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Hey all, I just finished up suspension and brake work on my 79 swb it has a 4 speed OD. I bought some new clutch linkages and adjust it the best I could. It's been in the garage for a few months and I wanted move it out. I had it started the other day and it sounded like my throw out bearing was adjusted too close to the disc. PO said the clutch only has 30k miles on it and when I got it it had a hard time getting into 1st and the clutch grabbed right off the floor. So when I put in the linkages I adjusted it as tight as I could.
This leads me to today , I backed out the adjusted to a approx what feels like 3/4" ish... I went to start it and it was sluggish and tried to move.. whoa there. I went back under and moved the clutch in once, still grabbing on the second try it bound up... so I backed it out. Still binding. Checked the linkages and the mount everything looks ok. I work it slowly pulling out the rod seal and carpet and it's still binds to the point that the adjustment rod fell out and the fork finally popped back..
what are your thoughts? Bad throw out bearing? Did I lose a finger on the disc? Or is the throw out bearing just stuck on the shaft from sitting. ??
Not sure what you mean ? but the way you adjust a clutch is by taking the spring off and adjusting the rod till the throwout bearing touches the the clutch fingers. Then you back the adjustment off about 1/4". You don't adjust it to where you think the pedal should be, that has nothing to do with adjusting a clutch.
I understand what you're saying. When I adjusted it like you said , the vehicle moved in gear when the clutch was in. I was unable to shift gears. So i adjusted the clutch so the freeplay in the pedal had about 3/4 " .. but the problem now is the throw out bearing or the pressure plate are binding.
Messing around with it today it's not the linkage the fork is getting jammed up I don't know if it's the throw out bearing on the shaft or what? Anybody have any ideas I really don't want to pull his tranny down if I don't have to
You've been having clutch issues since you got the truck? Unless I personally know the sellers, I take any claims they provided on age of parts with a grain of salt... If they also put 30k miles on the clutch with it adjusted too tight, there could be some odd or accelerated wear on the clutch disc or pressure plate.
I get ya, but it was functioning ok prior , this is not an issue of mis adjusted clutch. Can the throw out bearing stick or bind on the input bearing sleeve? Clutch kit is only 80 bucks but it's the amount of work too get to it. I'm running out of interest...
If a clutch job makes you lose interest that easily a mechanical clutch isn't for you. My best guess is your clutch fork is cracked and bent, normally caused by a sticky TOB.
I have another project im itching to get to. I was seriously considering swapping in a c4 or 6 2wd and dumping this manual , the shifter is awful 4 speed OD I just fixed the shifter nar added a reverse light switch. . Then this happened. Is it possible to remove the fork though the bell without dropping the trans? I see the 2 bolts holding the pivot at least is this is known I'd know I'm on the right track.
I have another project im itching to get to. I was seriously considering swapping in a c4 or 6 2wd and dumping this manual , the shifter is awful 4 speed OD I just fixed the shifter nar added a reverse light switch. . Then this happened. Is it possible to remove the fork though the bell without dropping the trans? I see the 2 bolts holding the pivot at least is this is known I'd know I'm on the right track.
Yes the fork can be pulled, however it's a real PITA to get it back in.
I pulled the fork, and my throw out bearing is in 2 pieces.. I've already started pulling the trans. Im going to leave the bell for now and try to figure out what happened.. initial inspection looks like the pressure plate diaphragm fingers might have a notch in them from the TO bearing, might explain the binding..
The TO bearing is completely destroyed... I'm guessing this throw out bearing retainer is garbage also??? Theres a good notch in it. Is there anything special about these 4 speed OD retainers or are the common across the manual units??
Can I also assume the clutch and pressure plate are garbage also? They are not original. The truck only has 80k miles on it. I know it was replaced. I wish I could think of a theory as to why this failed... I wonder if PO only changed the clutch and pressure plate???
That is a lot of wear for sure! Someone improperly installed the transmission and broke the TOB and it ran like that for a while. The input sleeve is very cheap new Sleev
Is that retainer the same as mine? I have a rug 4 speed OD aka toploader imposter ect... not even sure if this is original trans as therecwas no provision for the reverse switch.. I'm also going to need a rear input seal.
The TO bearing is completely destroyed... I'm guessing this throw out bearing retainer is garbage also??? Theres a good notch in it. Is there anything special about these 4 speed OD retainers or are the common across the manual units??
Can I also assume the clutch and pressure plate are garbage also? They are not original. The truck only has 80k miles on it. I know it was replaced. I wish I could think of a theory as to why this failed... I wonder if PO only changed the clutch and pressure plate???
Is that retainer the same as mine? I have a rug 4 speed OD aka toploader imposter ect... not even sure if this is original trans as therecwas no provision for the reverse switch.. I'm also going to need a rear input seal.
Sorry I assumed you had the NP435. Just get yourself a SKF speedi sleeve and repair it.
10-10-2018, 07:33 PM
