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So, I was trying to install an EGT probe in my 2003 Excursion 7.3 today and the $@#!@ Dewalt Cobalt drill bits I bought new for the job broke in the manifold. I went nice and slowly but the 2nd bit I used broke clean at the surface of the manifold and I tried to pull it out/push it in - no dice. I finally tried to drill it out but drilling a cobalt bit against the manifold metal was a very bad idea - hole is now screwed up. Yep, I made a good old mess of things. <- that is the bad news
this is the good news. --->Time to get a new driver's side exhaust manifold!!
Any suggestions on manifold upgrades, or should I just go OEM Ford? Price isn't really an issue (within reason). I don't mind spending a few hundred on Ford OEM. Also thinking about having a local shop tow it and just give them the work because manifold bolts are such PITAs and usually break. Any sage advice from smarter wrenchers than me? Take it to an indy shop or Ford dealer, or tackle it myself (nice and slowly with lots of PB blaster?)
Sometimes those new aggressive drill bits cut to much for jobs like this. Are you sure the hole is not going to work once you tap it? At any rate, I'd look for an OEM manifold.
I may try to keep drilling tomorrow but the broken bit is causing the size R bit to jutter around as I drill, essentially hogging out the hole. Now I'm starting to thing bellowed up pipes, 4" downpipe and RiffRaff intake plenum while I am in there but that means I need to do the other side as well. Maybe best to just replace the manifold.
I do like those headers. Somebody was paying attention to the firing order. If you go with those I'd like to hear your impressions.
But I can't help think that is a .50 caliber solution to a .32 caliber problem.The header is cast iron and pretty easy to weld. I'd suggest find a good local muffler shop to fill it for $50 cash, then drill again nearby. Exact placement is not critical. But maybe it is worse than it sounds. A pic of the damage might help diagnosis.
Just tossing out the low dollar, get on down the road perspective.
Cast iron should be drilled with bits cut to the "proper" angle or you will get that result very easily. You probably know this but you really need to drill progressively large pilot holes to get to your finished size. As I have already learned - the hard way as usual.
Hey guys, thanks a LOT for all of the suggestions! Here are a few pictures that show the actual damage. In one picture, I circle the broken and stuck drill bit and in the other I have an arrow pointing to it. Problem is that the drill be is broken "flush" with the manifold (so nothing to grab onto to pull it out) and it goes up about 1/4 or 1/2 of the way through the manifold. I can't tap the hole because the drill bit is too hard for the tap to bite into. Basically, I'm screwed. I had a really good yell yesterday but today I am just getting comfortable with the fact that the truck is just asking for new manifolds . I have a shop about 1 mile down the road (general/indy shop) and the owner is going to tow the truck in tomorrow and take a look at it to see if he can fix it. I don't want to drive the truck because 1) there is a huge hole in the manifold and 2) the drill bit might come loose in heat soaking/suction of the exhaust and go up and break the turbo, adding to damage/cost.
I think I am just going to ask the shop to put in OEM motorcraft manifold, gaskets and new bolts. What a bit PITA!!
Here are can see I circled where the drill bit broke and is lodged/stuck Here is an arrow pointing to the stuck bit. Man, could it have broken any worse?
Something like this...
You can’t get a small 90* needle nose pliers and pull the bit out then weld a piece of exhaust pipe cut in half…already tapped of course over the holes?
10-12-2018, 06:10 PM
. I have a shop about 1 mile down the road (general/indy shop) and the owner is going to tow the truck in tomorrow and take a look at it to see if he can fix it. I don't want to drive the truck because 1) there is a huge hole in the manifold and 2) the drill bit might come loose in heat soaking/suction of the exhaust and go up and break the turbo, adding to damage/cost. 
