable so I’ll see if I can track down the oil sender gauge issue
#4
10-18-2018, 09:57 PM
Does your truck have a temperature gauge or an idiot light?
If you have the temperature gauge, you can use that to troubleshoot the oil pressure gauge circuit. The temperature, oil pressure, and fuel gauges are the same electrically. The only difference is label on the face. So I'm assuming (Danger! Danger!) your temperature gauge is indicating correctly. If so, this means that circuit has a known-good sender and gauge.
Use a pair of long test leads to swap the connections for the oil pressure and temperature senders. Your suspect oil pressure sender is now connected to the known-good temperature gauge. Your known-good temperature sender is connected to the suspect oil pressure gauge.
Start the engine and watch the gauges. The temp gauge should quickly drive to the middle, as it is actually showing oil pressure. The oil pressure gauge should slowly increase, as it is actually showing coolant temperature. By observing the temporarily cross-wired gauges, you can quickly determine what's wrong with the oil pressure circuit.
If you have the temperature gauge, you can use that to troubleshoot the oil pressure gauge circuit. The temperature, oil pressure, and fuel gauges are the same electrically. The only difference is label on the face. So I'm assuming (Danger! Danger!) your temperature gauge is indicating correctly. If so, this means that circuit has a known-good sender and gauge.
Use a pair of long test leads to swap the connections for the oil pressure and temperature senders. Your suspect oil pressure sender is now connected to the known-good temperature gauge. Your known-good temperature sender is connected to the suspect oil pressure gauge.
Start the engine and watch the gauges. The temp gauge should quickly drive to the middle, as it is actually showing oil pressure. The oil pressure gauge should slowly increase, as it is actually showing coolant temperature. By observing the temporarily cross-wired gauges, you can quickly determine what's wrong with the oil pressure circuit.
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